Critters other mistress..1970 Plymouth Fury 3
- Thread starter CanCritter
- Start date
CanCritter
Senior Member
pluggin away here...down to dungeon 9ish and roll back out 7or 8pm everyday...gittin at it while the gittins good...
waiting on some parts and waterpump..should show tomorrow...also been waiting a week now for local PPG to match my paint...car was repainted in 93 but with what no clue so that's holding me up a tad as well...
also got the broken waterpump bolt out...lucked out there for shure...
was sittin and thinkin on how to go about fixing my lower front valance..
bolts were seized on one side and valance was rotten...oh what to do..
anyway am sittin at my comp and my screen saver is flippin through my build pics and l see this...
thinkin to myself whoa there...lve forgotten l had another stashed away..to cool...only ones l could find were north of ridiculous so bounus....went down to the dungeon and tracked it down...right on
Well l spent a good part of the aft cleanin that puppy up and down to bare metal...put the two lower valances side by side to check for diffrences and volia...
top is 71...lower 70...suspect l can make the 71 fit with a slight modification of the center support...just gona be my driver so don't care if its not exact
looked to have been b5 blue....wonder what happen to rest of car...
Also trying to fix up a set of gear style caps on the cheap...blew the budget on the last set and have a bunch of spares to try on..
so far....
waiting on some parts and waterpump..should show tomorrow...also been waiting a week now for local PPG to match my paint...car was repainted in 93 but with what no clue so that's holding me up a tad as well...
also got the broken waterpump bolt out...lucked out there for shure...
was sittin and thinkin on how to go about fixing my lower front valance..
bolts were seized on one side and valance was rotten...oh what to do..
anyway am sittin at my comp and my screen saver is flippin through my build pics and l see this...
thinkin to myself whoa there...lve forgotten l had another stashed away..to cool...only ones l could find were north of ridiculous so bounus....went down to the dungeon and tracked it down...right on
Well l spent a good part of the aft cleanin that puppy up and down to bare metal...put the two lower valances side by side to check for diffrences and volia...
top is 71...lower 70...suspect l can make the 71 fit with a slight modification of the center support...just gona be my driver so don't care if its not exact
looked to have been b5 blue....wonder what happen to rest of car...
Also trying to fix up a set of gear style caps on the cheap...blew the budget on the last set and have a bunch of spares to try on..
so far....
CanCritter
Senior Member
to be continued......watch for results....
Lets see what else....signal lights...when they painted this car in 93 all they did is take lense off and throw tape over buld...whats more is they left tape in place and shows sighns of burning..lucky the car didn't burn down...shoemakers..hate them
Also while thinkin on the lenses remembered l bought a used pair to replace the damaged set on the 70 now....not only did l find them found another new set l had bought and forgotten about...they were from a 72 but matching them up will fit...beats payin supperbarf prices....
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MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
D, that putty going to stay put over the long haul?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I see where ya going with that...
Parts delivery tomorrow guaranteed or its free sir....trade ya for your leftovers
CanCritter
Senior Member
I see where ya going with that...
...well finding a good set is impossible so what l did was take my dremel and small bit and went over every single inch and ground out bubbles or bad spots ect so there was a crater left...filled those with the free crack filler from my 91 gmc project 9 years ago so its held up well lol...when dry sanded a couple and its working well...
Once there sanded to point you cant or barely feel any imperfections will hit them up with 2k high build epoxy primer...that **** holds and fills great..used on my 91 gmc extenceively and love it...
Once sprayed will sand down to as smooth as l can possibly get them and then am gona take them to a local water spray chrome set up...
Figure l should be able to get them done for under 100$ if not cheaper...l mean realy it takes them minutes and all prep is done...
Now for a drive about car its perfect and not 1k..........we.ll see how it turns out on my dime...also wondering what the car would like like with the roadwheel centers done same color as car and gear caps chromed a gold color....thinkin
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I will be watching this for sure... Sounds a lot less painful than getting the pot metal soldered and rechromed... and the failure rate of pot metal repairs sucks...
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
CanCritter
Senior Member
made in USA...
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
And I mean that in a good way.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
I see you got that alternator in and the belt nicely tensioned
CanCritter
Senior Member
Ya belt and alt fit a lot better once l put the bloody fan pulley on..thanx for the pics...thought ld taken enough.....was a long day....bloody newbies...is almost embarrasin
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Be careful with the 6" or so bolt that the alternator hangs from. It must be grade 8 and torqued according to the shop manual, other wise it will shear off flush to the head. My, not so happy, dealer broke mine off and had to pull the head to get the broken part out.
CanCritter
Senior Member
thanx..most everythings goin pretty good with exception of yesterdays brain fart
got a little more done today...cleaned up wireing looms. and got plug wires cleaned up and back on...plug wires cleaned up real well and are a quality set by the looks of them...don't know if their the original wires or not but have no quams about usein them
Hopefully my dam engine bay paint get sorted quickly so l can finish the top part of the bay and get her up on jacks and tackle the front suspension and wheel wells ect...least the hard parts almost done...
What is the purpose behind this little unit attached to the firewall ?...have seen them on most mopar firewalls but never realy knew what the heck they did...note to self..enshure good ground...
Ballast resistor?
CanCritter
Senior Member
yup....think l found my answer over at moparts...took it offa firewall today and was wonderin....
from moparts site
Quote:
And now, for the CORRECT answer. Ballasts change resistance with current as they heat and cool, and thus provide a sort of buffer for the coil. Coil current will be different at higher and lower RPM.
But the REAL nitty gritty reason is "easier starting."
