t57f100
Member
hello all i have a 65 plymouth fury having basically a front end kit put in it i know the guys does great work.Question how much do you think parts and labor would be for this job.thanks for the help.
having work done info here needed
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rkrochen
Senior Member
That’s a loaded question you need to provide us with more info on the parts they are installing.
By the way I like the car.
By the way I like the car.
t57f100
Member
gee thanks for the quick reply so far its strut rod bushings lower control arm bushings while he is there and upper and lower ball joints and idler arm as far as i can tell for now he will give me a price on it
mrfury68
Senior Member
It all depends on the shop's labor rate and cost of the parts, obviously. Are you supplying the parts and have the shop install them or are they getting the parts? If the shop supplies the parts they usually mark them up. If you supply the parts you may pay a little higher labor rate, depending on the shop. Some shops don't want to be bothered trying to source parts for an old car. Good luck and keep us posted on the progress. You will love the feel of driving your Fury once the front end is rebuilt. I know I did. Don't forget to pay attention to the steering gear and rag joint.
Just to do upper and lower control arm bushings w/ strut arm bushings a min. Of 450.00 dollars plus parts. Add full sway bar bushing replacement another 120.00. If you can be more specific what needs to be changed I can give a better estimate.
rkrochen
Senior Member
Quick guess is about 6 hours labour. As mentioned you need to make sure the steering box is correctly adjusted. If not it will feel sloppy.
The Goose
Senior Member
Lots of parts kits out there on line. Hardest thing to do is getting real parts. A lot of cheep knock offs out there. Front end stuff is the most important thing you can do except maybe for brakes. Good luck.
rags
Senior Member
in ct? parts and labor total: $1000.00. ct! land of the screwed!
The Goose
Senior Member
For what it’s worth we did my front end this week on my 2014 Chevy 4by. It took us about a day and a half and that was taking our time & stopping to exchange wrong parts delivered over and over...
Hubs, axle shafts, rotors... the ball joints turned out to be ok except for one and replacing that one was pretty funny. Good for another 250k.
Lots of advice givers...
This apparently is how you replace a ball joint on a 2014. Chuck in a new arm. Crazy.
The dead soldiers.
Hubs, axle shafts, rotors... the ball joints turned out to be ok except for one and replacing that one was pretty funny. Good for another 250k.
Lots of advice givers...
This apparently is how you replace a ball joint on a 2014. Chuck in a new arm. Crazy.
The dead soldiers.
The Goose
Senior Member
Our labor rate is $125 an hour, (in shop rate, field is $150 plus travel $$$), Ricky our truck side guy charged the company his time and I’m salary plus commission so I was free. Hey it is my truck right??? might as well pitch in. If another shop guy jumped in it would’ve been $250 an hour. Adds up fast brother!!!!
Figure parts mark up at 50%, shop time is around $100 per hour for front end work these days. This is a 6-8 hr job although any tech work his salt can beat the flat rate manual by 1/3 to 1/2. I would price this job at about $600 for labor. The next trick as mentioned above is to find decent after market parts, all of the crap imported from overseas is junk and not worth the trouble to put in. Think Car Crap, Blotto Zone etc.
Dave
Dave
The Goose
Senior Member
All true. Our parts mark up is 45% PLUS freight, dang it there’s always freight....
t57f100
Member
wow got up this morning to see all the write in here wow from pics to estimate guesses i love it this place rocks to from senior members to active members we all come together for the cause.THANK YOU i know we are all busy these days so support is great thank you.im basically thinking the same amount as you guys.im figuring about 500 for parts this guy doesn't buy junk stuff either so I'm comfortable on that end he is also a friend of the older car group and owner of the business.labor im thinking 700 give or take 100.00 so im good with 1300 to 1500 and it will be great again.dual exhaust will wait for another time.never had a car with dual exhaust so its cool to wait get some opinions on that as well.When its time for that i hope to get a sort of a more rumble like setup but not loud dont want that or that causes a drone.Any way thank you will see what he saids ill keep you all posted enjoy your friday and weekend.
