commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Which reminds me. I'm about due on my house hot water tank...
New to me 78 NYB on its way but please Don't tell my wife
- Thread starter 73 T&C
- Start date
Pretty easy to change with the quick flex pipes.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
That to me is akin to the universal flex radiator hose....
That to me is akin to the universal flex radiator hose....
Yeah.....but I'm not driving the hot water heater. LOL!
And now.... back to the thread...
Ran out at lunch today to get some supplies.... busy busy day but I managed it.
87 cents worth of pure water..., the better to dissolve scale and remove other chemicals it can absorb.
Enough for two good flushes. Planning on using the prestone flush with the distilled water and leave it in for a few heat cycles... then flush it all out
Checked that the new freeze plugs were all in.
new compressor/alternator belt came in..... still too short. Reordered them longer. Will post final Gates number when I get it and it checks out.
Also noticed where it was I could adjust the kick down linkage.
Asked Antonio (Ivan’s minion) to pull the new fuel filter out and blow air through it. Had him do it over a rag. Rag came out clean.
New alternator hung. Why? Because.... base line and ..... it’s shiny.
In and even
Same here
Here’s a sample of the crud we were getting out...
Kick-down linkage adjustment found at the tranny end and not a lot of room for making changes.
Adjusted out 1/8”..... let’s see how that goes.
Waiting on the belts and the motor mounts to come in.
Ran out at lunch today to get some supplies.... busy busy day but I managed it.
87 cents worth of pure water..., the better to dissolve scale and remove other chemicals it can absorb.
Enough for two good flushes. Planning on using the prestone flush with the distilled water and leave it in for a few heat cycles... then flush it all out
Checked that the new freeze plugs were all in.
new compressor/alternator belt came in..... still too short. Reordered them longer. Will post final Gates number when I get it and it checks out.
Also noticed where it was I could adjust the kick down linkage.
Asked Antonio (Ivan’s minion) to pull the new fuel filter out and blow air through it. Had him do it over a rag. Rag came out clean.
New alternator hung. Why? Because.... base line and ..... it’s shiny.
In and even
Same here
Here’s a sample of the crud we were getting out...
Kick-down linkage adjustment found at the tranny end and not a lot of room for making changes.
Adjusted out 1/8”..... let’s see how that goes.
Waiting on the belts and the motor mounts to come in.
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The sludge dries to a fine rust colored dust.
Distilled water and flush is in it now and already almost black with three start and cool down cycles.
Comes out Monday. And new flush goes in.
Distilled water and flush is in it now and already almost black with three start and cool down cycles.
Comes out Monday. And new flush goes in.
Happy Fathers Day!
To all my MF friends on FCBO!
Found this picture that I thought you all may find amusing and appropriate....
To all my MF friends on FCBO!
Found this picture that I thought you all may find amusing and appropriate....
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Bad news today regarding my progress on the NYB. Finished up the last flush today and it came out clean but Ivan noticed a problem.
Seems she’s got a bad head gasket.
Blowing bubbles into cold coolant and super pressurizing the cooling system. He called right away. I will check it in person tomorrow.
Don’t think it’s gotten into the oil yet but I’m pretty sure that was the problem.
The engine obviously had the heads done before I got her. Something must have gone wrong when they did it. I’ll check the torque on the heads but it’s too late I think for that.
It makes sense now with what I’ve been seeing. Starts great cold and as soon as it starts warming up it starts missing and running shitty at idle until it fully warms up.
Just after running the engine on the oscilloscope, it started running hot. Heads run hotter than normal especially the passenger side. Exhaust is just not an effective coolant.
Oh, well. The only good part of this is now it will have heads that I did on it. Did the heads on the wagon two years ago and she's still runs like a Rolls Royce.
What a pain in the ***. But better now than driving to Carlisle.
Seems she’s got a bad head gasket.
Blowing bubbles into cold coolant and super pressurizing the cooling system. He called right away. I will check it in person tomorrow.
Don’t think it’s gotten into the oil yet but I’m pretty sure that was the problem.
The engine obviously had the heads done before I got her. Something must have gone wrong when they did it. I’ll check the torque on the heads but it’s too late I think for that.
It makes sense now with what I’ve been seeing. Starts great cold and as soon as it starts warming up it starts missing and running shitty at idle until it fully warms up.
Just after running the engine on the oscilloscope, it started running hot. Heads run hotter than normal especially the passenger side. Exhaust is just not an effective coolant.
Oh, well. The only good part of this is now it will have heads that I did on it. Did the heads on the wagon two years ago and she's still runs like a Rolls Royce.
