Looking at a Hellcat

It is a serious durability risk to try to build more than 426 cubic inches unless you use the shortest stroke possible. Certain bore and stroke combinations are prone to piston damage due to piston combination instability with tip over causing piston skirt collapse. Due to piston cooling, oiling and emissions, retaining the piston oiler in a stroker application is extremely important.

View attachment 160056
Now if we can get the aftermarket to produce the MDS lifters for less than $1400 a set all the 5.7 will look more interesting after 150,000 miles.
And, yes like cigarettes the more the ECO light is on the shorter the engines life
 
And, yes like cigarettes the more the ECO light is on the shorter the engines life
And yes,
like cigarettes,
the more the ECO light is on,
the shorter the engine's life.


I had to read it 4x to figure out what you said. An unnecessary extra 30 seconds of my life I will never get back. :rolleyes:
 
And yes,
like cigarettes,
the more the ECO light is on,
the shorter the engine's life.


I had to read it 4x to figure out what you said. An unnecessary extra 30 seconds of my life I will never get back. :rolleyes:

I think a few punctuation tips from Victor Borge would help a lot here. . .
 
And yes,
like cigarettes,
the more the ECO light is on,
the shorter the engine's life.


I had to read it 4x to figure out what you said. An unnecessary extra 30 seconds of my life I will never get back. :rolleyes:
I don't think you should ever spend that much time figuring out my posts.
:poke:
 
Ok now that we have that figured out, why or how does 4 cyl mode reduce engine life?
Carmine can give you the best description of how it works.
The oil/hydraulic pressure that makes the lifter act solid to open the valves is bled off letting the lifter collapse (body follows cam lobe and plunger or cup stays with and without hydraulic cannot open the valve) kills operation of that cylinder, but the lifter is taking a beating. This is why correct oil weight and regular changes are critical in these. Mopar is only people making these lifters at around $1400 for a set.
I believe with long term operation in deactivation mode the roller pin is gaining clearance and eventually fails by not rolling on the cam and wiping the cam out.
I don't think it is a design flaw just a material long term durability issue, like the internal spring over years and heat cycles is not keeping the roller planted enough on the cam. It is a technology that over time will become bullet proof.
The fix for the older engines is to unplug the solenoids under the intake and run on all eight all the time. They do make aftermarket lifters that don't deactivate but the 2010/2011 up engines with VVT, probably will not play nice without cylinder deactivation.
Again Carmine better to answer that.
Also the Ram I think, since they weigh like 1/2 as much as my Peterbilt they are in ECO mode.
 
Carmine can give you the best description of how it works.
The oil/hydraulic pressure that makes the lifter act solid to open the valves is bled off letting the lifter collapse (body follows cam lobe and plunger or cup stays with and without hydraulic cannot open the valve) kills operation of that cylinder, but the lifter is taking a beating. This is why correct oil weight and regular changes are critical in these. Mopar is only people making these lifters at around $1400 for a set.
I believe with long term operation in deactivation mode the roller pin is gaining clearance and eventually fails by not rolling on the cam and wiping the cam out.
I don't think it is a design flaw just a material long term durability issue, like the internal spring over years and heat cycles is not keeping the roller planted enough on the cam. It is a technology that over time will become bullet proof.
The fix for the older engines is to unplug the solenoids under the intake and run on all eight all the time. They do make aftermarket lifters that don't deactivate but the 2010/2011 up engines with VVT, probably will not play nice without cylinder deactivation.
Again Carmine better to answer that.
Also the Ram I think, since they weigh like 1/2 as much as my Peterbilt they are in ECO mode.

Thanks for the explanation, makes sense. In the city i doubt my heavy foot allows much ECO mode, but on the highway however I tend to set the cruise to 10 over and let her do her thing. I guess, fortunately, I don't do a lot of highway anymore. I do have the oil changed at the dealer but i'm not sure what I'm getting for oil. I'm supposed to use only 5W20 but looking over my receipts for the last 11 years, sometimes it says 5W20, sometimes it just says "bulk oil". The other odd thing I see is the amount of oil used varies from 5L to 8L. In every case the oil filter was supposed to be replaced so I don't see the reason for the different volumes. Comparing these invoices is not giving me a warm fuzzy feeling towards these dealers. Obviously the rule you get what you pay for does not apply to these guys.

