New Wiring Harness Options

[TroyCo]

Update time.

I changed the oil this evening hoping the thicker viscosity was throwing off the oil pressure.

It wasn't.

Checked the drained oil and cut open the filter, full of both chunks of steel and fine bearing material. So my worst fears have come to pass, the oil galleries are likely plugged up with the same crud that was sitting in the filter and pan. The engine is eating itself alive. Next will be a compression test to see how bad things really are. Either way, time for a new motor.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

That's a shame.

 

[TroyCo]

Its funny how this started out as an electrical thread and has evolved (or devolved) into a mechanical one, but honestly, I don't see the point in starting another thread for another update. So here goes.

Since the last update, I ended up replacing the oil pump, which solved the high oil pressure I was having. I also swapped out the electrical oil & temp gauges for mechanical ones. I had a hard time trusting the elec. o/p gauge after swapping pumps, the gauge wasn't consistent with a mechanical unit I had temporarily installed. Anyways, it seemed as though everything was dialed in perfectly. The oil pressure read between 35-50 psi and the coolant never went above 180 on the day I had it out to do a shakedown run. Things were looking up. When suddenly, while idling at a red light, the car just died, never to start again. When I tried to crank it over, I could immediately tell the engine's timing was off. I suspected either the chain was stretched, or the gear broke. Here's what I found:

I believe the photo says it all. Also explains the crap I found in my oil. Better than the outcome I was expecting. The compression was decent, for a 40+ year old engine. A new Comp Cams unit is inbound. I'm optimistic once the chain and gears are replaced, it'll be alright. But I'm still going to scope the cylinders to see if there is any damage internally. While I'm at it, I'll inspect the pushrods as well. Any one else encounter anything similar to this? I'd be interested to hear.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Yikes...

 

[Bill ward]

For all those who may be thinking of rewireing your car check out Kwikwire.com , I've decided to go with them, a winter project.

 

[Gerald Morris]

For all those who may be thinking of rewireing your car check out Kwikwire.com , I've decided to go with them, a winter project.

DON'T do it Bill! I looked at their offerings, and they're wrong for our old rides. They're also badly overpriced. Did you see the way they then charge yet again for "Add-ons" like "4 headlights?" If you use this sort of product, you will STILL have to heavily adapt it to your machine, spending plenty more time and $$ to do that.

Instead, buy a new fuse block, MEANT for your Fury. They can be had, with fuse clips, for about $90. You can then purchase several reels of primary wire, in the appropriate colors for most of the circuits, for $6-10 per roll. These will be probably 15'-50' in length, longer for thinner wire. You can get bigger rolls again with a little effort searching.

Breakers and relays can be had too. I like the Tyco-Bosch relays, NOS, and these function also as overcurrent protection. The headlights certainly work better with relay switching the power, which can then be fed straight from the battery to a relay bank, close by, in #12 or 10 AWG wire. The wiper motor also can be fed by a pair of relays if you like. I SHOULD revise my own for this.... Of course, a 2 speed isn't too bad, but a 3 speed motor would require 3 relays or multi-poled switchable ones. Depends on how much one uses windshield wipers there.

But that's a digression!

You can also replace the infamous BULKHEAD or just the clips if you like, for less than or about $100.

All told, you can do a GREAT JOB, restoring the original wiring harness and circuitry, with enhancements, for the same $ spent as this stuff from Kwikwire.com, and have a much better system, meant for your car.

Others in this Forum might advise you about how to lay out a harness on a board, to precisely match the lengths, and tape of the old harness. I don't need to do that, but for folks who can't carry schematics in their heads, this approach works.

Don't spend your bread yet man. You really can do better.

 

[Bill ward]

I haven't invested in it yet. When it comes to elc, wiring I'm not so good ,so I was looking for something that might make it easier.

 

[LocuMob]

I haven't invested in it yet. When it comes to elc, wiring I'm not so good ,so I was looking for something that might make it easier.

It's simple on our cars, the Factory Service Manual has the diagrams to help you out. Get one if you haven't already.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I haven't invested in it yet. When it comes to elc, wiring I'm not so good ,so I was looking for something that might make it easier.

I figured you aren't an electrical adept, like me. Few are. This is why I re-iterate my warning about the stuff you linked to. That modern **** won't do you the slightest good on an old treasure like your Fury.

Here: Start with this stuff if you want some pre-made stuff:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/363483660665?hash=item54a1508179:g:9doAAOSwRUpgNV3t

https://www.ebay.com/itm/401901352438?hash=item5d932ff5f6:g:VZMAAOSwQjldjSEu

OR, if you feel up to the challenge, just replace the clips in your OLD fuse block with these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/402390764220?hash=item5db05bcabc:g:Q6oAAOSwwiFg01LV

THERE! Ready made, NEW wiring systems for YOUR FURY EXIST!

Now, WHY BUY GENERIC MODERN **** MADE BY ASIATIC SLAVE LABOR THAT HAS ZERO INTEREST IN YOUR AUTOMOBILE?

Bill, you really will spend less time, pull less hair, bleed less from any ulcers by carefully shopping for OEM replacement stuff for your wiring harness than ANY mod generic bundle of copper and vinyl with cheap plastic fuses which are NOT TESTED TO ANY KNOWN ENGINEERING QUALITY!

Glass fuses by contrast were designed and supervised in that by bodies such as the Society of Fuse Engineers. Stick with those, and preferably get yourself NEW OLD STOCK in this too.

Mind you, I really am a born adept at wiring ****, and started doing it before kindergarten, so my perspective veers sharply away from the statistical norm of even this nation, formerly described by de Tocqueville as a "nation of mechanics" though NOW I suspect "nest of ninnies" would be more apt. But, I sympathize PLENTY with a man seeking to minimize his pain from needless labor. Above all, AVOID PAINLESS WIRING PRODUCTS for the very reason that they're NOT!

Take plenty time, study your system from the FSM and other official MoPar omenclature, and carefully search out the proper replacement parts, like a new bulkhead if you need one perhaps. (I prefer just eliminating tHAT, and replacing it with either straight feeds through or a terminal block. Other options such as moving a fuse block to the engine compartment, in an easily accessible locus come to mind too. For THAT, and good generic glass fuse terminal block will do nicely. I have several I've horded over the years, even while homeless. some **** I just gotta have man.

Your BEST Resource is THIS FORUM. I don't tell you to emulate MY practices per se, as I do stuff meant for MY talents and tastes, but there are plenty Older Moparians than myself who can steer you true, yet still within what I advise; stick with OEM circuit elements and harness materials as much as possible.