Well...I don't know how to interpret this lockup converter notification that was adhered to the inside cover of my 1978 Data Book.
New to me 78 NYB on its way but please Don't tell my wife
- Thread starter 73 T&C
- Start date
Well...I don't know how to interpret this lockup converter notification that was adhered to the inside cover of my 1978 Data Book.
I meant that 1978 was the only year you could a lockup converter with a big block.
Off idle delay gizmo...
Part of the dead pedal/hesitation I feel may be coming from the instant drop in advance that comes the moment I begin moving the throttle. Aggressive movements are not a problem as much as slight ones.
My theory is that in a normal vacuum mechanical advance system there is a bit of delay that the electronic system may be missing.
To test that theory, I would need to maintain the switch closed for the briefest of moments (1/4-1/2 second) for the mild movements of the throttle that one makes pulling away normally from a stop.
Here’s a sketch of what I’m thinking.... with the stainless steel prototype I made.
The idea is that the contact remains even as the initial slight movement of the throttle is made.
Here is the prototype installed with a small hose clamp on the the contact
Road test seemed to show that the gizmo is working and appears to have solved the issue.
Now to make a less ghetto version of the gizmo.
Part of the dead pedal/hesitation I feel may be coming from the instant drop in advance that comes the moment I begin moving the throttle. Aggressive movements are not a problem as much as slight ones.
My theory is that in a normal vacuum mechanical advance system there is a bit of delay that the electronic system may be missing.
To test that theory, I would need to maintain the switch closed for the briefest of moments (1/4-1/2 second) for the mild movements of the throttle that one makes pulling away normally from a stop.
Here’s a sketch of what I’m thinking.... with the stainless steel prototype I made.
The idea is that the contact remains even as the initial slight movement of the throttle is made.
Here is the prototype installed with a small hose clamp on the the contact
Road test seemed to show that the gizmo is working and appears to have solved the issue.
Now to make a less ghetto version of the gizmo.
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In between.....
Installed an NOS hood ornament and cleaned the drivers side carpet.... again.
Nice and shiny
Almost red... couple more light passes should get it looking decent again.
While cleaning out the garage a few weeks back, came across this little beater brush head for the vacuum. Does wonders beating out the sand and loose fibers from the carpet.
Installed an NOS hood ornament and cleaned the drivers side carpet.... again.
Nice and shiny
Almost red... couple more light passes should get it looking decent again.
While cleaning out the garage a few weeks back, came across this little beater brush head for the vacuum. Does wonders beating out the sand and loose fibers from the carpet.
Mr C
Senior Member
It means that they stopped offering it during the production run...probably because the C body and the B & RB engines (in cars) were ending. The B engine lockups are very rare. I've only seen one in person.
Shop day afternoon...
Worked on:
Cold idle (was too high)
Warm idle (too high as well)
Easy screw turn stuff but she had to be stone cold to do it.
Drivers side marker light and lens clean up between above settings. And..... more road testing.
Good news: Hesitation on initial off idle now gone. Engine responsive cold and warm. Performs like a 440 should... almost as good as the wagon. If I had not bypassed the advance delay OSAC valve on the wagon, I would say they would be about equal now.
Still runs a little rough when cold... thinking about that one and have a few ideas.
Drivers side running light and cornering light are one in the same. This one obviously held water for a long time and the cornering light metal screw in retainer rusted badly. Will need to get another one.
That’s my new $20 spark control computer which I took to test. Works fine. One more spare for the collection. I really like to keep them original as much as I can. But then again, maybe you guys new that. (Sorry Stan... looks like I’m keeping the ELB for now)
No lift today so it was back to old school work on the floor. It was a little difficult pulling the fixture out without breaking it but I managed.
Took the inner lenses out carefully to be able to get at all of rust staining. The orange lens cracked in the fixture as I was pulling it out.
Shot the reflector with this wonderfully shinny alum paint. I recommend it. Most of the reflective surface was gone when I cleaned it.
All together with the help of a little bit of super glue to hold the inner lenses in place. Looks like I did it in a minute but I had to let the paint and parts dry. Polished the outer lens in the meantime. Final result was not NOS but very serviceable I think.
