TroyCo
Active Member
Yep. Definitely the NSS. Getting tired of these setbacks 
New Wiring Harness Options
- Thread starter TroyCo
- Start date
Such is life with our old cars sometimes.
Did you get things sorted with the Vreg? What was the issue?
Did you get things sorted with the Vreg? What was the issue?
TroyCo
Active Member
I disseminated as much as I could from the wiring diagrams, combined them and got what I hope will make the car run. I am putting together a jumper wire to bypass the NSS until I can locate a replacement. At this point in time, I just need to see if she'll stay running and/or not burn to a crisp.
...and see if it's charging properly. Good luck, and keep us posted!
TroyCo
Active Member
SHE'S ALIVE!
TroyCo
Active Member
So far, so good.
TroyCo
Active Member
So, the takeaway:
-The fuel gauge seems to no longer work. I'll throw some gas in it later to see if that moves or not.
-The SW oil pressure gauge seems to be wonky. When at idle, it reads 100, 75 on fast idle. I'll wait until it's fully warmed up during a drive before I make a verdict.
-Both the ammeter and voltmeter gauges seem to be functioning correctly.
-Alternator charged without issue.
-None of the wires felt hot while it was running.
-Needs a neutral safety switch.
Glad to have the ol' girl running again. Once I get a NSS, I'll take it on a shakedown run.
A special thanks to Ross Wooldridge, Big_John and cbarge for all your help. You all definitely made one of my least favourite jobs that much easier. You guys are Legends.
-The fuel gauge seems to no longer work. I'll throw some gas in it later to see if that moves or not.
-The SW oil pressure gauge seems to be wonky. When at idle, it reads 100, 75 on fast idle. I'll wait until it's fully warmed up during a drive before I make a verdict.
-Both the ammeter and voltmeter gauges seem to be functioning correctly.
-Alternator charged without issue.
-None of the wires felt hot while it was running.
-Needs a neutral safety switch.
Glad to have the ol' girl running again. Once I get a NSS, I'll take it on a shakedown run.
A special thanks to Ross Wooldridge, Big_John and cbarge for all your help. You all definitely made one of my least favourite jobs that much easier. You guys are Legends.
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I just have a big mouth... but thanks!
FYI, the charging system should not keep charging at that level for more than 30 seconds or so if the battery was in good shape, unless it was run down.
The needle should settle back to a tick above the middle for most running conditions.
Has it settled down?
FYI, the charging system should not keep charging at that level for more than 30 seconds or so if the battery was in good shape, unless it was run down.
The needle should settle back to a tick above the middle for most running conditions.
Has it settled down?
TroyCo
Active Member
Yeah, I took those pics after I fired it up, while on fast idle. It all settled down at normal idle.
Great! Congrats!
Just thinking though, if the charge needle moves like a tach needle with engine rpm, then there is an issue in there somewhere...
Even on fast idle it should settle down.
If it stays generally settled down though, you're OK.
Just thinking though, if the charge needle moves like a tach needle with engine rpm, then there is an issue in there somewhere...
Even on fast idle it should settle down.
If it stays generally settled down though, you're OK.
TroyCo
Active Member
Pro tip: when putting your instrument cluster back together, be sure to plug it in first. 
Original fuel and temp gauges are working correctly now. However, the car is now charging around 15 volts. I figure I hooked the ballast resistor up wrong, that's where I'm starting first.
Original fuel and temp gauges are working correctly now. However, the car is now charging around 15 volts. I figure I hooked the ballast resistor up wrong, that's where I'm starting first.
Hmmm... see if you have draw at the battery with the key off and doors closed etc.
If so, that could be the cause of what's cueing the alternator to charge. If nothing, see if there's a draw with the key in and ignition on, or in the accessory position.
If something shows up, start pulling fuses until it goes away, and then you've got your bad circuit.
I'm not sure how the ballast could affect the charging system - @Big_John - any insight?
Also, if it's old, it could be the regulator itself. Try swapping out with a known good one.