ECO wise my hemi is probably still ok, in 11 years it's only gone 51,000 miles ... just broken in!
 
Thanks for the explanation, makes sense. In the city i doubt my heavy foot allows much ECO mode, but on the highway however I tend to set the cruise to 10 over and let her do her thing. I guess, fortunately, I don't do a lot of highway anymore. I do have the oil changed at the dealer but i'm not sure what I'm getting for oil. I'm supposed to use only 5W20 but looking over my receipts for the last 11 years, sometimes it says 5W20, sometimes it just says "bulk oil". The other odd thing I see is the amount of oil used varies from 5L to 8L. In every case the oil filter was supposed to be replaced so I don't see the reason for the different volumes. Comparing these invoices is not giving me a warm fuzzy feeling towards these dealers. Obviously the rule you get what you pay for does not apply to these guys.

ECO wise my hemi is probably still ok, in 11 years it's only gone 51,000 miles ... just broken in!
It will be fine, I'm sure. My wife's '11 has just shy of 100,000 mile. I will let you know if something goes boom or I trade it on a eco Diesel.
 
They are great engines. However, believe it or not.... the 30k vs. 100k (5.7 vs 6.4) is a standard plug vs. platinum. Yes, that comes down to cost. The 6.4 is a premium cost engine, so I imagine they build the extra $50 into the price.

Shades of the 318-4, huh? But you're fooling yourself if you think other companies don't do the same thing (or worse). Please find the attached photo of a BMW "wear item", the worm drive for a valvetronic (VVT) engine. My buddy just did this job after the cost exceeded the value of the car (so being a mechanic, he bought it from a neighbor).

N55 eccentric shaft,valvetronic motor


I've actually never changed Gen 3 hemi plugs in a car, but in a lab setting, I could do it in about 3 minutes. 5 with a blindfold. BTW, the newest hemi's also have VVT, but it's done without any wormgears!

View attachment 159820
The worm gear is providing variable lift... lots of different ways have been used to get there... IIRC BMW went with a different design after a couple of years...

For those who don't keep up with this technology, the valve lift is used to control the engine... the throttle plate is now used primarily to control vacuum almost like a late model EGR diesel.

FWIW... with all the tech talk in this thread... I was asked by my brother's inlaws about why every time Mom's MB went into the dealer they wound up with a 2-3 thousand dollar repair bill. I answered "That's why I liked working on them." I also answered the question of do I keep the 150k mile one or trade for a newer one... "Keep doing the maintenance and you'll get 3-400K out of it, or start a new set of payments..."

I have done a lot of repairs that defied simple financial "is it worth it" logic. At the same time, the used car that folks compare it to often has it's own set of problems and maybe an accident history that won't show up on carfax. If you have a good ride, a little investment will keep it a good ride for much longer...
 
Back to the Hellcat for a minute. For shitz and giggles, I got an insurance quote for a Hellcat. I was shocked at the difference quoted for a Challenger vs a Charger. The Charger Hellcat rates are about 50% higher than the Challenger Hellcat. I expected the 4 dr Charger to be less of a risk for the insurance companies, but apparently not. Pricing difference between an RT and Hellcat Challenger was not significant, but comparing the Charger RT and Hellcat models gave a notable difference.
 
Back to the Hellcat for a minute. For shitz and giggles, I got an insurance quote for a Hellcat. I was shocked at the difference quoted for a Challenger vs a Charger. The Charger Hellcat rates are about 50% higher than the Challenger Hellcat. I expected the 4 dr Charger to be less of a risk for the insurance companies, but apparently not. Pricing difference between an RT and Hellcat Challenger was not significant, but comparing the Charger RT and Hellcat models gave a notable difference.
Don't worry... they will figure it out and get you by the next premium...
 
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