Checking out a 66 300

So far everything has worked as advertised. I'm deep into the transmission but that was just to cure a leak and do a few other things. I'm hoping to finish up the work next week.
 
WOW , that is a really nice score.
One thing I have to say is STOP putting stuff on the paint you just had cut and buffed. Even that cardboard will pick up sharp little rocks and such. I use cheap Yoga matts on the fenders whenever I work on my car and it's nowhere near as nice as yours.
 
WOW , that is a really nice score.
One thing I have to say is STOP putting stuff on the paint you just had cut and buffed. Even that cardboard will pick up sharp little rocks and such. I use cheap Yoga matts on the fenders whenever I work on my car and it's nowhere near as nice as yours.

Noted. Finished up all the work I did. Nothing is quite as scarey as cranking her up for the first time after a carb rebuild and shift kit install. I followed all the directions to the letter and I was still super worried I messed something up. The only thing so far was I messed up the float settings and flooded the carb. Also I smoked out the block with some super rich exhaust until I figured it all out. It's still not quite staring right when cold. I still need to check the fast idle setting. With no tach it's not easy. An inductive tach is on the way.

Any pointer are gladly taken setting a carb up post rebuild.
 
I must say I've been thoroughly enjoying driving the car. I've done nothing but basic maintenance to her. She lights right up and now that I've got the cold idle set up and timing set correctly I'm good to go. My last tank of gas I got around 14 mpg. I've been doing more highway driving now so I'm interested to see if it improves.
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Replaced the drivers side motor mount. It was just toast. Next up I'd like to replace my exhaust gaskets.

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Great news indeed, they are an amazing car to drive arent they ! . Could you explain how you set up the cold idle , its something weve had trouble with after having the carb rebuikt . CAP carbs have a different set up again in 66s
 
Great news indeed, they are an amazing car to drive arent they ! . Could you explain how you set up the cold idle , its something weve had trouble with after having the carb rebuikt . CAP carbs have a different set up again in 66s

I took the air cleaner off and ensured the motor was ice cold. Then I adjusted the screw until it contacted the step fastest step of the idle cam and I went about a 1/2 turn more. Looking over the FSM I should have started with the second step but it worked for me. I'm not sure about CAP carbs but I can send you shots of it from my FSM. It might idle at too high and I may adjust it down a bit she warms up fast.
 
Anyone have a suggestion for which adapter to use on a motive power bleeder? I'm thinking the universal round bleeder would work well enough. I'm going through the brakes right now and replacing the hoses.
 
Slowly getting the car ready for its Sniper EFI transition. In the last month I've replaced all the ball joints and tie rod ends....fun jobs indeed. Then over Christmas, I replaced the old single field alternator with a dual field and solid state voltage regulator. Almost the easiest upgrade I've ever done. No more dimming lights and my ameter stays dead in the center for the most part.

Also during Christmas I tossed in a pertronix igniter 3 and flamethrower coil. Wow what a difference. The car feels really snappy now. Don't mind the ballast resistor in the pics, I just got rid of the resistor and put a wire in between he terminals to keep a stock looking appearence.

Maybe soon I'll get the sniper installed. Kids and work equal not much playtime in the garage.

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I trimmed the VR slightly and mounted it where the torision bars are. It's clean and easy. I made an extra ground just in case too.
 
Got around to pulling the rear seats for a cleaning and also to track down the build sheet. The sheet was of course right where it should've been. No surprises on it other than "show car" in the remarks. Anyone know what that meant?

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Probably built for a car show like the Detroit Auto Show, and was probably better than the average car as it would have been gone over beforehand, not just out the factory door.

Ha that would be cool to know, but I'd never find that out.
 
I tackled the rust issue in my fuel tank this weekend. I found some very fine rust in my carb when I rebuilt it and also in my fuel filter. Not knowing (or just hoping to not have to drop the tank) I replaced all the fuel lines. Well of course that didn't work but at least I have new lines. I bit the bullet and bought the CR20b from spectra.

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Overhead shot of the two tanks. Like everyone says it is a tad bit longer. I was able to make it work though. I rolled the edges of the tank at the rear and front. I don't have any pictures of that. I was even able to use the old tank straps and J bolts. I cleaned them up real good though.

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There was some nasty nasty stuff in that tank so I'm really glad I did it. Now I have to fill her up and enjoy a functional gas gauge.
 
The old tank also looks wider, is it not?
 
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