Eddy for a 318 advice please

C- Bodies Rock

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I have a '69 Fury 318..all stock except Pertronix drop in and dual glass packs..stock 2bbl is due for a rebuild..I'm thinking about an Edelbrock performer manifold and 4-bbl..Questions?..which carb will work best?..500 cfm or 600 cfm?..600 comes in two flavors..performance and economy..I am looking for a hassle free out of the box bolt on (I don't want to fool around with jetting)..will I need some kind of adapter for throttle linkage and, if so, is it commonly available? Has anyone here in C-body land done a successful 4 bbl swap for this motor?..Thanks..
 
I run a Edelbrock 600 cfm on a HP speced 383 with good result so I think 500 cfm is enough on your 318.
On the 600 the main difference is jets and rods if you compare the electric or non electric choke versions (electric choke="economy" version as long as you don't change jets and/or rods) but if you don't want to fool around with jetting (=don't care about HP or drive ability) you should probably just rebuild the 2bbl.
 
I run a Edelbrock 600 cfm on a HP speced 383 with good result so I think 500 cfm is enough on your 318.
On the 600 the main difference is jets and rods if you compare the electric or non electric choke versions (electric choke="economy" version as long as you don't change jets and/or rods) but if you don't want to fool around with jetting (=don't care about HP or drive ability) you should probably just rebuild the 2bbl.


Some 20 years ago I swapped out the junk Thermoquad for an Eddy 600CFM on my '74 Imperial 440..It ran great straight out of the box..I am sure it was under carbureted and a 750 cfm would have been a better choice to get max performance, but the 600 ran just fine...Can anyone with this 318 give me advice? ..Thanks..
 
A friend of mine did this on his '69 318 Charger. He never liked it. Problem is the intake "runners" are larger that the intake ports on a stock 318 head. Fuel always seemed to beat against itself, if that makes sense. He put the 2 bbl back on and the car ran a lot better.

Based on what he experienced, if I were ever to do this, I think I would swap the heads for those from a 360. Just my opinion.
 
A friend of mine did this on his '69 318 Charger. He never liked it. Problem is the intake "runners" are larger that the intake ports on a stock 318 head. Fuel always seemed to beat against itself, if that makes sense. He put the 2 bbl back on and the car ran a lot better.
Based on what he experienced, if I were ever to do this, I think I would swap the heads for those from a 360. Just my opinion.


When Chrysler did the 318-4 bbl package starting in 1978 in California, they used the 360 intake manifold, and a 360 size Thermoquad carburetor which was a mistake if you wanted the best low end performance. Chrysler knew better, but at the time the 2 bbls were atrocious due to lean calibrations, and a more enlightened approach using the TQ four bbl set up that adoped a stoichiometric approach to lowering emissions rather than a lean burn one (like GM did in those days), made all the difference in driveability, both cold and warm. But Chysler didn't want to spend the money for a 318 specific TQ and intake manifold, so the compromise was made. The 2 bbl guys had their head stuck in the sand using the lean burn approach which was a total failure and ended up with recalls. So some rogue engineers used the TQ to improve the situation (that is another story for another time). But I digress.

Large intake manifolds slow down the velocity of air/fuel charge into the engine which in turn decreases low end torque. And a carburetor that is also too big for the displacement of the engine is a mistake too. For the same reason. You need a carburetor closer to a 400CFM rating for a 318 if you want the best all around performance. That a 2 bbl was put back on the 318 you reference for better all around performance is no surprise.
 
When Chrysler did the 318-4 bbl package starting in 1978 in California, they used the 360 intake manifold, and a 360 size Thermoquad carburetor which was a mistake if you wanted the best low end performance. Chrysler knew better, but at the time the 2 bbls were atrocious due to lean calibrations, and a more enlightened approach using the TQ four bbl set up that adoped a stoichiometric approach to lowering emissions rather than a lean burn one (like GM did in those days), made all the difference in driveability, both cold and warm. But Chysler didn't want to spend the money for a 318 specific TQ and intake manifold, so the compromise was made. The 2 bbl guys had their head stuck in the sand using the lean burn approach which was a total failure and ended up with recalls. So some rogue engineers used the TQ to improve the situation (that is another story for another time). But I digress.

Large intake manifolds slow down the velocity of air/fuel charge into the engine which in turn decreases low end torque. And a carburetor that is also too big for the displacement of the engine is a mistake too. For the same reason. You need a carburetor closer to a 400CFM rating for a 318 if you want the best all around performance. That a 2 bbl was put back on the 318 you reference for better all around performance is no surprise.

