As far as I know, non AC cars got 22" rads without shrouds, AC cars got 26" rads with shrouds. The rad should be high efficient, cheap rebuilds won't cool the engine properly.
Finally a 70’ Fury Owner
- Thread starter Yeahrightgreer
- Start date
As far as I know, non AC cars got 22" rads without shrouds, AC cars got 26" rads with shrouds. The rad should be high efficient, cheap rebuilds won't cool the engine properly.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Smart Man! 2 ballast resistors! Your way ahead of the game!
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
I remember this and is the correct fuel line S-bend.
If that carb is cleaned rebuilt (carb spray can?) it could come out a little better if you used a little brass wire brush on the parts or dipped it in the carb cleaner bucket to make it sparkle a little bit better. Cleans up the crud off the linkage a little bit better so it works smoothly.
And what ever you do don't lube or grease the linkage as that will cause it to stick in cold weather.
Yea right, that's clean? Send it to the bead blaster cabinet pluuuease!
plug the hole in the bottom too.
If that carb is cleaned rebuilt (carb spray can?) it could come out a little better if you used a little brass wire brush on the parts or dipped it in the carb cleaner bucket to make it sparkle a little bit better. Cleans up the crud off the linkage a little bit better so it works smoothly.
And what ever you do don't lube or grease the linkage as that will cause it to stick in cold weather.
Yea right, that's clean? Send it to the bead blaster cabinet pluuuease!
plug the hole in the bottom too.
Yeahrightgreer
Senior Member
Big block none AC cars would of gotten 22”. Small blocks with no AC should just have a 19”.
Smart Man! 2 ballast resistors! Your way ahead of the game!
You never know when you have to do a tactical reload. You can never have too many!
Yeahrightgreer
Senior Member
Had some time during lunch and pulled the intake. Time to clean up surfaces and pull the front end accessories
Might as well start painting things if I’ll be trapped inside
Might as well start painting things if I’ll be trapped inside
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65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
Are you still running that MSD with the new distributor? Using the MSD you shouldn't need the ballast resistor.
Yeahrightgreer
Senior Member
Setting the MSD aside for now - may come back to it someday. Ive found at least 4 resistors in the engine bay so the more the merrier.
Just waiting for a new timing cover and gaskets to come in the mail this week so I can dive in and install everything.
Yeahrightgreer
Senior Member
What do you think would be a good method of blocking the passageway off? JB Weld? Steel plate?
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
Tap it for a pipe plug of the correct size.
Nice work!
Yeahrightgreer
Senior Member
Finally got all the gaskets, new timing cover, fuel and water pump. Spent the weekend cleaning and painting. Last thing left is to paint the air cleaner which I took from my 440. I also need to make sure to flush the radiator and water ways. Hopefully everything falls together and should be running by the end of this week. Today I’ll try cracking the timing cover but knowing my luck I’ll break the oil pan gasket and have to drop that too.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Years ago I've seen these type of plugs installed:
Hex Socket Blanking Pipe Plug
Yeahrightgreer
Senior Member
So the EGR passage way feeds exhaust gas back into the system correct? What effect would it have if it wasn’t blocked off. Wasted or lost power?
Yeahrightgreer
Senior Member
The chain had some slack in it. About 9° degrees of play in it with camshaft engaged. FSM limit is about 8..5°. Decided to replace it while I was in there with a Cloyes Double roller set. Motor has good compression in cylinders. Cam wear is suspected for the mileage. Worked on getting the oil seal in without a press but made it work and sealed it with Neoprene. I’ll have to do an oil change for any material that dropped down into the oil pan.
Starting to look like an engine again. Ignition rewired, choke hooked up, Engine on TDC, Dizzy lined up. Block full of coolant.
Last thing should be the linkage. I’m able to set up the kickdown, but I can’t get the throttle set up properly. Sitting a bit too far forward.
Possibly need a different or 4V bracket? It’s the original 2V off the old intake. Anything I can fabricate?
Starting to look like an engine again. Ignition rewired, choke hooked up, Engine on TDC, Dizzy lined up. Block full of coolant.
Last thing should be the linkage. I’m able to set up the kickdown, but I can’t get the throttle set up properly. Sitting a bit too far forward.
Possibly need a different or 4V bracket? It’s the original 2V off the old intake. Anything I can fabricate?
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Yeahrightgreer
Senior Member
I left off the throttle rod and return spring for the sake of the picture
thrashingcows
Senior Member
The throttle cable is at too much of a compound angle, needs to be almost perfectly straight. The metal outer casing is getting bound up on the lower section that is why you are not getting any throttle travel.
Yeahrightgreer
Senior Member
I’ve been able to mess with it and I’m able to get a pretty good amount of travel with the gas pedal, not quite WOT but pretty close. Do you think I could bend the transmission linkage to get the proper kickdown?
I was able to finally start the car up last night. First time I’ve heard it run since before Thanksgiving. It’s running at an extremely high RPM. Hooked up the tach and it was reading about 2300+. Adjusting the curb idle to the lowest setting is only able to bring it down to about 1900RPM. Disabling electric choke and mixture screws helps a bit more but not enough. What else am I missing? Its got a standard street cam on the accelerator pump and it’s got free travel, not tight. Unfortuentlty I wasn’t able to bench it before I put it on the car but these are usually good for most street applications out the box. Maybe vacuum leak since intake was off?
I was able to finally start the car up last night. First time I’ve heard it run since before Thanksgiving. It’s running at an extremely high RPM. Hooked up the tach and it was reading about 2300+. Adjusting the curb idle to the lowest setting is only able to bring it down to about 1900RPM. Disabling electric choke and mixture screws helps a bit more but not enough. What else am I missing? Its got a standard street cam on the accelerator pump and it’s got free travel, not tight. Unfortuentlty I wasn’t able to bench it before I put it on the car but these are usually good for most street applications out the box. Maybe vacuum leak since intake was off?
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Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
Disconnect your linkage temporarily and start it again, it has to be a partially open throttle to do that. check the butterflies are closing before start up.
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