Managed to get it back in with no issues.
The marker light socket was corroded but it was mainly surface stuff. Was able to clean it enough to get good reliable contact with the bulb. This took a while and I had to gently squeeze the white rubber socket, in the end, to get it to make tight contact.
The cornering light works for now but is otherwise toast.
Next on the list of items to repair.... cruise control module. I tested the contacts to the connectors (I had the tester out to check the marker light) and they have power and the switch on the column works fine. This unit is just toast.
Worked on:
Cold idle (was too high)
Warm idle (too high as well)
Easy screw turn stuff but she had to be stone cold to do it.
Drivers side marker light and lens clean up between above settings. And..... more road testing.
Good news: Hesitation on initial off idle now gone. Engine responsive cold and warm. Performs like a 440 should... almost as good as the wagon. If I had not bypassed the advance delay OSAC valve on the wagon, I would say they would be about equal now.
Still runs a little rough when cold... thinking about that one and have a few ideas.
Drivers side running light and cornering light are one in the same. This one obviously held water for a long time and the cornering light metal screw in retainer rusted badly. Will need to get another one.
That’s my new $20 spark control computer which I took to test. Works fine. One more spare for the collection. I really like to keep them original as much as I can. But then again, maybe you guys new that. (Sorry Stan... looks like I’m keeping the ELB for now)
No lift today so it was back to old school work on the floor. It was a little difficult pulling the fixture out without breaking it but I managed.
Took the inner lenses out carefully to be able to get at all of rust staining. The orange lens cracked in the fixture as I was pulling it out.
Shot the reflector with this wonderfully shinny alum paint. I recommend it. Most of the reflective surface was gone when I cleaned it.
All together with the help of a little bit of super glue to hold the inner lenses in place. Looks like I did it in a minute but I had to let the paint and parts dry. Polished the outer lens in the meantime. Final result was not NOS but very serviceable I think.
Managed to get it back in with no issues.
The marker light socket was corroded but it was mainly surface stuff. Was able to clean it enough to get good reliable contact with the bulb. This took a while and I had to gently squeeze the white rubber socket, in the end, to get it to make tight contact.
The cornering light works for now but is otherwise toast.
Next on the list of items to repair.... cruise control module. I tested the contacts to the connectors (I had the tester out to check the marker light) and they have power and the switch on the column works fine. This unit is just toast.
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Got a call from Ivan today. I had asked him to change out the alternator, flush out the cooling system and upsize the belts for the compressor. (I wanted to increase the diversion angle around the idler to reduce or completely suppress the belt hop that is bouncing the belt against the idler and ringing it like a bell)
He told me my coolant came out brown and black and green and chunky. He also told me that two of my rear freeze plugs are weeping.
Told him to pull those two and and be ready to change them all. Get the entire kit even the small head ones .... and get the power washer ready.... we’re going in.
Pictures tomorrow.
He told me my coolant came out brown and black and green and chunky. He also told me that two of my rear freeze plugs are weeping.
Told him to pull those two and and be ready to change them all. Get the entire kit even the small head ones .... and get the power washer ready.... we’re going in.
Pictures tomorrow.
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75LandYacht
Yank Tank
If you EVER decide to Open a C Body repair gig on the side.. I’m first in-line. Maybe not first! But I’m in for sure. Lol
If I ever did... it would be the most expensive freaking shop in town. We would try our best to do it right and damn the torpedoes and your wallet. We’d have to call it “Javier’s Unaffordable Car Care Center”
Luckily, I got a fairly good NYB to start, but those of you who’ve been following along, know all the work, parts and time that have gone into this particular little project. What started at a $5k project has blown way past that and I’ve not valued my time at all in this.
The challenges are beginning to run down on this NYB project. And the road testing/shake down is now beginning. Drive ability and realiability are my two primary watch words in all projects. I build them to drive and enjoy them. In my old age, I’ve learned to sort them out BEFORE I start driving them. It keeps the enjoyment level high and the frustration level down.