What a pain in the ***. But better now than driving to Carlisle.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Well doesn't that really suck the big one.
That's a bummer. I'm sure you'll have the heads swapped in no time.
75LandYacht
Yank Tank
Better to have found it while sitting in a garage then on the road far from home and potentially ruining the whole engine.. you’ll have her back up in no time..
First test no leak.
Put a pressure cap on it and it held 29 lbs for 1 hr 30 min.
Checked the oil. No water, no foam.
Nice and clear.
Ivan put in the orange coolant after the last flush (which was clear)..... he knows not to, that I like the original green, but we would be just testing so it’s ok.
I had a thought as to why he had reported bubbles in the coolant and running really hot at the heads. I had this happen to me before.
I asked him if he filled it when this happened. He said yes. I asked him if it sucked up any coolant after the hot blow off after the heat soak. He said it did but very little. Ok then.
He hadn’t started the car since moving it this morning and filling it with the coolant. I asked how much it took this time. He said “same as before.... about 2-1/2 gallons.” Ok I said. (It takes 3-1/2 gallons btw) ......Astute readers will remember I bought precisely 7 gallons of distilled water for exactly two flushes just 5 days ago.
I then proceeded to remove the top hose and put the pressure testing cap on to it and pump it up a bit, leaving the cap off the radiator to observe the level. It was almost holding with just the slightest loss. Too slight. Ivan asked what I was doing.... I told him it was magic.
I released the pressure and just put my hand over the end of the hose and file d it almost to the top with coolant leaving about 4” and lowered it and raised it a few times giving it a squeeze to help move the slug of coolant in the hose. Held it up to see if I was finished and the hose started to slowly collapse as it slowly drained, finally, through the cleared vent hole in the closed thermostat.
Hooked up the top hose back on to the radiator and very slowly added another 1/2 gallon to the system... right to the rim to see and check for bubbles.
Then I asked Ivan to start it while I checked for bubbles. Sure enough.... a few started coming up but very small. More importantly, the level started dropping in the radiator and I had to keep adding coolant to keep it up to the rim. Then the coolant began to warm and it started to expand in little fits never going over the top and draining quickly to the overflow container. But.... no more bubbles.
Let it run with the A/C on high auto at 65 for about 20 min. to get good and hot and turned it off. Heat soak took the coolant in the reservoir from min to max and no boiling.
Heading back now to check if the system took back the coolant. But it looks like no head gasket issue.
I think he and I both forgot to check if it was really full..... And that the thermostat was allowing it to fill the block to the top and also fill the heads.
Stand by...
Put a pressure cap on it and it held 29 lbs for 1 hr 30 min.
Checked the oil. No water, no foam.
Nice and clear.
Ivan put in the orange coolant after the last flush (which was clear)..... he knows not to, that I like the original green, but we would be just testing so it’s ok.
I had a thought as to why he had reported bubbles in the coolant and running really hot at the heads. I had this happen to me before.
I asked him if he filled it when this happened. He said yes. I asked him if it sucked up any coolant after the hot blow off after the heat soak. He said it did but very little. Ok then.
He hadn’t started the car since moving it this morning and filling it with the coolant. I asked how much it took this time. He said “same as before.... about 2-1/2 gallons.” Ok I said. (It takes 3-1/2 gallons btw) ......Astute readers will remember I bought precisely 7 gallons of distilled water for exactly two flushes just 5 days ago.
I then proceeded to remove the top hose and put the pressure testing cap on to it and pump it up a bit, leaving the cap off the radiator to observe the level. It was almost holding with just the slightest loss. Too slight. Ivan asked what I was doing.... I told him it was magic.
I released the pressure and just put my hand over the end of the hose and file d it almost to the top with coolant leaving about 4” and lowered it and raised it a few times giving it a squeeze to help move the slug of coolant in the hose. Held it up to see if I was finished and the hose started to slowly collapse as it slowly drained, finally, through the cleared vent hole in the closed thermostat.
Hooked up the top hose back on to the radiator and very slowly added another 1/2 gallon to the system... right to the rim to see and check for bubbles.
Then I asked Ivan to start it while I checked for bubbles. Sure enough.... a few started coming up but very small. More importantly, the level started dropping in the radiator and I had to keep adding coolant to keep it up to the rim. Then the coolant began to warm and it started to expand in little fits never going over the top and draining quickly to the overflow container. But.... no more bubbles.
Let it run with the A/C on high auto at 65 for about 20 min. to get good and hot and turned it off. Heat soak took the coolant in the reservoir from min to max and no boiling.