65fury1
Member
So true in the Constipation state, oops constitution.
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rags
Senior Member
was my baseline, standard response estimate. in the world of the 21st century, if a car has to go on a lift for a repair, other than an oil change or basic maintenance, chances are the bill is going to be in thousand dollar range. major repair, transmission or engine on a modern car, it's twenty five hundred. as for ct, fiscally, we're just screwed. wouldn't trade it for cali. or so many other places though.
Car looks nice. Sits "right", etc. How many miles and what prompted the desire for the new parts? Just curious.
There are some items in those kits you might not need. Like the tie rod adjusting sleeves, for example.
To me, just the control arm business, upper AND LOWER, plus possibly ball joints might be all that's really needed. Be advised that to do the lower control arm bushiness, the torsion bars will need to be slid back, SO the proper tool to do so is needed. Also check the condition of the rear boots on the bars, too, while you're there.
I know that everybody tends to be "kit oriented" in more recent times, with the alleged price savings, BUT don't replace something just because you can. If the current items aren't really worn, but just old, what you replace them with might be of lower quality, but new. So don't condemn parts just due to age. Over the years, there have probably been MORE Chrysler lower ball joints replaced, that were still very much "in spec", but made to look "worn out" by the techs that sold the new stuff.
Never did have to replace any lower ball joints on my C-bodies, but did have to replace an idler arm, once (cornering performance was affected).
Spending the money might be good for your "piece of mind", but if the existing parts aren't really "worn", are still "in spec", then you might spend a good bit of money for little real performance benefit. Your money, your car, etc.
Afterward, a good alignment needs to be done, too. PLUS setting the front end height if the T-bars are moved to do the lower control arm bushings.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
There are some items in those kits you might not need. Like the tie rod adjusting sleeves, for example.
To me, just the control arm business, upper AND LOWER, plus possibly ball joints might be all that's really needed. Be advised that to do the lower control arm bushiness, the torsion bars will need to be slid back, SO the proper tool to do so is needed. Also check the condition of the rear boots on the bars, too, while you're there.
I know that everybody tends to be "kit oriented" in more recent times, with the alleged price savings, BUT don't replace something just because you can. If the current items aren't really worn, but just old, what you replace them with might be of lower quality, but new. So don't condemn parts just due to age. Over the years, there have probably been MORE Chrysler lower ball joints replaced, that were still very much "in spec", but made to look "worn out" by the techs that sold the new stuff.
Never did have to replace any lower ball joints on my C-bodies, but did have to replace an idler arm, once (cornering performance was affected).
Spending the money might be good for your "piece of mind", but if the existing parts aren't really "worn", are still "in spec", then you might spend a good bit of money for little real performance benefit. Your money, your car, etc.
Afterward, a good alignment needs to be done, too. PLUS setting the front end height if the T-bars are moved to do the lower control arm bushings.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
t57f100
Member
i have had a noise from time to time from the front end but could not figure out where it was coming from until last weekend when it really made a scraping noise turns out it was a strut rod bushing.the guy who is doing the work is a great member of our community he understands old car needs and gets good quality parts
with parts and labor 1400 the only thing that he will not change because it is still in spec is the upper ball joints.everything else will be done.alignment as well.when i first got the car the steering wheel is not centered and the car does seem to require a lot of moment to keep it "between the lines" all these things leave me to believe me that i am having an issue here.changing something to just change it is a waste of money and you are right a lesser quality exists today shame but its true.to answer you question the odom is showing about 65,000 on it but im thinking 165,00
t57f100
Member
the verdict is in parts and labor 1400 and the only thing that will remain is the upper ball joints they are still in spec all else will be changed.i like the man he is a great person and doesn't mean to be untrustworthy so im good with it and from what i see here you guys seem to be around the same price as well ill report more again thank you for all who wrote in .just a bit of info here all parts are being replaced by QA1 PARTS great place from what i have heard and customer service is compared to no-one just a bit of info
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Not to discount any wear issues in the suspension, BUT also check the input side of the steering gear for "in and out" movement as the steering wheel is turned its initial amount (before the steering linkage moves).
