Exhaust Kit or Pay a Pro

[CBODY67]

Look, I know we have all heard (especially when the original bending machines came out) the muffler shop operatives brag about what their new machine can do. How that one machine can diminish the need for them to keep pre-bent pipes in stock, that THEY can now bend as needed and when needed. A great win for them, no doubt.

Other than the competence of the machine operator (which can be a big question, especially back then), I have observed that the quality of the pipes they use is nothing close to OEM. Reason? They RUST much quicker in the outside world. They might be nice and "clean" standing in the shop, but once in the outside world, not that way. BTAIM

Those issues and the fitment issues drove me to OEM exh system suppliers, like Walker Exhaust.

NOW, in the present times . . . as the cars seem to be becoming more popular and existing supplies of OEM-level pre-bent exhaust systems are dwindling, many are choosing to not replace those prior stocks. So our choices become fewer. As prices can escalate, by observation.

Over the years, I've seen work come out of "good shops" that is inexpensively-done. As long as the sound is right and nothing hits the car underbody, the customer is fine and then recommends that shop to others. In the 1970s, some shops used to run the rear pipes UNDER the rear axle!

Remember, too, that muffler shops are a business and they must run volume to pay the bills. Finding one WITH a quality reputation of doing good work AND willing to use hd clamps on their work (no welding, so you are not a slave to come back to them later on, if needed!!!), would be the minimum spec for me, but then I got burned by a local shop with such a good reputation. Which another local shop fixed for me and did it right. Clamps with just a tacked tab for good measure.

Y'all have fun!
CBODY67

 

[twostick]

A buddy of mine installed a complete headers to tailpipes Tti system on his 66 Fury 383 convertible. Took him an afternoon. It literally all bolted in, no fuss, no muss and it looks like it grew that way.

They aren't cheap, and that's why.

Kevin

 

[lemondana]

I ran into this when I put my system on the 71 Polara. They have 2 different hangers for that side. It's in the footnotes I called TTi and they sent me the correct hanger. Everything went well with the installation after that. Their customer service is second to none. They also sent me 1 head pipe that had the smaller flange clocked wrong. I called them up, they looked up the order, they had got it wrong. He sent out the correct pipe that day and I sent the wrong one back. I will continue to do business with them as long as I need exhaust systems. In fact I'm getting ready to order a set for my 68 Dart GTS 340 car. it will be my 4th system.

 

[lemondana]

volksworld-I meant to quote your last post. I forget to do that sometime.

 

[lemondana]

And another thing-muffler shops hate or will not bend 2 1/2" pipe over the rearend. That's why TTI stands out in my book.

 

[lemondana]

And to me, a car with TTI exhaust will be more appealing to the buyer when you get ready to sell the car.

 

[mgm1986]

These are all great points and very helpful. The TTI kit looks like a good value as well and it sounds like their customer service is top notch.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Other than the competence of the machine operator (which can be a big question, especially back then),

AND NOW! How many of these shops employ staff who can handle even 2D trig, let along solid geometry? Oh, but they have SOFTWARE TO DO THAT NOW?|! HAW! HAW! HAW! (hysterical, demonic laughter echoes for great distance and time.....) From what I've run into in these pipe shops down here, I've decided to never use any in this State.

I have observed that the quality of the pipes they use is nothing close to OEM. Reason? They RUST much quicker in the outside world. They might be nice and "clean" standing in the shop, but once in the outside world, not that way. BTAIM

Sure! These characters will buy the cheapest stock allowed by law, if there remains any.

Those issues and the fitment issues drove me to OEM exh system suppliers, like Walker Exhaust.

Let us pray such remain open.

NOW, in the present times . . . as the cars seem to be becoming more popular and existing supplies of OEM-level pre-bent exhaust systems are dwindling, many are choosing to not replace those prior stocks. So our choices become fewer. As prices can escalate, by observation.

And do, especially when encouraged by evil financing, and sundry other factors, all present and active now.

Over the years, I've seen work come out of "good shops" that is inexpensively-done. As long as the sound is right and nothing hits the car underbody, the customer is fine and then recommends that shop to others. In the 1970s, some shops used to run the rear pipes UNDER the rear axle!

Little changes in the conservative Southwest....

Remember, too, that muffler shops are a business and they must run volume to pay the bills.

DAMN RIGHT! THOSE COKE DEALERS WHO SUPPLY THE MARCHING POWDER FOR THESE SHOPS DEMAND THEIR BILLS BE PAID PROMPTLY TOO!!!

Finding one WITH a quality reputation of doing good work AND willing to use hd clamps on their work (no welding, so you are not a slave to come back to them later on, if needed!!!), would be the minimum spec for me, but then I got burned by a local shop with such a good reputation. Which another local shop fixed for me and did it right. Clamps with just a tacked tab for good measure.