For example:
Today is my 25th wedding anniversary and my beloved and I celebrated with a day long date driving first to Everyglades City for a lunch of really good fresh fish and then Naples for a walk on the beach..... nice day made nicer by having no car issues to get in the way. Here’s my happy wife at lunch today..... see....happy!
A lot of work goes into making happy happen.
This NYB has been running progressively warmer of late with greater and darker amounts of coolant blow off after shut down.
Imagine if I would have had the radiator and or a freeze plug blow out today. A beautiful and meaningful day would have turned to ****.
Sure... **** can happen to anyone, but less **** happens to you if you plan and work for it not to happen.
And that’s why my shop would be.... unaffordable.
Luckily, I got a fairly good NYB to start, but those of you who’ve been following along, know all the work, parts and time that have gone into this particular little project. What started at a $5k project has blown way past that and I’ve not valued my time at all in this.
The challenges are beginning to run down on this NYB project. And the road testing/shake down is now beginning. Drive ability and realiability are my two primary watch words in all projects. I build them to drive and enjoy them. In my old age, I’ve learned to sort them out BEFORE I start driving them. It keeps the enjoyment level high and the frustration level down.
For example:
Today is my 25th wedding anniversary and my beloved and I celebrated with a day long date driving first to Everyglades City for a lunch of really good fresh fish and then Naples for a walk on the beach..... nice day made nicer by having no car issues to get in the way. Here’s my happy wife at lunch today..... see....happy!
A lot of work goes into making happy happen.
This NYB has been running progressively warmer of late with greater and darker amounts of coolant blow off after shut down.
Imagine if I would have had the radiator and or a freeze plug blow out today. A beautiful and meaningful day would have turned to ****.
Sure... **** can happen to anyone, but less **** happens to you if you plan and work for it not to happen.
And that’s why my shop would be.... unaffordable.
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Coolant Flush and plug update:
Coolant was totally contaminated with dissolved solids and god knows how many leak additives. This car sat for about 5 years prior to my ownership and was obviously leaking badly at the radiator when I got it. However, the initial flush and sounding of the plugs went well and easy. The freeze plugs themselves looked good and didn’t sound weak when tapped (probably because they were backed up with so much crud).
Up to just recently, the engine was brought to temp with little heat or load. As I began road testing and driving it more, it seems the crud started loosening and moving through the system. I was noticing it was running a bit warmer and heat soak was expelling more, hotter and crudier looking coolant.
Bottom of rearmost two plugs were toast. Rest were varying degrees of bad. Block is/was full just past the drain plugs with crud. All lower block plugs and drains now pulled. The uppers seem to be good after some sounding to check them. More flushing of the open block, and radiator in progress now with system open prior to light pressure wash before installation of new plugs..... and more flushing. I see more frequent flushing in my future for this car’s cooling system.
The passenger side front was fairly clear
You can see the crud and a lot of non metallic black crud on just a quick wipe. Can somebody say BARR’s Stop leak!?
This is the outside view of the freeze plugs pulled before I got there. It looks like some of these may have been changed
The rear view of the freeze plugs shows the varying degrees of deterioration.
Drivers side plug hole showing level of solidified crud.
Crud up solid to block drains.
All getting loosened and flushed now.
As long as I had to pull the motor mounts, they will be changed as well now. Drivers side takes the most torque load and was looking a little iffy with deep stress cracks in the rubber but still not failed....just barely.
Coolant was totally contaminated with dissolved solids and god knows how many leak additives. This car sat for about 5 years prior to my ownership and was obviously leaking badly at the radiator when I got it. However, the initial flush and sounding of the plugs went well and easy. The freeze plugs themselves looked good and didn’t sound weak when tapped (probably because they were backed up with so much crud).
Up to just recently, the engine was brought to temp with little heat or load. As I began road testing and driving it more, it seems the crud started loosening and moving through the system. I was noticing it was running a bit warmer and heat soak was expelling more, hotter and crudier looking coolant.
Bottom of rearmost two plugs were toast. Rest were varying degrees of bad. Block is/was full just past the drain plugs with crud. All lower block plugs and drains now pulled. The uppers seem to be good after some sounding to check them. More flushing of the open block, and radiator in progress now with system open prior to light pressure wash before installation of new plugs..... and more flushing. I see more frequent flushing in my future for this car’s cooling system.
