Perfect!
Convertible Fury - 1970
- Thread starter Jeff
- Start date
Is there a set screw down in the small hole on the seat adjuster knob? There was a phillips screw in the large hole and I thought the knob would come right off, but it is stuck fast. It looks like there might be a flat head set screw down in the small hole, but I can't see it well and can't get a purchase on it with a screwdriver.
Is white lithium grease the way to go for seat tracks?
Allen head set screw.
I can't get that damn knob off, and I don't want to break it. I think it must be glued on. I don't see any fasteners in those two holes. I wanted to remove it so I could have the seat tracks tanked. Do you know if there are any plastic parts inside the tracks? If so, I won't hot tank it and won't have to remove the knob.
The hole in the center is where the set screw should be. The other hole is just a hole.
It looks like the screw is still in there, just all messed up. You might end up drilling it out.
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It looks like the screw is still in there, just all messed up. You might end up drilling it out.
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OK, you're saying there should be a second screw under the one I already removed from that larger hole? BTW, the depth of that hole is greater than the distance from the surface of the knob to the metal piece that goes into the knob. In other words, the screw I removed would have gone through the metal, assuming the metal continues in a straight line. That's why it seems like it is glued on. I'll probably just abandon the idea of tanking the track and clean it up with the knob on. Appreciate the help though.
No, there shouldn't be another screw. It just looked like it in the pic.
In that case, just give it a knock with a soft mallet.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
And they are better than the original
To rebuild the one you have, check about a quarter of the way down this page.
Thanks for that link. I am using a variant of it to make the repair. Instead of glassing the whole front, I am using fiberglass cloth and epoxy to patch the back. I used the aluminum tape on the front to get it lined up and stable. The second picture shows one patch saturated with epoxy and another that is still dry. The epoxy I used is too thick and didn't flow well through the weave. I need to use a different formula for the remaining patches.
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Here are a few more pics of the fiberglass patching. It worked very well, and I recommend it. The cracks are barely visible on the good side and the panel is now much more rigid. I ended up sticking with the thicker epoxy and I think it is the way to go because thinner, laminating epoxy might run through the cracks and ruin the good side. The aluminum tape was also easy to remove. I thought the epoxy might stick to it along the cracks but it did not. Thanks to Bill for jogging my memory about fiberglass.
coming along nicely. Thanks for documenting your build
That worked out really well, the cracks have pretty well disappeared.
Why is there a rubber washer here? It was present on several of my seat belt assemblies. How hard to you torque down seat belt bolts? It seems like there needs to be a little bit of room so the metal part of the belt can move.
Fratzog
Old Man with a Hat
Holy smokes! Where were these 15 years ago when I was gluing together the old piece on Nessie?
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
You were a pioneer Fred
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