Electronic ignition conversion tips

Timsnewporttwin

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Hi Evetyone

I'd like to convert my 65 Newport to electronic ignition. Anyone out there who recommend what type system to get. Want to make conversion as discreet as possible. More reliable than retaining points I hear, better starting etc ?

Thanks
Tim
 
I like the Pertronix Ignitor II. From what I read; it has better circuitry than the Ignitor I so it doesn't have the issue with failing if the ignition is left on.

I have points in one car, Pertronix in another, and Chrysler Electronic (old USA built) in the third and they all start and run nice, so it's a toss-up.
 
I used one of the original Mopar Perf electronic ign conversion kits years ago. The best total deal there was as it had the needed factory harnesses to do the deal and look factory.

The newer repro kits allegedly have flaky control boxes which can fail often, so a normal replacement control box might be in order.

OR go to Rick Ehrenberg's ebay store and get one of his kits. Or to Mancini Racing for same.

Having an electronic voltage regulator is good to have too. For a smoother voltage supply rather than one from a pair of vibrating contact points. A member in here who sells them.

I like the electronic ignitions due to their "lack of maintenance" and the fact the dist shaft bushings will last a very long time as there are no sideloads placed on the shaft by a set of contact points.

Happy shopping!
CBODY67
 
Sounds like I've got a lot of options, prob go with MoPar kit. Planning first road trip with my car. Admit to being nervous...untouched motor/trans in car that was hauled home from a junkyard. Bad, uncared for shape a nice way to put it. It's come a long way but just local trips since I revived it
 
Mopar or no car! If I wanted a car that broke down all the time and I was constantly fixing, I would own a Chevy! HEI Pooh!

I've had good luck with the Mancini kit.
 
Mopar or no car! If I wanted a car that broke down all the time and I was constantly fixing, I would own a Chevy! HEI Pooh!

I've had good luck with the Mancini kit.
The GM HEI reproduction distributor is very dependable, and parts are dripping off the shelves at the auto parts stores. You know, the stores that don't stock the Mancini stuff?
And the HEI offers a module that retards the start/cranking timing 7 degrees. Very handy with 10.5 compression engines.
But I've not had any unreasonable recuring age related problems with the stock Mopar electronic ignition.
 
Just Carbs, agree to disagree! I'll take a Mopar electronic ignition any day over the Chevy based HEI crap! I'm sick of people trying to make their Moats into Chevy pieces of crap with ignition, crappy Chevy lobe camshafts (Comp Cams) and coil over spring front ends! Friends? I'd rather pay Mancini more than buy crap! I own a 2019 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk because it was the most USA produced vehicle that year! Buy American and put my money where my mouth is!
 
Just Carbs, agree to disagree! I'll take a Mopar electronic ignition any day over the Chevy based HEI crap! I'm sick of people trying to make their Moats into Chevy pieces of crap with ignition, crappy Chevy lobe camshafts (Comp Cams) and coil over spring front ends! Friends? I'd rather pay Mancini more than buy crap! I own a 2019 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk because it was the most USA produced vehicle that year! Buy American and put my money where my mouth is!
For sure.
I got 7 Mopar's and with the exception of a couple of distributors and window switches all the parts are Mopar. I think.
 
Mmmmm, I like all this info, definitely going to do the Mopar approved unit. However regarding GMs HEI I also own a 76 Olds 88, the HEI has been great, changed pick up about 20 years ago, have owned car for close to 30 yrs ! But for the Chrysler will get Mopar.
 
I too vote for the mopar kit. Only other advice I have is to verify the case ground on the ECU is less than .5 ohms. Without a good case ground, the transistor will overheat and shut you down till it cools off. That seems to be the biggest issue with these swaps.
 
I too vote for the mopar kit. Only other advice I have is to verify the case ground on the ECU is less than .5 ohms. Without a good case ground, the transistor will overheat and shut you down till it cools off. That seems to be the biggest issue with these swaps.
To expand on the benefits, Check the ground strap at the firewall to engine and the body ground at the negative battery cable. A ohms test is a good verification, A voltage drop test is much better and more accurate.
 
