Meet Ming, my 1973 New Yorker Brougham

What was the date code on that round back alt? Surprised to see that on a 73. Maybe already replaced at one point.
 
Now it was time for the heads to go on. We opted for steel shim gaskets vs the blue fel pros. View attachment 611993View attachment 611994View attachment 611995View attachment 611996

Next I disassembled/cleaned the new oil pump before packing it with grease and dropping in the intermediate shaft. When doing this make sure the engine is at TDC and the groove in the gear is in line with the crankshaft.

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Next up the valve train. I installed the new lifters, new push rods, and freshly cleaned rocker shafts. View attachment 612000View attachment 612001

Now its starting to look like something!!!
Thanks for the update, How does the engine feel after the build? Any balance work done for the new pistons? Do you have a static compression ratio?
 
Thanks for the update, How does the engine feel after the build? Any balance work done for the new pistons? Do you have a static compression ratio?
Because it is externally balanced, they did a "sportsman" balance on the rotating assembly. Basically made sure all the rods and pistons weighed exactly the same.

As far as compression ratio, It should be a little better than stock. I dont have an exact figure.
 
Because it is externally balanced, they did a "sportsman" balance on the rotating assembly. Basically made sure all the rods and pistons weighed exactly the same.

As far as compression ratio, It should be a little better than stock. I dont have an exact figure.
Thats good to hear on the balance, good it was checked. Pistons today are usually pretty close, but way back, pistons could have quite the weight difference and it was a necessity to balance.
 
Small update on Ming.

I was waiting on brake hoses @ayilar had ordered for me. After being off the road for so long, the rear hose seemed to have collapsed and I only had front brakes. Changed the rear hose. Bled the brakes and took the car for a drive and found I had MUCH better stopping power.

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I then changed the fronts out and found I have a busted bleeder on the passenger side. Luckily there was enough sticking up and I could get vise grips on it and crack it loose.

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This is where I am at now. I need to replace the bleeder, very lucky it cracked loose. Then re-bleed all 4 corners as the pedal is still somewhat soft.

Also, need to get a seal kit for the Federal PS pump to keep the fluid INSIDE the pump. Any recommendations?

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The only FCBO thread that I found on the topic is this one:

https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/threads/federal-power-steering-pump-rebuild-kit.49437/

--> Can anyone comment on the Gates 351170 Pump Seal Kit?
Photo of the pump in question

View attachment 614074
That pump is identical to the one in my '75 Imperial, with the exception rear mine has a solid pulley. The Gates 351170 seal kit is actually the one I've used when I rebuilt the pump a couple years back.

Looked it up, ordered it December 2020 and it held up great for the last couple years.

Only issue I had was getting the pump housing mounted properly but I think my reservoir is just a little messed up.
 
The Gates 351170 seal kit is actually the one I've used when I rebuilt the pump a couple years back. Looked it up, ordered it December 2020 and it held up great for the last couple years.
Thank you -- I ordered the last Gates 351170 sealing kit that RA had in stock over my lunch break today.
 
Update time!

We got the gates 351170 kit and I pulled the pump off the car and got it torn down on the bench.
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My hands got pretty dirty and I didn't get photos of each of the seals after replacement but here's the state of the ones I replaced...the one for the reservoir body was broken and likely why fluid would pour out of the pump.
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I reinstalled the pump. Topped off the PS fluid. Started the engine. Turned the wheel back and forth a few times and checked the fluid level again. The next day I came back and while under the pump was dry it seems the PS box itself is dripping more than I'm comfortable with. I will be pulling the box and shipping it to Steer and Gear over the winter months.

Moving on to the other issue. The brake bleeder. Pulling it back out wasn't an issue. But finding a match wasn't easy. You'd think Wyatt has a stack of calipers surely one of them would fit? Nope. It was way oversize compared to what I'm used to. Not sure what to make of it. I got an assortment from O'Reillys. None of them would fit. All way too small. A 2nd trip to the Napa Hub store yielded the Golden ticket. I replaced the bleeder and bleed the front brakes and topped of the brake fluid. I took her for a quick spin and the brakes are working great now! I did notice a little wetness on the booster, showing we may need to do a master cylinder at somepoint.
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With those things taken care of, I decided to get to a few other things handled.

I changed out the trunk lock cover with an NOS one

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Also. Last summer I was diagnosing Buttercups horn issue and "borrowed" mings horn relay. At the time I figured honking was the least of Mings concerns... Fast forward to now...I need to find a relay. The first C body I parted at my shop was a 73 NYB. I dug out its harness, and luckily the horn relay was there still. Installed it in Ming and squeezed the Rim. Both Hi/Low horns rung out loudly. YES!

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I also changed the pull handle of the passenger door with the one ordered a while back, unfortunately I neglected to grab a photo of that.

Now here's where something strange and new occurred. I was planning to vacuum/change floor mats and hit the road to get more miles on the 440 and also see if any more "bugs" develop. I started the car and backed out of the shop. It was dark and I pulled the headlights on and...WTF? No dash lights? I stopped and all of a sudden I had dash lights? Foot off the brake - dash lights gone again. Shoot...

