Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion

[traintech55]

Ok..back at it. I'm sweating details cause I don't want to get out on the HWY and realize I fudged something up.....bad visual. The rear seal is on as are inner and outer bearings, and the rotor itself. Does that seal look as if it is seated properly in there? Next are the calipers......

And make sure that the METAL part of the seal is flush with the rotor. The rubber part will be sticking out of the assembly. Just like on your old drums.

 

[70_NPORT]

Yes. I thought that was how I installed it...using the pic as a guide....taking a second look at it

 

[70_NPORT]

Ok...flipped...metal is flush to rotor surface......kind

 

[Polara_500]

Now you just need to 'seat' that seal.

 

[SF-66TC]

Just put a small block of wood ie; 2×4 on top and knock it down flush with your BFH

 

[70_NPORT]

Back on the spindle....it might not look so in the pic but the metallic end of the seal is sitting flush on the rotor surface (rather than flipped around like before).....

...my old drums are in pieces now so.....and looking at my FSM...had disc brake pics...

 

[Polara_500]

Still no good - from that view you should not see the metal of the seal when it's properly seated into the bearing cavity.

 

[70_NPORT]

all the way in.....via BFA hammer and 2x4 piece of wood

 

[commando1]

Now you've got it.
For future reference whenever seating a seal, I always use a section of pvc pipe of the proper diameter of the outer edge of the seal. I'm uncomfortable with using force on the inner edge. It seats evenly that way. You'll need to remember that when you replace your transmission seal...

 

[Polara_500]

Now that's properly seated in the cavity, so just make sure to wipe off the exposed grease before assembly and you're in business.

 

[70_NPORT]

Now you've got it.
For future reference whenever seating a seal, I always use a section of pvc pipe of the proper diameter of the outer edge of the seal. I'm uncomfortable with using force on the inner edge. It seats evenly that way. You'll need to remember that when you replace your transmission seal...

I wasn't crazy about wacking it with the 2x4 either...

 

[commando1]

I wasn't crazy about wacking it with the 2x4 either...

I wasn't there to stop you but so be it. Next time wait until I wake up. lol

 

[70_NPORT]

I wasn't there to stop you but so be it. Next time wait until I wake up. lol

Hahaha...sleeping in.

 

[70_NPORT]

Looking good now

 

[commando1]

The castle nut doesnt look like it's snugged up yet. Is it?

 

[70_NPORT]

The castle nut doesnt look like it's snugged up yet. Is it?

Yea it's snug?

 

[Polara_500]

It had better not be. Should have a bit of the spindle threads showing just past the tips of the shield you put over the castle nut. Snug it up good with a wrench then back it off a good bit and approach again for a 'snug' fit.

 

[commando1]

Something's wrong. Or at least not normal.
Maybe the new rotors are wider than OEM?
The spindle nut castle cap should have one of the slots line up with the hole in the spindle where the cotter pin goes.

Crank down as hard as you can on the nut to fully seat the the whole assembly. The hole should extend out beyond the nut.
Then back the nut off enough where you can spin the rotor by hand. Tweek it so cap slot lines up with hole.

 

[70_NPORT]

Something's wrong. Or at least not normal.
Maybe the new rotors are wider than OEM?

They 73' c body rotors

More Information for RAYBESTOS 7018R

 

[Big_John]

Yea, something is wrong.