If so, that could be the cause of what's cueing the alternator to charge. If nothing, see if there's a draw with the key in and ignition on, or in the accessory position.
If something shows up, start pulling fuses until it goes away, and then you've got your bad circuit.
I'm not sure how the ballast could affect the charging system - @Big_John - any insight?
Also, if it's old, it could be the regulator itself. Try swapping out with a known good one.
TroyCo
Active Member
The regulator is new. A digital replacement from Furygt. I misinterpreted the wiring diagram. I swapped a couple of wires around and now it's settled down considerably. However, now I doubt whether or not I got that correct..... Here's a diagram of how I have it currently:
I saw this and thought that it meant to have a jumper wire in between the two. Because that was the kind of madness going on previously.
I hate wiring diagrams. To be clear, they're not dumb, I am. They are my Kryptonite.
Here's a diagram of how I have it currently:I saw this and thought that it meant to have a jumper wire in between the two. Because that was the kind of madness going on previously.
I hate wiring diagrams. To be clear, they're not dumb, I am. They are my Kryptonite.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Just look at it for an hour, it'll come to you.The regulator is new. A digital replacement from Furygt. I misinterpreted the wiring diagram. I swapped a couple of wires around and now it's settled down considerably. However, now I doubt whether or not I got that correct.....
View attachment 466117
I saw this and thought that it meant to have a jumper wire in between the two. Because that was the kind of madness going on previously.
View attachment 466125
I hate wiring diagrams. To be clear, they're not dumb, I am. They are my Kryptonite.
I used to dislike them, now I love the FSM diagrams. Saved me a few times, super helpful.
TroyCo
Active Member
Amp gauge is reading correctly now. I had the wires mixed up on the alternator. That's what happens when you are working on your car past your bedtime. The only gauge giving me concern now is the new oil pressure gauge. It's reading between 75-100 psi. I need to do some more troubleshooting.
Keep us posted!
TroyCo
Active Member
Update time.
I took the car for its longest drive since updating the harness and gauges to drop the car off to get the axle bearings replaced, and I noticed all the SW gauges were acting funny. Apparently the engine makes 100 psi oil pressure, the alternator charges 17-18 volts and the engine gets up to 230 degrees f all while the car is cruising at 2200 rpms. However, once stopped, the temp miraculously cools to 150, and the voltage drops to 13 volts. Oil pressure stays pegged.
Now I can understand if one gauge is funny, but not all 3. I think it has to be a power issue, or more accurately, where it's getting it's power from. I have the power for the gauges tapped into the same wire I'm pulling power for the tach. If memory serves, I ran that wire behind the fuse block, to the main power terminal. Any ideas? Does it sound like I'm onto something?
I took the car for its longest drive since updating the harness and gauges to drop the car off to get the axle bearings replaced, and I noticed all the SW gauges were acting funny. Apparently the engine makes 100 psi oil pressure, the alternator charges 17-18 volts and the engine gets up to 230 degrees f all while the car is cruising at 2200 rpms. However, once stopped, the temp miraculously cools to 150, and the voltage drops to 13 volts. Oil pressure stays pegged.
Now I can understand if one gauge is funny, but not all 3. I think it has to be a power issue, or more accurately, where it's getting it's power from. I have the power for the gauges tapped into the same wire I'm pulling power for the tach. If memory serves, I ran that wire behind the fuse block, to the main power terminal. Any ideas? Does it sound like I'm onto something?
Ditch 'em (said he helpfully). Your factory gauges and oil light are all you need in my opinion.
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LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
My oil light let me know I needed to top off before I left work.
TroyCo
Active Member
As it turns out, I have two of the three issues figured out. The alternator was overcharging, diagnosed it to be a bad alternator. Installed a new one. Now it charges properly. The other issue was the temp gauge, turns out there was a pretty bad air lock in the cooling system, burped the bejeezus out of it, no issues there now either. Now for the oil pressure. I need to check the oil pressure mechanically, as well I'm going to try another gauge.
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