300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Well, from where I'm sitting...
My new ‘64 Crown Coupe
- Thread starter detmatt
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Imperial dude
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Pretty sweet Imperial, I was mine had all those options
My reverb "tank" is mounted to the floor behind the back seat just under the convertible top pump. Neat car Matt. Glad to see you got am Imperial with A/C. . .
No A/C. . .
commando1
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Nope, that **** will be in a box in the trunk along with the Auto Pilot servo that will no longer fit next to the dual res master.Betcha Matt doesn't fix the AC in the '64. Just, "needs charged."
I can show you mods and a dual res master that will allow the Autopilot and brakes to live together...
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That would be neat of you to share regardless of wether I would ever do it Ross, please do.
Will do.
OK - so the first thing you need is a master cylinder that has ports that exit on the ENGINE side rather than the fender side. This is so that the brake lines don't interfere with the mounting bracket for the autopilot. They can also be serviced that way too.
The generic master cylinder number is 101475 - it's a Bendix unit. Still shown as available, but be forwarned that it sometimes gets substituted for one with bosses on both sides... NOT what you want. The one you want looks like this:
There may be clearance issues with the master cylinder lid and the servo mounting bracket - I had to notch my bracket to clear the master's lid. There may be enough room in your situation.
You will need to modify the actuator rod from the gas pedal pivot - it will need to be bent around the master, and the end cut off and cut down to permit it to poke through the autopilot's spring loaded accelerator connection point. Secure it with a washer and a cotter pin. At least, this is what needs to happen on a 65-66 C body - perhaps there's more room in a 64 Imp to do less of a severe modification. Regardless, it's worked perfectly for me for years. Since that rod has some length adjustment built into it, I've also heard of people simply moving the control servo more forward on the inner fender to accommodate the dual res master. Regardless, the mods I've made have worked perfectly for nearly 20 years...
Lastly, I made a heat shield to protect the brake lines from the heat of the exhaust manifolds, since they now run significantly closer to the manifold. No problems either.
The generic master cylinder number is 101475 - it's a Bendix unit. Still shown as available, but be forwarned that it sometimes gets substituted for one with bosses on both sides... NOT what you want. The one you want looks like this:
There may be clearance issues with the master cylinder lid and the servo mounting bracket - I had to notch my bracket to clear the master's lid. There may be enough room in your situation.
You will need to modify the actuator rod from the gas pedal pivot - it will need to be bent around the master, and the end cut off and cut down to permit it to poke through the autopilot's spring loaded accelerator connection point. Secure it with a washer and a cotter pin. At least, this is what needs to happen on a 65-66 C body - perhaps there's more room in a 64 Imp to do less of a severe modification. Regardless, it's worked perfectly for me for years. Since that rod has some length adjustment built into it, I've also heard of people simply moving the control servo more forward on the inner fender to accommodate the dual res master. Regardless, the mods I've made have worked perfectly for nearly 20 years...
Lastly, I made a heat shield to protect the brake lines from the heat of the exhaust manifolds, since they now run significantly closer to the manifold. No problems either.
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Dang Ross, nice work! That would be a battle I wouldn’t choose until maybe everything else was done.
It's not as hard as it looks... you're totally able to do it.
For me it's one of those those things where all the toys MUST BE FUNCTIONAL. Since it was imperative to upgrade the brakes, I had to figure out how to fit the new longer master in with the servo.
For me it's one of those those things where all the toys MUST BE FUNCTIONAL. Since it was imperative to upgrade the brakes, I had to figure out how to fit the new longer master in with the servo.
Now I'll never convince Detmatt to sell me an Auto Pilot setup!
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I may have everything you need except the dash control and I’m sure that wouldn’t be hard to come up with. I’ll just send the servo right to ross so he can go through it for you.
I'm going to be rich!!
robert siliani
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dematt : Arrive rejuvenated!
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You’re preaching to the choir...
