New to me 78 NYB on its way but please Don't tell my wife
- Thread starter 73 T&C
- Start date
Found another vacuum leak tonight. A plug on the manifold vacuum port was cracked.
Re-sorted the ignition wires on the passenger side.... Antonio ran them inboard of the alternator when he changed it out for me. No biggie.
Swapped out the coil as the one in there was original and was on my list of suspects for my rough idle. Idle now smooth..... but I’ll need to pull the plugs as they are surely fouled. I’ll have to wait on that until Saturday when I can put it on a lift for the drivers side 5 & 7 plugs.
Should have the fan clutch in soon. I’m pretty sure that will sort the “higher than I like” temp issue.
Need to change out the ghetto fuel line tomorrow. That’s going to be a bit of a challenge.
Re-sorted the ignition wires on the passenger side.... Antonio ran them inboard of the alternator when he changed it out for me. No biggie.
Swapped out the coil as the one in there was original and was on my list of suspects for my rough idle. Idle now smooth..... but I’ll need to pull the plugs as they are surely fouled. I’ll have to wait on that until Saturday when I can put it on a lift for the drivers side 5 & 7 plugs.
Should have the fan clutch in soon. I’m pretty sure that will sort the “higher than I like” temp issue.
Need to change out the ghetto fuel line tomorrow. That’s going to be a bit of a challenge.
Last edited:
Interesting observation today.... car still running smooth and the plugs seem to be clearing.
Idle RPM has now increased to the point I will be dialing it down tonight.
Better burn efficiency????? Plugs clearing???
I’m thinking my latest mpg at 8.75 (all city driving, fairly aggressively, A/C on full blast) was actually pretty good for this old boat. Broke the typical mileage on the wagon. Lets see where that goes....
I’ll keep you all posted.
Idle RPM has now increased to the point I will be dialing it down tonight.
Better burn efficiency????? Plugs clearing???
I’m thinking my latest mpg at 8.75 (all city driving, fairly aggressively, A/C on full blast) was actually pretty good for this old boat. Broke the typical mileage on the wagon. Lets see where that goes....
I’ll keep you all posted.
Last edited:
Ghetto gas line gone!
New insulated line in! Put an insulating reflective sleeve over the line I got from Summit.
Why????
New insulated line in! Put an insulating reflective sleeve over the line I got from Summit.
Why????
Last edited:
Found a carbon track on the inside of the distributor cap. There was a scratch on the inside that had collected carbon dust.
Sanded/ polished the scratch out with some 500 to 1000 to 2000 grit passes.
New cap ordered. Accel mopar cap.
Sanded/ polished the scratch out with some 500 to 1000 to 2000 grit passes.
New cap ordered. Accel mopar cap.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Javier, that is really anal. Incredible.
You should have been a tax accountant.
Yeah... unlike EVERYTHING ELSE he's done here...
He's not that anal, he did leave a sticker off the valve cover.Yeah... unlike EVERYTHING ELSE he's done here...
New fan clutch in..
Behold....new max temp measured at McDonald’s drive thru line. High noon and 90 degrees.
And for you fans of my “anal” approach :
Fan clutch was pre-tested prior to and after. installation as follows:
Thanks Jeff for the recommendation!
Valve on old fanclutch found defective. Stuck.
And finally....,What anal post would be complete without a video after installation.
https://youtu.be/
Various temp readings of which top of the head was most important.
“Anal”ysis and procedure:
Fan was not moving enough air... obviously. It’s summer and ambient temp is about 90*F on average... aggravating condition.
Elevated head temps were permitting localized hot spots and boiling that promoted misfires. Slowing to a stop caused unstable idle. After 30 seconds or so, temp in head rose and A/C condenser heated up also raising head pressure in compressor and load on engine. Rough idle followed soon after as a result.
Shut down heat soak caused some boiling over.
Like Stan, I also thought it might be carbon loading from rich carb. Leaning it out did not help at all.
I then thought: Bad ignition cables (even though new). Checked resistance on all of them.... good. Max resistance was found to be 25000 ohms in longest (#7).
Poor spark? Changed out 40 year old original coil. Better but still.
Then thought... bad gas issue from boiling ethanol... went to non ethanol. (Had similar issue with Citroën). Better but still. Went and changed ghetto fuel line. Last vestige of PO “fixes”.
Plugs still fouled? Now doubt it.
Behold....new max temp measured at McDonald’s drive thru line. High noon and 90 degrees.
And for you fans of my “anal” approach :
Fan clutch was pre-tested prior to and after. installation as follows:
Thanks Jeff for the recommendation!
Valve on old fanclutch found defective. Stuck.
And finally....,What anal post would be complete without a video after installation.
https://youtu.be/
Various temp readings of which top of the head was most important.
“Anal”ysis and procedure:
Fan was not moving enough air... obviously. It’s summer and ambient temp is about 90*F on average... aggravating condition.
Elevated head temps were permitting localized hot spots and boiling that promoted misfires. Slowing to a stop caused unstable idle. After 30 seconds or so, temp in head rose and A/C condenser heated up also raising head pressure in compressor and load on engine. Rough idle followed soon after as a result.
Shut down heat soak caused some boiling over.
Like Stan, I also thought it might be carbon loading from rich carb. Leaning it out did not help at all.
I then thought: Bad ignition cables (even though new). Checked resistance on all of them.... good. Max resistance was found to be 25000 ohms in longest (#7).
Poor spark? Changed out 40 year old original coil. Better but still.
Then thought... bad gas issue from boiling ethanol... went to non ethanol. (Had similar issue with Citroën). Better but still. Went and changed ghetto fuel line. Last vestige of PO “fixes”.
Plugs still fouled? Now doubt it.
Last edited:
Looking for it. !!! Got one???
Last edited:
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Huh???
Typo... “pre-tested”
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Easy.... heat gun, laser thermometer, eyes and arms..... you can figure it out from there ... can’t you?
OK. How do you pre-test a fan clutch??
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Nope. Seriously. I must be missing something.
Fair enough...
The heat gun is used to heat the bi-metallic coil to see if it turns the valve on the front approximately 90 degrees or so when the thermometer reads that the bi-metallic coil is at a temp 20 degrees above your thermostat. If it does, and it turns the valve at the center of the coil, you turn it a few times to see if it starts to build resistance as the silicon fluid is released. If it does, you’ll be able to feel it pretty quickly.
Here’s the best video I’ve seen regarding thermostatically controlled fluid drive fan clutches:
Last edited:
Ain't it great when a plan comes together...
One tech hint, having looked at your video... those cheap IR temp guns shoot a 6" circle when held 12" from an object. The laser is plain ridiculous when you think about it... your readings will have more accuracy when you hold it 1/2" from whatever you want to check.
BTW, pre-testing a fan clutch... very creative, and I did like the idea... for checking an old one. I'm sure its not anal at all to test the new one
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Thanks.
It's the first time I have seen someone actually "pre-test" a new in the box fan clutch.
But, of course. LOL
It's the first time I have seen someone actually "pre-test" a new in the box fan clutch.
But, of course. LOL
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Javier, I'd let you design the world's tallest building to be built with air rights over the San Andres Fault.
I tested the new one because I didn’t test the old one when it was new less than 4 months ago!!! Crap!Ain't it great when a plan comes together...
One tech hint, having looked at your video... those cheap IR temp guns shoot a 6" circle when held 12" from an object. The laser is plain ridiculous when you think about it... your readings will have more accuracy when you hold it 1/2" from whatever you want to check.
BTW, pre-testing a fan clutch... very creative, and I did like the idea... for checking an old one. I'm sure its not anal at all to test the new one
Similar threads