Heading back now to check if the system took back the coolant. But it looks like no head gasket issue.
I think he and I both forgot to check if it was really full..... And that the thermostat was allowing it to fill the block to the top and also fill the heads.
Stand by...
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78Brougham
"Chump"
Snapon has a tool GDCT16 (looks a lot like a turkey baster) is a combustion leak tester, that allows you to "sniff" the head space in your radiator or recovery bottle. It uses a fluid that changes color to indicate whether there is burned gases in the cooling system or not.
Tester, Combustion Leak
I'm surprised you shop guy doesn't have one. They are very handy works on both gas and diesel engines.
Tester, Combustion Leak
I'm surprised you shop guy doesn't have one. They are very handy works on both gas and diesel engines.
System sucked down the reservoir almost to the bottom...
Need to clean it out some more but also least it didn’t suck it down dry.
Still full.
Always something new.... my car is horny.... it has this deep basso horn in the center that I don’t recall being stock. Does anyone know?
New belts in showing good deflection around the idler popping and dinging almost gone. Will confirm size from Ivan tomorrow but I think they are gates 4095
New alternator looking at home.
Need to clean it out some more but also least it didn’t suck it down dry.
Still full.
Always something new.... my car is horny.... it has this deep basso horn in the center that I don’t recall being stock. Does anyone know?
New belts in showing good deflection around the idler popping and dinging almost gone. Will confirm size from Ivan tomorrow but I think they are gates 4095
New alternator looking at home.
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Gotta get me one of those for the shop.
You can buy them almost anywhere... "Block tester" or "Combustion gas tester". Yes, Ivan should definitely have one if he's going to pronounce head gaskets have failed... Unless you have a huge crack or a completely torn out section of the gasket, The bubbles are usually either trapped air or localized boiling.
There are several styles of this tool on the market. They all use the same fluid, which MUST be kept from contamination... I prefer the multi chamber style like Kenny showed... that way if you draw any coolant into the tester, you can clean it out before it ruins the fluid.
The fluid turns from blue to yellow in the presence of high concentrations of CO2. Don't be fooled by anything other than a strong yellow reading... It's easy to see if you draw your breath (cup your hand and exhale) through the tool, once it has color changed to yellow, draw fresh air through it and it will go back to blue. The fluid can be reused, but if contaminated, it will ruin the entire bottle.
Single chamber tools like I've shown are on the shelf at the parts store... their downside is how easily the fluid can be contaminated. The multi chamber tools are very common too.
TECH HINT: on a car with a minor head gasket or hairline crack... you must run until the thermostat opens and enough combustion gas has seeped through to the radiator... you would NEVER see bubbles from this leak, but the tester will show the CO2... It has taken me an hour to PROVE a minor head gasket failure with this tool. It would be faster without a thermostat or even without coolant... but you'd risk creating more problems.
Edit: please flush that orange crap thoroughly when changing the coolant next time. Cross contaminated coolants don't work very well.
Jeff,
In all fairness.... Ivan was just erring on the side of caution and concern. He told me he wasn’t sure but that he wanted me to check it out before he came to any conclusion. I also feared the worst.
I agree that I am not out of the woods just yet.... as a very minor leak would be concealed in the normal cycling of fluid and any trapped exhaust into the overflow reservoir.
If you’ll remember: This car had sat for a very long time with god knows what in its cooling system and also leaking badly at the radiator. My initial fear was (and still is) that the head gasket may have been degraded in that time.
I’ll be picking up a test kit next chance I get. But, for now, my initial suspision that what we were seeing was an incompletely filled cooling system as brought about by a clogged (or partially clogged) vent in the thermostat after all the crud started moving through the system; appears to have been the problem.
First symptoms....
The car had come close to over heating and we saw an enormous amount of crud was beginning to circulate right after the testing I did on the oscilloscope (which is what prompted the flushing). I’m pretty sure this was the longest time I had the engine running continuously after full warm up since I got it. Even the filling and checking of the A/C didn’t take that long. This may have been the catalyst for having the dormant crud to start to enter the system. It was definitely the point at which we started noting some coolant seapage from the freeze plugs which had been holding perfectly tight to that point...... This fact is what is leading me to think that this was also the point where the cooling system may have stopped refilling completely leading to what we were seeing. (Again, all speculation at this point).... these symptoms were: early pressurization of the system prior to opening of the thermostat and higher than normal head temp (230-250) before the thermostat opening were also noted by both Ivan and myself independently.
As I had to be up early this morning, I’m taking the car to get a tag for it (finally!) in prep for full commissioning and to get a new muffler and tail pipe for it. Will be swapping out the cruise control servo today as well. First “free” morning I’ve had in almost a month!
