New torque converter suggestion needed

Biggredd2069

Biggredd2069

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Have a 68 newport 383 4 barrel, mild cam upgrade, dual exhaust. Have a leak in my torque converter and have a shop that will swap a new one in for free as a courtesy for some other work done on my transmission there. This is not the same shop I had carburetor issue at. Lol. I mainly an using this as a local cruiser with minimal highway. I like to red light gun it. Is there any upgrade I can do over stock ? Higher stall ? Not familiar with converter upgrades and what does what.
 
The torque converter itself is leaking?
The front seal, yes. How is the converter leaking?
 
Honestly I don't know. They said that's where my leak is coming from and they'll do the labor free, just need a new converter. I Sound like an amateur right now. Lol
 
If the front seal is so bad it has damaged converter, it would be gushing fluid. Honestly, if they told me I needed a converter cause it’s leaking I’d walk away. Free or not, something stinks.
 
To answer your question...a Light stall like 2350/2500 RPM will work great in a heavy car with mild cam. Stock normally will flash at 1800 RPM
What are your rear gear ratio and tire size??

Yeah how is the converter leaking? 5/6 drain plug? (that's if it is the original factory convertor.)
I had seen people where they get a weighted converter for an externally balanced engine and knock the weights off to work on the internally balance engine and put a hole or crack on the converter. Some are lucky to weld the hole, some are not.
All 727's from 66 up to 78?? shared the same input shaft before the lock up trans showed up.
it is easy to get the wrong converter even though it will still bolt up.
All big block trans basically the same but the converter for a 400(externally balanced) is different than a 383 (internally balanced) converter.
 
904 converter cracks were common as sea salt. don't think i've ever seen a 727 crack. if it leaks from the bell while sitting for overnight or longer periods, it's the pump seal not the front seal. although if so, both would be done while apart. and of course check the pump bushing for copper showing. any copper, it's n.f.g. all relatively easy repairs.
 
With your probable gear ratio (2.something) and way over stock tire size, a high stall might be getting hot because it will be stalling all the time.
 
I called them back, they said there is a hole in it causing fluid to leak. I had them pull the whole transmission about a month ago to fix gaskets and leaks
 
Biggredd2069 said:
I called them back, they said there is a hole in it causing fluid to leak. I had them pull the whole transmission about a month ago to fix gaskets and leaks
Click to expand...
I’ve got to say, with all due respect, I hope you’ve got deep pockets. From what I’ve seen you’ve done nothing but throw money in the wrong direction on this car and these people who you have working on it shouldn’t be.
 
so again you paid to have leaks repaired but received your vehicle still leaking? i cant see a repair shop pulling a tranny, opening it up, servicing it, and installing it, knowing that they're doing so with damaged major component that could cause the entire unit to fail! have you considered starting a new thread asking members here for a recommendation of a repair shop in your area? agree with above, the hole is going to be in your wallet.
 
Biggredd2069 said:
Have a leak in my torque converter and have a shop that will swap a new one in for free as a courtesy for some other work done on my transmission there
Click to expand...
Translation: We've messed up something and are going to attempt to fix it under the guise we are doing you a favor.
It's very suspicious. Like @rags said, look for some recommendations.
 
What gaskets were they changing to require removal of the transmission? The front pump seal is all there is between the engine and transmission as far as gaskets. Then a month later a hole appears in the converter?
I’ve never heard of a 727 converter developing any leak short of catastrophic failure, much less get a hole popped in it somehow.
Again, with all due respect and wishing you nothing but the best,, I honestly think you’re in way over your head.
You need to find a honest mechanic with the heart of a teacher to go over your car and explain to you what going on with it.
Taking it to these yay- who’s and having them molest it out behind the barn then coming here afterwards for advice is counterproductive to say the least! Again, best wishes.
 
A727 convertor leaks from the actual body of the convertor are rare. Usually if they leak it is because the threads on the drain plug are stripped preventing a good seat. The other main cause of bell leaking is that somebody beat the weights off the convertor and cracked the bell. Much more likely to be a front pump seal or the pump o-ring that is leaking. I agree with the above posts that it does not sound like you have competent people doing the repairs. Replacing the convertor will probably stop the leak if the convertor is bad, but it will not help if the pump is leaking because of a faulty reseal job.

Dave
 
If it’s had the weights beat off of it and that’s what is causing the leak then I myself would be suspicious of all prior work that has been done to the car.
The pics I’ve seen under the hood looks like someone should be facing vandalism charges. Time to slow down, re-evaluate, find a reputable mechanic and have them go over the whole car.
Think big picture. Or it’s going to get expensive, and still not be trustworthy.
 
I'm going to different shops. Both recommended places so my effort is there trying to take it to reputable people. Whether or not the outcome is that way is different. Hard to find the time to keep taking it to different places and pay for another evaluation and repair when you've done some effort to go to the right place the first time. These are different places for different reasons. Just trying to get leaks stopped and be a reliable daily driver if I want to. The money I've spent so far hasnt been too far off what I budgeted specifically for this. Might be hard to prove they damaged my converter on a 50 year old car. II this repair keeps it more reliable going forward and gets my end result there could be worse situations otherwise.
 
I ain’t bashing you man. It’s more of an intervention. They wouldn’t have beat the weight off of it if it had one.
It’s sounds fishy. The discussion speculating how your converter is leaking could go on for days. Is your engine really a 383? Or is it a 400? Do you know how to tell? Do you know which one is internally balanced? Why would someone remove a balance weight from a 727 converter? What does this line of questioning have to do with it?
Short of drilling a hole in the converter on purpose a person would be hard pressed to damage it putting gaskets on stuff.
And The guy with the 450 HP engine and a B&M 2500 converter? That works great on his application. Have a look at his set up. His accessory bracket and pulley system cost more than my car is worth.
Not to mention the engine cost more than yours is worth. That justifies his converter selection.
 
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