I've run into a number of brain damaged "stick heads" who've all offered me the "favor" of welding my pipes. Now that I think about them, I had best re-up on the quick lime and ammunition around here, as I just re-piped Gertrude when the big old Walker muffler on her split open. I don't dig welding pipes, for the very reason you've given, among others. Good clamps and a little planning eliminate the need for welding, nearly always. I will order one pipe from Classic done over, as the set I used came off Mathilda, and I had a little trouble with the left pipe off the manifold that I eventually want to properly install. (It works as I did it, but I had to cut, making things sketchy there.) WHEN I get everything pretty, I will take pics, but that won't happen until June I expect. Still, by virtue of carefully disassembling then re-assembling the pipes, Several of my neighbors dubbed Gertrude "the Tesla" as SHE RUNS DAMNED QUIET, which makes her unique in another regard in this barrio. Once I tidy up, I will demonstrate to them all what a proper Chrysler SHOULD sound like. I like the old school ball joint coupling of the exhaust pipe to the one running into the muffler, which is how they did them from the factory in the Long Ago.

Mind you, the original pipes, excepting the muffler all came off nicely, and I'm keeping that big 2.5" "drainpipe" setup, with the Y and tailpipe all for "Just in Case." Clamping a new muffler into that will be easy enough.

Y'all have fun!
CBODY67

megatons, 2 B sure....

 

[Grannys67]

And to me, a car with TTI exhaust will be more appealing to the buyer when you get ready to sell the car.

+1 Absolutely,

Also on TTI kits; I'm a fan getting stainless sleeve-type joint clamps for the straight joint sections and using them instead of the U-bolt clamps. They look 100x better with the clamp positioned on the inboard side of the pipe

 

[Gerald Morris]

+1 Absolutely,

Also on TTI kits; I'm a fan getting stainless sleeve-type joint clamps for the straight joint sections and using them instead of the U-bolt clamps. They look 100x better with the clamp positioned on the inboard side of the pipe.

Thx 4 reminding me of these! I need to trim up both of my tailpipes, and these sorts of coupler-clamps will do VERY nicely for that. See, my pipes were originally meant for a '67, but somehow got slightly botched in their bending, so I got 'em for a tidy discount. They worked OK on our '66, and excepting the left exhaust manifold-exhaust pipe flange on our '68 would have worked VERY well. Alas, owing to minor bending while on that '66 body, I tweaked the tailpipes out of their proper planes, and must cut and rotate them. Easy enough, but I then must replace the bent length, and couple things back together. These sleeve-joint clamps combine the two functions I will need.

 

[3175375]

+1 Absolutely,

Also on TTI kits; I'm a fan getting stainless sleeve-type joint clamps for the straight joint sections and using them instead of the U-bolt clamps. They look 100x better with the clamp positioned on the inboard side of the pipe

View attachment 713822

I have those in a couple of Magnaflow exhaust systems for other vehicles. Those clamps are very nice.

 

[Boydsdodge]

With the TTI system on my Imperial I purchased seperately a pair of 2.5" Imperial spec mufflers to reduce sound.

 

[SuperDave]

I personally bought a "Universal" STAINLESS exhaust kit off of Amazon, cut & trimmed it to my liking, hung it myself with clamps, spot welded them in place, THEN I went to a professional exhaust shop & had them thoroughly weld everything up. I have one of those cheap Harbor Freight 110v gasless wire feed welders but I am in no way, shape or form a "welder". My attempts at welding are scabby looking, lumpy and tend to be bubbly & crusty looking. I can do a quick tack weld to hold stuff in place, (which is why I got it) but my skills are nothing to brag about.

Six years later and there's no rust. Didn't cost me much and I'm pleased with the results. My setup isn't stock. I run shorty headers, glass packs and side exits angled out before the rear tires. My motor has a muscle car cam in it & I want to her it gurgle at idle, and that raspy sound at speed sounds SOOoo nice to my ears. It's not a traditional exhaust but neither is the car it's hung from. Purists be damned, it's MY car.

 

[493mike]

I prefer to build my own systems. Just purchase alumized pipe and bends. The only challenging part is cutting the bends correctly. These attached systems are 3" and 2".

Mike

 

[aaron72]

I prefer to build my own systems. Just purchase alumized pipe and bends. The only challenging part is cutting the bends correctly. These attached systems are 3" and 2".View attachment 714063View attachment 714064View attachment 714065View attachment 714066View attachment 714067View attachment 714068View attachment 714069
Mike

I'm assuming those are electronic cutouts you have added there? How well do they work and for how long? Does rust start to keep the motors from allowing the ports to open?

 

[67_300_Convertible]

I prefer to build my own systems. Just purchase alumized pipe and bends. The only challenging part is cutting the bends correctly. These attached systems are 3" and 2".View attachment 714066
Mike

Is that a Gear Vendors overdrive? What has been your experience with it? Would you do it again? And what car is this beautiful exhaust mounted on?

 

[Blusmbl]

I have the 3" TTI system on my '68, unless you also buy the corresponding TTI headers they don't have the header extensions that will match up to your existing headers. I currently have Hooker headers on my car (TTI's are going on when the 540" is done and goes in), so they sold me a header exension fabrication kit that's just two mandel bent 3" 90* pipes and some clamps, and it took some fiddling to get it to line up. For your mid length headers you'll have to do it yourself anyway, there won't be a 100% bolt on solution for you.

Bought the Plymouth style oval exhaust tips as well, but the tailpipes on the C body systems are semi-universal and didn't line up well with the bumper at all so I gave up on trying to use them.

I also prefer the band style clamps, they work better and are cleaner than the traditional U bolt clamps.