OK - so the first thing you need is a master cylinder that has ports that exit on the ENGINE side rather than the fender side. This is so that the brake lines don't interfere with the mounting bracket for the autopilot. They can also be serviced that way too.
The generic master cylinder number is 101475 - it's a Bendix unit. Still shown as available, but be forwarned that it sometimes gets substituted for one with bosses on both sides... NOT what you want. The one you want looks like this:
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There may be clearance issues with the master cylinder lid and the servo mounting bracket - I had to notch my bracket to clear the master's lid. There may be enough room in your situation.
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You will need to modify the actuator rod from the gas pedal pivot - it will need to be bent around the master, and the end cut off and cut down to permit it to poke through the autopilot's spring loaded accelerator connection point. Secure it with a washer and a cotter pin. At least, this is what needs to happen on a 65-66 C body - perhaps there's more room in a 64 Imp to do less of a severe modification. Regardless, it's worked perfectly for me for years. Since that rod has some length adjustment built into it, I've also heard of people simply moving the control servo more forward on the inner fender to accommodate the dual res master. Regardless, the mods I've made have worked perfectly for nearly 20 years...
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Lastly, I made a heat shield to protect the brake lines from the heat of the exhaust manifolds, since they now run significantly closer to the manifold. No problems either.
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