Thanks Snotty..it sounds like you saved me a major headache..I guess I will just rebuild my BBD
 
Saforwardlook is right about performance issues with going to aftermarket carbs and manifolds on the LA series 318. When Chrysler dropped the four barrel option form the 318 poly in the mid sixties, the engine was relegated to an entry level engine with emphasis on economy, not performance. They carried this tradition forward with the LA series 318 engines. You can build a better performing 318 LA, but you are going to have to do a lot more than just change the carb and manifold. Most of the after market intakes were designed for either the 340 or later the 360 engines and were designed to increase top end performance. The stock heads, exhaust manifolds and cam on the 318 LA engine do not support top end performance and your gain from a larger carb is going to be minimal and it might actually run worse if you go with too big of a carb. I would save any attempt at a performance upgrade until such time as an overhaul is necessary, at which time your money would probably be better spent on a 340 or 360 engine.

Dave
 
Mr Rock. You can do the whole swap for next to nothing. I'm running a Holley 600 vacuum secondary ( the Rodney Dangerfield of Holleys ) on my 69 318 fury. It has dual glass packs and I'm running points with my stock rebuilt alternator (60 amp I think). I've had a pertronix " jiffy pop " under the cap before and I'll just stick with points. Anyway the edelbrock is pure bolt on, 5 or 600 it won't make much difference with a 318. The Holley is same deal but harder to set up if you're not familiar with the float bowl best idle vs vacuum etc etc. the carter/edelbrock has metering rods , think of them as long goofy jets. They take two seconds to change. We used a specific set to pass emissions in az without changing anything but the metering rods. The Holley you have to crack open to fool with so go with the edelbrock if you don't want to mess with jets. You get better mileage and crisper response with the Holley but you gotta set it up for that.
If you really want to give it a shot buy a good two to four barrel adapter and bolt that sucker on. This way your not committed if you want to turn back. The linkage adapters are sold where the carbs are. They are Ford and mopar specific. You can Jimmie your throttle cable to work. It'll reach but you might have to bend the hold down up a bit. If the cable just won't work measure its shortcoming and an old school bike shop can lengthen your accelerator cable way cheaper than buying a new one. A high perf 289 air cleaner will work great and are dirt cheep ($25 swap meet fair) until you find that oval grabber air cleaner I know you want.

If you like how it works go intake shopping. Everyone who responded is correct you ain't gonna wind up with a race car. Do not buy a LD340 or a torker. Your best bet is a cast iron (non corroded!!!) 340 intake. Aluminum intakes are always for sale for a reason... it's dark outside I'll send some pics in the sunlight tomorrow. I've been doing 318s -trucks and 340s in everything else (c bodies too ) since 1983. Your whole project should be easy & fun and you'll never get into the secondaries with a two barrel !!!


Intake is a nice cast iron with the top cut out. I put a gasket on it so you get a look at how uncut stock will look vs mine.

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Thanks Snotty,Davea,SA,Goose for all the good info.I'm gonna have to chew this one over..Goose..that adapter looks intriguing..but, is there really an advantage to using this or will the motor just suck more gas?..BTW.SA..love that Chrysler..
 
Thanks Snotty,Davea,SA,Goose for all the good info.I'm gonna have to chew this one over..Goose..that adapter looks intriguing..but, is there really an advantage to using this or will the motor just suck more gas?..BTW.SA..love that Chrysler..
Rock all I can tell you is a nice little 4 bbl will wake it up with some timing added and make the passing gear more spirited. I ditched my wheezy on off switch for a 600 Holley after I did plugs points etc etc. I already had it so all it cost was a $5 adapter at the swap meet. The thing runs & idles great and starts on the first crank. The mileage is great and im usually only putting in 5 or 10 gallons at a time (not every trip !!! ) because it's just not using tons of gas.

I haven't swapped the intake because it's run so good I just haven't bothered. I gotta put the car on our steam rack at work because the valve covers leaked oil for the last 20 years and the motor is a burnt tarry mess. After that I'll intake swap. If you've done the brakes suspension and under hood electrics then your ready to reward yourself with a little bump in horse power you can seat of the pants feel.

Here are my pics please forgive the grungy engine. The hoods never open except to check fluids now and again. I'll post pics when it's detailed. Orange or blue? A question for the ages !!!

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Here is the mopar linkage adapter they are ford and mopar specific. Edelbrock and Holley adapters don't interchange they are brand specific.

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Choke is ziptied dead. Don't use it out here in SoCal. You can see with the correct adapter all kick down stuff works and is kosher. Neglect this at your transmission's peril.