The passenger side front was fairly clear
You can see the crud and a lot of non metallic black crud on just a quick wipe. Can somebody say BARR’s Stop leak!?
This is the outside view of the freeze plugs pulled before I got there. It looks like some of these may have been changed
The rear view of the freeze plugs shows the varying degrees of deterioration.
Drivers side plug hole showing level of solidified crud.
Crud up solid to block drains.
All getting loosened and flushed now.
As long as I had to pull the motor mounts, they will be changed as well now. Drivers side takes the most torque load and was looking a little iffy with deep stress cracks in the rubber but still not failed....just barely.
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I can't imagine the swearing required to replace the freeze plugs.
And in Spanish!!!!!
LeBaron1973
Old Man with a Hat
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Good to see the progression. Did you have any luck aligning the front bumper? Seem to recall Stan advising the issue was poor stamping from the factory, but if anyone can do it you can.
In relation to the cooling system flush, I once saw an episode of wheeler dealers where Edd flushed a jaguar (I think) engine with a then new machine - connect to cooling system, switch on and wait, eventually all clean. Perhaps someone else saw this and knows what it was???
In relation to the cooling system flush, I once saw an episode of wheeler dealers where Edd flushed a jaguar (I think) engine with a then new machine - connect to cooling system, switch on and wait, eventually all clean. Perhaps someone else saw this and knows what it was???
LeBaron1973
Old Man with a Hat
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I did a quick search and the system is called terraclean, www.terraclean.net. On the wheeler dealers episode, a unit was used to remove all the carbon buildup. Checking their website reveals various units for decarbonising, cooling system flush etc, may be a good thing to check out Javier, would be good to clean out the old girl.
Incidentally, happy anniversary to you both.
Incidentally, happy anniversary to you both.
78Brougham
"Chump"
What about the heater core? Didn't you just replace it? Think it got full of crap?
Thanks for all your concerns and suggestions.
So far, it’s all coming out.
The radiator flushed out clean and I have every expectation that the heater core will as well. Remember that the current coolant (50/50 distilled water and prestone) has only been in there for a a few months. And, in that time, it has not been through more than 10-12 full heating/cooling cycles.... I just checked. So really, what we have here, is just a good initial flush.
I see the new coolant as having dissolved some of the accumulated solids, old cleaners and leaking remedies as well as rust.
I’m a little reticent to add or use another strong chemical cleaner but will look into the suggestions now.
I’m thinking of using distilled water and perhaps an over the counter flush once I get all the accumulated crud out of the bottom of the block cooling passages and put back in the new freeze plugs.
So far, it’s all coming out.
The radiator flushed out clean and I have every expectation that the heater core will as well. Remember that the current coolant (50/50 distilled water and prestone) has only been in there for a a few months. And, in that time, it has not been through more than 10-12 full heating/cooling cycles.... I just checked. So really, what we have here, is just a good initial flush.
I see the new coolant as having dissolved some of the accumulated solids, old cleaners and leaking remedies as well as rust.
I’m a little reticent to add or use another strong chemical cleaner but will look into the suggestions now.
I’m thinking of using distilled water and perhaps an over the counter flush once I get all the accumulated crud out of the bottom of the block cooling passages and put back in the new freeze plugs.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Can't believe you put in a heater core and didn't flush it first. 
I did flush it. But, obviously, not nearly enough. That crud was well packed.
I still feel pretty stupid. I should have known better. Thanks for the humbling moment. I needed it.
I still feel pretty stupid. I should have known better. Thanks for the humbling moment. I needed it.
Don't... on a guess, a huge percentage of our old engines have stuff like this in them... unless you go as far as changing out the core plugs, you'll never get it all. Use a hose to help get all you can, picks or whatever to help break it up... then install the new plugs and give her a final flush with distilled... I doubt you got much crap to float free and get into the heater core, but knowing you... I suppose you'll pull it to flush it upside down too.
And the sediment build up in the bottom of the radiator.
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