A normal system runs close to 14V, and Mopar coils used to run anywhere from 8-10V AT THE COIL at the bottom end of the ballast.
When you crank the engine for start, the switch bypasses the resistor, so the coil STILL GETS about 10V--so a nice hot spark for starting.
This is something the ol' 6V cars never had.
Thats the best answer. The ballast reduces the current flow thru the coil at low speeds and keeps the coil from overheating. As was said the coil can handle more amperage but not for long periods of time. So at idle and low eng speeds the points have more time to be closed and thus the current heats the ballast up and causes it to have more resistance and drop current flow at lower eng speeds when full coil output is not needed. When you go faster and speed the eng up the points have less time to be closed so the ballast cools down some and the resistance drops causes more current to flow thru the coil and letting the coil output higher when it is needed at higher eng speeds. And when cranking the ign system needs full output to help start the eng so the ign switch bypases the ballast and gives full battery volts to the coil while cranking. Ron
Sounds magical but actually just Ohm's Law at work.
The ignition coil is basically a transformer where a current pulse in the primary coil will induce a very large output pulse in the secondary coil. This high voltage pulse is routed to the spark plugs by the distributor. The distributor also chops the voltage to the primary winding to closely control the timing of the secondary pulse. If the primary of the coil always gets 12v then every time the points close, a current spike is generated equal to the voltage divided by the coil resistance. The coil resistance is fixed and fairly low so the current draw will be quite high, but remember the current is pulsed by the points. All is well and fine until the engine is run at high rpms, the pulses coming so fast the current doesn't get a chance to fall to zero between pulses . This generates a bunch of heat and will quickly cook the coil. A worse problem, stall the engine such that the points are closed and the low resistance coil gets a constant 12v. This will generate a high current that will fry the coil.
To solve this high current problem, a current limiter or ballast resistor is required. This resistor is low ohm wire wound mounted in heat sink and bolted to the firewall to quickly dissipate heat. The ballast is wired in series with the coil, so current flowing through the circuit will generate a volt drop across the ballast according to V=IxR. This means the higher the coil current (I) the higher the ballast voltage drop, which means the voltage to the coil drops which reduces the current and the heat produced. This interaction shows how the resistor limits the current and acts a ballast, hence the name.
In order to maximize the current and spark during engine start up, the ignition switch routes start voltage directly to the coil and to the ballast resistor in the Run position.
So at high rpm the coil current tends to increase, but is limited as the ballast resistor drops more ignition voltage. I forget th numbers, but the ballast resistor is around 1 ohm and at highway speeds the coil only gets around 8 volts. In a stalled engine/closed points situation, the ballast will drop nearly half the voltage, so the coil can only see about 6v. The coil will still get hot but will take much longer to fail.
So, all points/coil engines must have a ballast resistor and it must be bolted to the firewall so that it can dissipate the heat. Electronic ignitions are a different can of worms and dpending upon their design may or may not require a current limiter.
Wow, end of ohm's law 101. It's been 46 years since I got my EE degree and am amazed how much of this stuff has actually stuck.
The ignition coil is basically a transformer where a current pulse in the primary coil will induce a very large output pulse in the secondary coil. This high voltage pulse is routed to the spark plugs by the distributor. The distributor also chops the voltage to the primary winding to closely control the timing of the secondary pulse. If the primary of the coil always gets 12v then every time the points close, a current spike is generated equal to the voltage divided by the coil resistance. The coil resistance is fixed and fairly low so the current draw will be quite high, but remember the current is pulsed by the points. All is well and fine until the engine is run at high rpms, the pulses coming so fast the current doesn't get a chance to fall to zero between pulses . This generates a bunch of heat and will quickly cook the coil. A worse problem, stall the engine such that the points are closed and the low resistance coil gets a constant 12v. This will generate a high current that will fry the coil.
To solve this high current problem, a current limiter or ballast resistor is required. This resistor is low ohm wire wound mounted in heat sink and bolted to the firewall to quickly dissipate heat. The ballast is wired in series with the coil, so current flowing through the circuit will generate a volt drop across the ballast according to V=IxR. This means the higher the coil current (I) the higher the ballast voltage drop, which means the voltage to the coil drops which reduces the current and the heat produced. This interaction shows how the resistor limits the current and acts a ballast, hence the name.
In order to maximize the current and spark during engine start up, the ignition switch routes start voltage directly to the coil and to the ballast resistor in the Run position.
So at high rpm the coil current tends to increase, but is limited as the ballast resistor drops more ignition voltage. I forget th numbers, but the ballast resistor is around 1 ohm and at highway speeds the coil only gets around 8 volts. In a stalled engine/closed points situation, the ballast will drop nearly half the voltage, so the coil can only see about 6v. The coil will still get hot but will take much longer to fail.
So, all points/coil engines must have a ballast resistor and it must be bolted to the firewall so that it can dissipate the heat. Electronic ignitions are a different can of worms and dpending upon their design may or may not require a current limiter.
Wow, end of ohm's law 101. It's been 46 years since I got my EE degree and am amazed how much of this stuff has actually stuck.
CanCritter
Senior Member
Yer fulla surprise's.... 
K....next question up....little 2bll carter carb....never done a rebuild on a carb so bear with me...in learnin mode...
This actuator pump?lever has a oval hole...is this normal or is this a wear issue?
K....next question up....little 2bll carter carb....never done a rebuild on a carb so bear with me...in learnin mode...
This actuator pump?lever has a oval hole...is this normal or is this a wear issue?
normal. looks like a carter bbd.
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