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
Ya know...... Back in the day I drove several Mopars with a single res master cylinder and never had one fail. All this talk about converting to a dual res master cylinder seem like a unnecessary effort on a car that will see limited use.
I plan on using a good quality new single res cylinder and DOT 5 fluid in Virgil.
I plan on using a good quality new single res cylinder and DOT 5 fluid in Virgil.
And that's just the thing... cars that see limited use can still experience degradation of braking systems at the same rate as ones driven daily.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic and can rot brake lines out from the inside, and they "unzip" themselves under high pressure, failing when you need them the most. A burst brake line on a single circuit brake system will result in NO BRAKES AT ALL, and the result can be tragic. A dual circuit brake system will still give you brakes when on two wheels when one circuit fails.
Case in point - many years ago a sweet little old lady pulled out in front of me while I was driving the red Monaco - I hammered the brakes, the rear line blew and I had the pedal go to the floor. Fortunately I had time to hit the parking brake which hauled the car down in enough time that I stopped about 3" from her driver's door. If I had not had a functional parking brake or enough time to depress it, I likely would have killed her.
I convert all my cars to dual circuit brakes as a matter of course, due to that experience.
Of course, DOT 5 fluid will eliminate the hygroscopic thing, BUT, while unlikely, brake circuits can still fail for other reasons than a burst brake line due to internal corrosion. Fittings can let go. Wheel cylinders can let go. The dual circuit system is your fail safe. There are reasons it was mandated.
My two cents.
As Saylor says, "try not to die", and I'll add "or maim or kill anyone, or wreck your car."
Brake fluid is hygroscopic and can rot brake lines out from the inside, and they "unzip" themselves under high pressure, failing when you need them the most. A burst brake line on a single circuit brake system will result in NO BRAKES AT ALL, and the result can be tragic. A dual circuit brake system will still give you brakes when on two wheels when one circuit fails.
Case in point - many years ago a sweet little old lady pulled out in front of me while I was driving the red Monaco - I hammered the brakes, the rear line blew and I had the pedal go to the floor. Fortunately I had time to hit the parking brake which hauled the car down in enough time that I stopped about 3" from her driver's door. If I had not had a functional parking brake or enough time to depress it, I likely would have killed her.
I convert all my cars to dual circuit brakes as a matter of course, due to that experience.
Of course, DOT 5 fluid will eliminate the hygroscopic thing, BUT, while unlikely, brake circuits can still fail for other reasons than a burst brake line due to internal corrosion. Fittings can let go. Wheel cylinders can let go. The dual circuit system is your fail safe. There are reasons it was mandated.
My two cents.
As Saylor says, "try not to die", and I'll add "or maim or kill anyone, or wreck your car."
LeBaron1973
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In addition to what Ross said consider the financial expense of rebuilding Virgil, complete replacement rear and restoring everything else, would be a shame to smash him up should (unlikely I know) brake failure occur.
Regardless, I wish you and Virgil many many happy miles and smiles.
Regardless, I wish you and Virgil many many happy miles and smiles.
I replaced mine on the Polara when the master failed on a lonely gravel road, downshifting on gravel was what slowed the car, and luckily no traffic on the pavement as we reached it, still not stopped. My Polara 500 has the single master still, but I noticed the pedal starting to stay lower than it should, a symptom the Polara had from day 1. (I should have replaced it much sooner, as I had to pull the pedal up with my foot so I could step on it to brake. 
Muy stupido.) So that will get replaced and I'll do it to the Canadian Monaco just for my peace of mind, don't care if someone doesn't like my non original brakes, as I don't care about winning any awards. But would a single circuit master work, sure, but it's not for me.
Muy stupido.) So that will get replaced and I'll do it to the Canadian Monaco just for my peace of mind, don't care if someone doesn't like my non original brakes, as I don't care about winning any awards. But would a single circuit master work, sure, but it's not for me.
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