MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Nothing specific, I wiped everything down with WD-40 after the parts were steel wool down. Over time parts will be wiped down with Armor All or equivalent as part of the regular detailing.
Alan
MrMopar's 1969 California Highway Patrol restoration
- Thread starter MrMoparCHP
- Start date
Nothing specific, I wiped everything down with WD-40 after the parts were steel wool down. Over time parts will be wiped down with Armor All or equivalent as part of the regular detailing.
Alan
hotpursuit
Member
Your car is really coming along nicely. I recently went to your website. I'm the guy who bought the "fakes" car. I knew it was only a CHP package car and not used by CHP. Some signs were no spotlight holes or whip antenna hole. Also, it has front door trim and full wheel covers. Anyway, I've wanted a '69 Polara pursuit for 20+ years. Now, I got one! I plan to restore it to "detective style", all black. Since the perfectly authentic CHP look has been done already (plus I can't stand fake CHP cars), I'm gonna make mine a clean, driveable example of these rare machines. Now, if I can find a dashboard upper...
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
I bet if you look at your door trim you will see that it was put on with clips that were drilled into the door. The factory installed trim have the studs. The factory shipped the door trim in the trunk of the cars for resale, they were still in my trunk when I got my car.
I would still be interested in seeing your car sometime.
Alan
hotpursuit
Member
Cool info, thanks. My car seems pretty straight (except for the rotted floor). I only recently got it. I need to find out why it's running off a "remote gas tank" (a red gas can stuffed in front of the radiator w/ a hose) ?! My challenges are refurbishing the cracked white steering wheel and seeing if ABCMOPARTS will do a dash upper.
hotpursuit
Member
I also need a set of nice red circle poverty caps.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
I order a new AC compressor, condenser and dryer and had everything I needed till I foundout the compressor pulley was not correct. Big_John to the rescue but still needed a coil, a NOS one was located. The compressor I got didn’t quite look like a factory installed unit, structurally it was the same but it needed a couple tags, clips and some hardware swapped out.
I got all that done while I was waiting for the pulley and coil to arrive. The compressor was mounted in lieu of not having a pulley.
Not much to elaborate on but installing the pulley was the last piece needed before installing the radiator and evaporator.
I can't say enough about Detroit Muscle Technologies (DMT) for stepping up to the plate and making the seals needed for this project. I sent them the parts needed to make the seals and the results are perfect. Their products are top quality and I have used them before on my Barracuda. This is work in progress but I felt I would share what they have done already.
Alan
I got all that done while I was waiting for the pulley and coil to arrive. The compressor was mounted in lieu of not having a pulley.
Not much to elaborate on but installing the pulley was the last piece needed before installing the radiator and evaporator.
I can't say enough about Detroit Muscle Technologies (DMT) for stepping up to the plate and making the seals needed for this project. I sent them the parts needed to make the seals and the results are perfect. Their products are top quality and I have used them before on my Barracuda. This is work in progress but I felt I would share what they have done already.
Alan
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73Coupe
Senior Member
Lookin' good!!! Very clean!
I'd like to know what makes a "correct" pulley/clutch for the compressor, and is this year specific? Also, what did you do the the compressor to make it look more factory (besides the tag)? Where did you get the tag?
Did you get parts from Classic Auto Air?
Also, I noticed some "fail safe" cables attached to your motor mounts in an earlier pic, or maybe on your website. These seem like a good idea to install given the reliability of these rubber mounts. Were these a police car thing, and where did you get?
Thanks....JT
I'd like to know what makes a "correct" pulley/clutch for the compressor, and is this year specific? Also, what did you do the the compressor to make it look more factory (besides the tag)? Where did you get the tag?
Did you get parts from Classic Auto Air?
Also, I noticed some "fail safe" cables attached to your motor mounts in an earlier pic, or maybe on your website. These seem like a good idea to install given the reliability of these rubber mounts. Were these a police car thing, and where did you get?
Thanks....JT
I can't say enough about Detroit Muscle Technologies (DMT) for stepping up to the plate and making the seals needed for this project. I sent them the parts needed to make the seals and the results are perfect. Their products are top quality and I have used them before on my Barracuda. This is work in progress but I felt I would share what they have done already.
Alan
I ordered some seals from them myself and I'm pretty happy with quality and price! Interesting, that they make seals by need. I made the ones they didn't have by myself... How much were the custom seals they made for you?
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
In my case the pulley was the wrong diameter, this is application specific.