I pulled back in and immediately got my test light out and started checking fuses on the left side of the fuse block. They all checked out good. So I was left to do some thinkin...I dont have an FSM for a 73 but something was screaming in my head...its not a fuse? Head light switch. Headlight switch. So I pulled the HVAC vent tube out to access the back side of the dash, reached in, pushed the button and pulled handle out of the switch. Now I can unscrew the collar and drop the switch out. When I did that, I observed the pigtail was melted a little. Hmm weird. I changed the switch and tested it. Dashlights working as intended. I reinstalled the switch and put the hvac tube back in place. Pulled the switch and again...no dash lights? WHAT!!! I stepped on the brake pedal...and again had lights. You gotta be kidding me! I pulled the hvac tube again and reached up behind the switch and started to make sure the connection was still secure. Dash lights blinked a few times. I dropped the switch back out and observed that the melted part of the pig tail was loose. I wiggle that terminal and had dash lights flashing. The terminal then crumbled and fell apart...great.

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I went over to the other harness and it's plastic was in much better condition. But you can see it got hot at somepoint too. Not nearly as bad though...I pushed all the pins out and called it a night.

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I am HOPING to re pin the pig tail and have this issue resolved.

This issue right here could have turned into a fire. I dont know what caused it, but I'm glad I was able to catch this issue Additionally, I think it would be wise to run the headlight relay harness on this vehicle. This is why I run the relay harness right here. You have an issue? You pop relays. Without? You have an issue? You melt stuff and run the risk of your baby going up in flames.

That's all for this round. Stay tuned for more updates on Ming!!!
 
I agree, put relays on those headlights. It's a good idea for any of us that might ever drive their car at night.
FWIW, you've got a bushing popping out on one of those caliper pins.
 
I agree, put relays on those headlights. It's a good idea for any of us that might ever drive their car at night.
FWIW, you've got a bushing popping out on one of those caliper pins.
I know I see the shape the calipers are in. It's likely we will have to refurbish the brake system. I'm just dealing with the immediate issues at the moment.
 
I have a box of 4 used caliper cores for rebuilding when the time comes.
I've been wondering if doing the hot-vinegar-derusting is a good idea or not.
They would obviously need a thorough rinsing afterward.
I just haven't done that on a hydraulic-type component before.

Anyway - carry on, sir.
 
With those things taken care of, I decided to get to a few other things handled.

I changed out the trunk lock cover with an NOS one

View attachment 623372View attachment 623374


Also. Last summer I was diagnosing Buttercups horn issue and "borrowed" mings horn relay. At the time I figured honking was the least of Mings concerns... Fast forward to now...I need to find a relay. The first C body I parted at my shop was a 73 NYB. I dug out its harness, and luckily the horn relay was there still. Installed it in Ming and squeezed the Rim. Both Hi/Low horns rung out loudly. YES!

View attachment 623373

I also changed the pull handle of the passenger door with the one ordered a while back, unfortunately I neglected to grab a photo of that.

Now here's where something strange and new occurred. I was planning to vacuum/change floor mats and hit the road to get more miles on the 440 and also see if any more "bugs" develop. I started the car and backed out of the shop. It was dark and I pulled the headlights on and...WTF? No dash lights? I stopped and all of a sudden I had dash lights? Foot off the brake - dash lights gone again. Shoot...

I pulled back in and immediately got my test light out and started checking fuses on the left side of the fuse block. They all checked out good. So I was left to do some thinkin...I dont have an FSM for a 73 but something was screaming in my head...its not a fuse? Head light switch. Headlight switch. So I pulled the HVAC vent tube out to access the back side of the dash, reached in, pushed the button and pulled handle out of the switch. Now I can unscrew the collar and drop the switch out. When I did that, I observed the pigtail was melted a little. Hmm weird. I changed the switch and tested it. Dashlights working as intended. I reinstalled the switch and put the hvac tube back in place. Pulled the switch and again...no dash lights? WHAT!!! I stepped on the brake pedal...and again had lights. You gotta be kidding me! I pulled the hvac tube again and reached up behind the switch and started to make sure the connection was still secure. Dash lights blinked a few times. I dropped the switch back out and observed that the melted part of the pig tail was loose. I wiggle that terminal and had dash lights flashing. The terminal then crumbled and fell apart...great.

View attachment 623375View attachment 623376View attachment 623377

I went over to the other harness and it's plastic was in much better condition. But you can see it got hot at somepoint too. Not nearly as bad though...I pushed all the pins out and called it a night.

View attachment 623378View attachment 623379View attachment 623380

I am HOPING to re pin the pig tail and have this issue resolved.

This issue right here could have turned into a fire. I dont know what caused it, but I'm glad I was able to catch this issue Additionally, I think it would be wise to run the headlight relay harness on this vehicle. This is why I run the relay harness right here. You have an issue? You pop relays. Without? You have an issue? You melt stuff and run the risk of your baby going up in flames.

That's all for this round. Stay tuned for more updates on Ming!!!
I wondering what the big power draw is from. When I get some down time later I will have a look at the pink circuit and see whats on it, I kinda remember cigar lighter, signals maybe rear lights..
 
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