Needless to say, I’ll be watching the cooling system and gauge very very closely as well.... will keep you all posted.... fingers crossed for now.
In all fairness.... Ivan was just erring on the side of caution and concern. He told me he wasn’t sure but that he wanted me to check it out before he came to any conclusion. I also feared the worst.
I agree that I am not out of the woods just yet.... as a very minor leak would be concealed in the normal cycling of fluid and any trapped exhaust into the overflow reservoir.
If you’ll remember: This car had sat for a very long time with god knows what in its cooling system and also leaking badly at the radiator. My initial fear was (and still is) that the head gasket may have been degraded in that time.
I’ll be picking up a test kit next chance I get. But, for now, my initial suspision that what we were seeing was an incompletely filled cooling system as brought about by a clogged (or partially clogged) vent in the thermostat after all the crud started moving through the system; appears to have been the problem.
First symptoms....
The car had come close to over heating and we saw an enormous amount of crud was beginning to circulate right after the testing I did on the oscilloscope (which is what prompted the flushing). I’m pretty sure this was the longest time I had the engine running continuously after full warm up since I got it. Even the filling and checking of the A/C didn’t take that long. This may have been the catalyst for having the dormant crud to start to enter the system. It was definitely the point at which we started noting some coolant seapage from the freeze plugs which had been holding perfectly tight to that point...... This fact is what is leading me to think that this was also the point where the cooling system may have stopped refilling completely leading to what we were seeing. (Again, all speculation at this point).... these symptoms were: early pressurization of the system prior to opening of the thermostat and higher than normal head temp (230-250) before the thermostat opening were also noted by both Ivan and myself independently.
As I had to be up early this morning, I’m taking the car to get a tag for it (finally!) in prep for full commissioning and to get a new muffler and tail pipe for it. Will be swapping out the cruise control servo today as well. First “free” morning I’ve had in almost a month!
Needless to say, I’ll be watching the cooling system and gauge very very closely as well.... will keep you all posted.... fingers crossed for now.
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Getting a new muffler today. Old one was blown.
Punching out the to do list....
Punching out the to do list....
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Long day. Car running well but not spectacularly. I want spectacular.
Starting backward, I ended the day leaning out the carb a little and bringing down the idle a little.
Noticed two things today that I will be looking for tomorrow.
1) Car runs really well when fully warmed up. Initial start is perfect. Starts on first turn of the key... like a modern car. After about 3 minutes, when the enrichment circuit and the choke start coming off, she starts running a little rough at idle but smooths out as soon as you crack the throttle. It also goes away as the engine warms up.
2) brake booster seems to be affecting idle. When I come to a stop I have no issue with the brakes as to power. When I release the brakes, idle drops and brakes get hard if I reapply them. Will be checking it out tomorrow to confirm.
A/c went down today..., short story was a blown fuse on circuit #4 that supplies the power for the compressor. Not so easy fix after much needless testing.
What threw me was that this same circuit also provides power to the amplifier separately from the battery connection. The power drives the servo motor so fan will not change speed and stays on one of the mid level settings...
Muffler is a bit too sporty but very well done. I’ll live with it for a while but will probably change it for something quieter soon.
Tag agency line was too long. Will go for that tomorrow.
Long day tomorrow with a new project presentation to the local aesthetic review board.... at 7:30 in the morning.
Starting backward, I ended the day leaning out the carb a little and bringing down the idle a little.
Noticed two things today that I will be looking for tomorrow.
1) Car runs really well when fully warmed up. Initial start is perfect. Starts on first turn of the key... like a modern car. After about 3 minutes, when the enrichment circuit and the choke start coming off, she starts running a little rough at idle but smooths out as soon as you crack the throttle. It also goes away as the engine warms up.
2) brake booster seems to be affecting idle. When I come to a stop I have no issue with the brakes as to power. When I release the brakes, idle drops and brakes get hard if I reapply them. Will be checking it out tomorrow to confirm.
A/c went down today..., short story was a blown fuse on circuit #4 that supplies the power for the compressor. Not so easy fix after much needless testing.
What threw me was that this same circuit also provides power to the amplifier separately from the battery connection. The power drives the servo motor so fan will not change speed and stays on one of the mid level settings...
Muffler is a bit too sporty but very well done. I’ll live with it for a while but will probably change it for something quieter soon.
Tag agency line was too long. Will go for that tomorrow.
Long day tomorrow with a new project presentation to the local aesthetic review board.... at 7:30 in the morning.
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