To make the compressor look more factory I added the service tag (shiny metal one) on one head (available through most reproduction dealers like Year One), on the other head I added the part number tag that is bolted down with two of the head bolts. There were also a couple clips needed to hold the coil wire. The cap on the charging valve was different and the bolts used to hold the hoses on.
Some of the items can be seen painted in this picture...
The cable is by Chrysler's terms an "Engine Roll Cable", most people refer to it as a torque strap or cable. This is a factory unit that is original to this car.
I'm not sure what dictated what cars got it but my 318/auto has one, may have been related to the sure-grip rear.
Alan
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MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Initially contacted them about geting raw material to do my own and he mentioned that he was looking to get things like the AC box for a C-Body so he could expand his line. I said I could send my stuff so he could work from them, no cost to me and he now has an expanded line. The downside is that it has been a year plus in the making and he is not done yet.
Alan
73Coupe
Senior Member
Thank you! When I first got my car I had the compressor changed out, and unfortunately, if equipped, I think the tags and wire clip got sent in with the core. Had I known....
I would like to find a clip though....definitely needs it!
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
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The day started with the plan to get the front wheels under the car, with that done I could put the engine in. First up I started with the right torsion bar and had issues with the boot, turns out it was not the correct one (although some claim they can be used) so I chose to reuse the original ones. Bar in I go to put the shocks in an I wasn’t quick enough, I’d compress it and faster than I could slip it in it would extend jamming in a manner that It wouldn’t go in.
The plan was to try and tie it up, I tried some cord I had but it stretched too much and ultimately broke before I could get the shock in. Plan B I chose to compress the shock using my jack and a socket, with the shock compressed and two hands free I was able to tie it up enough to get it in. Once the shock was in it wouldn't slip into the control arm due to the powder coating, with the shock in the car I ground the bushing down enough for it to fit.
On to the bump stops, zero clearance to get a wrench in the frame, I tried u-joints and swivel sockets. A 9/16 1/4 drive socket probably would have done it but none existed, I ended up buying a stubby 3/8 drive and got it in. With all that done all I needed to do was put the wheel on, not so quick, powder coating. I needed to remove the powder coating where the wheel centered on the hub, done, not so quick. The wheel weights were the stick on type and were hitting the caliper so off they came, done! On to the other side, I have all the issues figured out so it should go quick, not.
Soon as I tried to put the other used boot on it tore. Oh well time to track one down.
Till next time,
Alan
Alan - Just catching up on your progress. Had the same issue with gas shocks in one of my cars. The shocks came with zip ties on them. Got the shock in position between the LCA and top mount and cut the strap. The shock fitted itself into position with a little wriggling on the bolt hole in the LCA.
I've read ahead and read your account of fitting the engine. Did the factory assembly manuals you bought indicate if the K-frame was installed prior to the engine, or was the engine installed on the K-frame and the frame/engine/trans stuffed into the car from below as a unit? I realize that's not viable in a home garage, but I'm hoping to do that with the car I'm working on. The unibody is on a lift and I'm hoping to be able to secure it to the lift at the rear with the front end hanging over and lower the body onto the engine/trans/K-frame.
Your attention to detail is terrific and I'm looking forward to following your progress.
Kevin
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
The assembly manual didn't talk about the frame at all. I have always assumed it was no different than the other cars, bottoms up.
I had no problem removing the frame/engine/transmission as an assembly in my garage.
The assembly stayed in that corner through the entire bodywork process, till I was ready to work on it. We actually had more room to move the body about once it was removed.
The plan was to reverse this process to put the engine back in but have nowhere to keep painted fenders and a frame so on the car they went.
Alan
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73Coupe
Senior Member
I guess the front shocks are a b**** in any fuselage? Or any C body for that matter? Same experience here.... I got the KYB gas-a-just shocks too which are extra stiff. had to compress in a pipe clamp, then tie with bailing wire and pliers (like rebar). They barely fit into their spots above the control arm and frame. Then cut the wire. Then compress from the top with a piece of wood while yanking wire out the bottom. phew...
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Like swiping the bacon out of a rat trap.
Fury Pursuit
Senior Member
I've read ahead and read your account of fitting the engine. Did the factory assembly manuals you bought indicate if the K-frame was installed prior to the engine said:
I used the gaskets I ordered from them yesterday and have to admit, that 50% of the gaskets I ordered are not fitting... I had to cut away parts of the gasket to get it working :/
You've send in all the three fiberglass pieces of your AC Box? I'm working on my box as well and could use all the foam gaskets for it! But if DMT need another year to get them done, I probably have to make my own :/
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
So the Imp will be finished by then...
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