Weesh that motor really looks like dog $#*+. I guess it didn't bother me that much cause nobody wants to stare at a 318. Thanks for finding me a grungy new project....

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Good luck with your project. Keep it fun and don't expect miracles. Like they said throw in a 340 or 360 and some $$$$ for some real power. I had a '68 fury conv with a 340 727 combo and it was pretty fun. These will never really be race cars ( with all due respect to the 440HP and 6BBLs hail to the kings baby !!! ), so a race motor is kind of overkill. Have fun post some pics if you decide to go for it.
 
Hey Goose..there will be a swap meet in my area in May..but finding what I need will be hit or miss..do you have any idea who makes that adapter?..can you get me a P/N on that Holley?..you mentioned suspension..all good, but no front sway bar..it wallows around corners..I have been looking around the net for an aftermarket..no luck yet..thanks Larry
 
Hey Goose..there will be a swap meet in my area in May..but finding what I need will be hit or miss..do you have any idea who makes that adapter?..can you get me a P/N on that Holley?..you mentioned suspension..all good, but no front sway bar..it wallows around corners..I have been looking around the net for an aftermarket..no luck yet..thanks Larry
Hey Goose..there will be a swap meet in my area in May..but finding what I need will be hit or miss..do you have any idea who makes that adapter?..can you get me a P/N on that Holley?..you mentioned suspension..all good, but no front sway bar..it wallows around corners..I have been looking around the net for an aftermarket..no luck yet..thanks Larry

Oh..the car is an ice blue B3/black vinyl top 4dr H/T..straight and solid..(Ziebart when new saved it)..just bought a set of A/R Torque Thrust wheels and waiting for Spring.. paint is weak and I am looking for someone to paint it without getting raped..beauty shots will come then..
 
Hey Goose..there will be a swap meet in my area in May..but finding what I need will be hit or miss..do you have any idea who makes that adapter?..can you get me a P/N on that Holley?..you mentioned suspension..all good, but no front sway bar..it wallows around corners..I have been looking around the net for an aftermarket..no luck yet..thanks Larry
I was just popping off about priorities. My dad would kill us ( our wed kill our selves maybe ) if we didn't start with the brakes, wheel bearings, etc etc, then on to new carbs intakes headers... the fun stuff.

Any shots are better than none. Just say it's a barn find and all its faults are forgiven. That black n blue will be sharp looking. You shoulda seen mine when it picked it up. Weesh.

I think you can buy the 2 to 4 adapters at any pep boys / autozone napa etc type store for 15 20 bucks. It's a temporary deal not meant to be run forever. They're mostly free at swap meets because once you swap intakes it's just an extra part you don't need. They warp a lot so be careful it's flat if you go used. Same can be said for used aluminum intakes, they're all for sale for a reason. Take a straightedge you'll be fine. The Holley is a generic 600 vacuum secondary , square bore nothing special. I'll find the number. Keep in mind the edelbrock is more plug and play and less prone to leaks. They just go on and on. I got a comp carter, the edelbrock's dad ( grandpa?) on my 351C Torino and it does great.

I'm sure somebody can recommend shocks for your beast. I put new KYBs on my Dart and it made a huge difference no sway bars involved.

I'll post that carb number tomorrow in the daylight as I don't know it off the top of my head sorry.
 
I was just popping off about priorities. My dad would kill us ( our wed kill our selves maybe ) if we didn't start with the brakes, wheel bearings, etc etc, then on to new carbs intakes headers... the fun stuff.

Any shots are better than none. Just say it's a barn find and all its faults are forgiven. That black n blue will be sharp looking. You shoulda seen mine when it picked it up. Weesh.

I think you can buy the 2 to 4 adapters at any pep boys / autozone napa etc type store for 15 20 bucks. It's a temporary deal not meant to be run forever. They're mostly free at swap meets because once you swap intakes it's just an extra part you don't need. They warp a lot so be careful it's flat if you go used. Same can be said for used aluminum intakes, they're all for sale for a reason. Take a straightedge you'll be fine. The Holley is a generic 600 vacuum secondary , square bore nothing special. I'll find the number. Keep in mind the edelbrock is more plug and play and less prone to leaks. They just go on and on. I got a comp carter, the edelbrock's dad ( grandpa?) on my 351C Torino and it does great.

I'm sure somebody can recommend shocks for your beast. I put new KYBs on my Dart and it made a huge difference no sway bars involved.

I'll post that carb number tomorrow in the daylight as I don't know it off the top of my head sorry.
 
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