Pulling rear drum on my 57 Belvedere, which one?

[Just Carbs]

The newer one-piece axle has no brake servicing advantage over the tapered axle once the drums are divorced from the tapered hub. And the newer drums from the one-piece axle cars fit the tapered axle cars. As in the nice big finned 72 New Yorker rear drums that are readily available and affordable at the corner store that fit the 64 tapered axle hub.
And servicing the bearings of the tapered axle can be performed at home much easier than the one-piece axle. No press needed.
And a pair of one-piece axles, bearings, bearing retainer collars, bearing retainer plates, and seals ain't free either.
Oh, and did I mention that the tapered axle "cannot" go bouncing down the road without the rest of the car attached like the one piece can. I'm certainly glad that to lose a one-piece axle is a rear occurrence.
As for the rear brakes being better enough to stop the car better? Either you got the big 11-3/4 disc upgrade installed up front, or you don't. You either got what it takes to stand the car on its nose, or you don't.
However, since new tapered hubs and axles are no longer available, I do resort to new one-piece axle conversions from time to time. Works just fine. Only cost about a grand all in.

 

[57fury440]

I would leave the tapered axles if I was going for 100% originality otherwise put them on the junk pile. It is a fairly cheap conversion. You can use your existing center section so you can keep the gears you already have. You can get the axle housings with the axles and backing plates pretty cheap if you look around.

 

[Fireflite56]

Those tapered axles are literally no problem whatsoever with the proper puller. The Fairbanks puller makes the job as simple as bolting it on, snugging the studs and the drum pops off - even on a parts car. It's people trying to use the wrong puller or beating on it with a hammer that gives the tapered axles such a bad reputation and results in damaged parts. Like many things, swapping axles has become considered an "upgrade" more out of misconception and lack of proper tools and knowledge. Unless you are modifying your car and have a specific need for a different rear end, it's best to leave the stock stuff alone and spend $100 on the proper puller. It's way more work and money to swap the axles and, as pointed out, the newer style comes with its own drawbacks.

 

[Dan Scully]

60 years later still works fine.

 

[DCMC]

My father a auto mechanic since the 30's would yell at my brother and I when we would use a 10 lb brass Victory hammer and smack the threaded shaft of the puller to release the drum from the tapered shaft. We never knew why he would, it worked everytime with no damage to anything.