Mmmmm, I like all this info, definitely going to do the Mopar approved unit. However regarding GMs HEI I also own a 76 Olds 88, the HEI has been great, changed pick up about 20 years ago, have owned car for close to 30 yrs ! But for the Chrysler will get Mopar.
IMHO, the best of both worlds is a rebuilt US built Mopar electronic distributor with the GM HEI unit. @halifaxhops sells a version For Sale - a B and a RB rebuilt electronic distributors with HEI

I'm not a fan of the new Mopar ECU and distributors that are manufactured in China. The distributors may be OK, but the ECU boxes fail enough to say that you'll want to carry a spare. Some of the new ECU sold have different internals, with a fake transistor. There were even some sold that had a GM style HEI unit inside the Mopar type box. But some guys don't have a problem with them.

Just Carbs, agree to disagree! I'll take a Mopar electronic ignition any day over the Chevy based HEI crap! I'm sick of people trying to make their Moats into Chevy pieces of crap with ignition, crappy Chevy lobe camshafts (Comp Cams) and coil over spring front ends! Friends? I'd rather pay Mancini more than buy crap! I own a 2019 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk because it was the most USA produced vehicle that year! Buy American and put my money where my mouth is!
You have an Imperial. Let's see... Saginaw (GM) steering column, Delco signal seeking radio, Delco vent window motors and other accessory stuff I can't remember right now.

OMG! How do you drive it! :poke:

:rofl:
 
I haven't driven it yet! I got it running and then tore into it because some previous owner dumped some kind of coolant leak fixing goo that plugged up the radiator, thermostat and housing. Plus all the rubber hoses were rotted. And the fuel pump wasn't. So new fuel system going in as well. Regarding the factory installed "GM" parts, I can't do too much about that, but that doesn't mean I need to add more GM crap to it!
 
I haven't driven it yet! I got it running and then tore into it because some previous owner dumped some kind of coolant leak fixing goo that plugged up the radiator, thermostat and housing. Plus all the rubber hoses were rotted. And the fuel pump wasn't. So new fuel system going in as well. Regarding the factory installed "GM" parts, I can't do too much about that, but that doesn't mean I need to add more GM crap to it!

Well, there you have it.
The coolant leak fixing goo that plugged up the radiator, thermostat and housing is definitely NOT a genuine Chrysler part!
So, I agree with you. Chrysler only parts should be used on a Chrysler.
 
I'm not a fan of the new Mopar ECU and distributors that are manufactured in China. The distributors may be OK, but the ECU boxes fail enough to say that you'll want to carry a spare. Some of the new ECU sold have different internals, with a fake transistor. There were even some sold that had a GM style HEI unit inside the Mopar type box. But some guys don't have a problem with them.
I can't say I've had any experience with the newer China made ECU's but I suspect the biggest reason for their failure could be caused by poor installation. Namely, the lack of a good ground. As for me, I have never had an ECU failure since I learned about the case ground issue back in the late 80's when I first upgraded to an electronic ignition and did one of the poor installations I just mentioned. As a matter of fact, the ECU that got hot and failed me (4 times before I figured it out) is still doing it's job on my 65 Sport Fury. I agree with the good advice to carry a spare although I have not done so.
 
I can't say I've had any experience with the newer China made ECU's but I suspect the biggest reason for their failure could be caused by poor installation. Namely, the lack of a good ground. As for me, I have never had an ECU failure since I learned about the case ground issue back in the late 80's when I first upgraded to an electronic ignition and did one of the poor installations I just mentioned. As a matter of fact, the ECU that got hot and failed me (4 times before I figured it out) is still doing it's job on my 65 Sport Fury. I agree with the good advice to carry a spare although I have not done so.
I think you are correct about the ground. Grounds, or rather poor grounds, are the cause of a lot of electrical issues in our cars.

We live with lots of China made electronics. Some is really good and some not so good. I've seen just enough bad with the ECUs that I shy away from them. I've even seen the inside of some that bear no resemblance to the OEM Mopar ECU. That said, I carry a China made spare ECU in my 300 vert in case the old USA made ECU takes a dump when I'm on the road. LOL.
 
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