Reason I say that is that I tried for a good while to get my '70 Monaco to have less "slop" in the steering. All of the linkage was to spec and no alignment-setting/holding issues. But there was still more movement in the steering wheel before the car would react.
Tried adjusting the "top" adjustment, which did not help. I could easily see the "in and out" movement of the steering input shaft of the steering gear. NOBODY every mentioned that there was any adjustment there! The FSM mentioned the requisite special tools to reassemble the gearbox in that area, but little else. GM Saginaw steering gears, by comparison, had no such "play" issues.
When I showed the mechanic at our local Chrysler dealer, where we'd done business for years, that issue. He ran backwards and said "best not to touch that". So no help there.
When I went into GM parts later on, I discovered that GM called that part the "adjuster plug", which has some seals that would leak over time. There was an adjustment there, but on the Chrysler boxes, it took a special spanner wrench to do it, out of the car. So although my theory of an adjustment there being proven, never did take getting it adjusted better any farther.
That "play" just seems to be a part of the breed. Similar issues, but less so, on the '72 my parents bought. It's one of those things that if you key on it, you notice it big-time, but if you just drive and go on, not so much.
I have no experience with any of the Steer&Gear or FirmFeel units in this respect. Borgeson has a kit to put a late-model Jeep steering gear in place of the big Chrysler "chuck". I'm suspecting this might be the best option for an upgrade.
Not that there is some wear and such in your suspension items, but it might not be ALL of the reason you're headed in the direction you're headed in.
From my experiences with our '66 Newport, one of the BEST things you can do is to put HD shocks on the car. Plus run the tire pressures 30f/28rr, or possibly add 2psi to each amount. If it's a 318 car with no front sway bar, that can be added, too.
Sounds like you've got a good plan. Please keep us posted.
CBODY67
Reason I say that is that I tried for a good while to get my '70 Monaco to have less "slop" in the steering. All of the linkage was to spec and no alignment-setting/holding issues. But there was still more movement in the steering wheel before the car would react.
Tried adjusting the "top" adjustment, which did not help. I could easily see the "in and out" movement of the steering input shaft of the steering gear. NOBODY every mentioned that there was any adjustment there! The FSM mentioned the requisite special tools to reassemble the gearbox in that area, but little else. GM Saginaw steering gears, by comparison, had no such "play" issues.
When I showed the mechanic at our local Chrysler dealer, where we'd done business for years, that issue. He ran backwards and said "best not to touch that". So no help there.
When I went into GM parts later on, I discovered that GM called that part the "adjuster plug", which has some seals that would leak over time. There was an adjustment there, but on the Chrysler boxes, it took a special spanner wrench to do it, out of the car. So although my theory of an adjustment there being proven, never did take getting it adjusted better any farther.
That "play" just seems to be a part of the breed. Similar issues, but less so, on the '72 my parents bought. It's one of those things that if you key on it, you notice it big-time, but if you just drive and go on, not so much.
I have no experience with any of the Steer&Gear or FirmFeel units in this respect. Borgeson has a kit to put a late-model Jeep steering gear in place of the big Chrysler "chuck". I'm suspecting this might be the best option for an upgrade.
Not that there is some wear and such in your suspension items, but it might not be ALL of the reason you're headed in the direction you're headed in.
From my experiences with our '66 Newport, one of the BEST things you can do is to put HD shocks on the car. Plus run the tire pressures 30f/28rr, or possibly add 2psi to each amount. If it's a 318 car with no front sway bar, that can be added, too.
Sounds like you've got a good plan. Please keep us posted.
CBODY67
t57f100
Member
i will sir as far as shocks go i just put on nos pleasurizer shocks and what a difference it made the ones on the car were original ones from plymouth these cars i was told came with oil filled not the gas shocks or new style this car rides like a boat and i love that about it.
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