Pulling rear drum on my 57 Belvedere, which one?

[Just Carbs]

The newer one-piece axle has no brake servicing advantage over the tapered axle once the drums are divorced from the tapered hub. And the newer drums from the one-piece axle cars fit the tapered axle cars. As in the nice big finned 72 New Yorker rear drums that are readily available and affordable at the corner store that fit the 64 tapered axle hub.
And servicing the bearings of the tapered axle can be performed at home much easier than the one-piece axle. No press needed.
And a pair of one-piece axles, bearings, bearing retainer collars, bearing retainer plates, and seals ain't free either.
Oh, and did I mention that the tapered axle "cannot" go bouncing down the road without the rest of the car attached like the one piece can. I'm certainly glad that to lose a one-piece axle is a rear occurrence.
As for the rear brakes being better enough to stop the car better? Either you got the big 11-3/4 disc upgrade installed up front, or you don't. You either got what it takes to stand the car on its nose, or you don't.
However, since new tapered hubs and axles are no longer available, I do resort to new one-piece axle conversions from time to time. Works just fine. Only cost about a grand all in.

 

[57fury440]

I would leave the tapered axles if I was going for 100% originality otherwise put them on the junk pile. It is a fairly cheap conversion. You can use your existing center section so you can keep the gears you already have. You can get the axle housings with the axles and backing plates pretty cheap if you look around.

 

[Fireflite56]

Those tapered axles are literally no problem whatsoever with the proper puller. The Fairbanks puller makes the job as simple as bolting it on, snugging the studs and the drum pops off - even on a parts car. It's people trying to use the wrong puller or beating on it with a hammer that gives the tapered axles such a bad reputation and results in damaged parts. Like many things, swapping axles has become considered an "upgrade" more out of misconception and lack of proper tools and knowledge. Unless you are modifying your car and have a specific need for a different rear end, it's best to leave the stock stuff alone and spend $100 on the proper puller. It's way more work and money to swap the axles and, as pointed out, the newer style comes with its own drawbacks.

 

[Dan Scully]

60 years later still works fine.

 

[DCMC]

My father a auto mechanic since the 30's would yell at my brother and I when we would use a 10 lb brass Victory hammer and smack the threaded shaft of the puller to release the drum from the tapered shaft. We never knew why he would, it worked everytime with no damage to anything.

 

[JimmyG]

Regarding the "newer" axles "sliding" out, not on a Mopar. There are 5 studs and nuts holding them in place, per axle on each side. I have seen many a GM axle make such an annoying maneuver! Even on Chrysler 9.25 axle in the 70's when they had that internal clip, I never saw one do the slide out departure dance.

 

[ynst]

Hard to find a decent puller. I bought a new Chinesium one that looked pretty good for the task.... it barely worked to bolt onto the hub the fingers were so fat. Even at that, I thought IT was going to explode before the hubs finally came off. You need to find an old BLUE POINT, SNAP-ON or some other old school tool company version to do the job.

As far as auto parts go, I've never had good luck with amazon...some tools and other stuff, yes, but auto parts....not so good.

OTC Tools 7394 OTC Universal Hub Pullers | Summit Racing

Converting early taper axles/hubs to use later removable brake drums and all RH lug studs.

Dorman 19382, 1-1/8" bore...fits all four corners....can be found at Rockauto

Amazon has the OTC 7394 as well with the same price as the Summit AND next day free delivery for Prime members

 

[Rusty Muffler]

Amazon has the OTC 7394 as well with the same price as the Summit AND next day free delivery for Prime members

I just used Les Fairbanks puller ($110,shipped) and it worked great. It's not universal, but is the most definitive way to go on your Mopar, and you don't have to pound on it, just tighten the 5 bolts and pop!

 

[kmccabe56]

I, am in So Cal 92308, I have the right one and if you have no other options bring it down and we can pop them off.



View attachment 667830

I bought my puller that looks exactly like this (except without the fancy storage box). Install it. Tighten everything up and wind the center screw in as far as you can. If the drum still won't come off, a good whack on the end of the center screw with a sledge will pop it off and sound like a gun went off. I've had them like that, and I've had them that I could turn off by hand.

 

[Just Carbs]

Regarding the "newer" axles "sliding" out, not on a Mopar. There are 5 studs and nuts holding them in place, per axle on each side. I have seen many a GM axle make such an annoying maneuver! Even on Chrysler 9.25 axle in the 70's when they had that internal clip, I never saw one do the slide out departure dance.

The pressed-on interference fit bearing retaining collar is the only thing holding the bearing on the axle.
The five nuts bearing retainer plate hold the bearing and collar in the housing. They don't hold the axle on the bearing. The axle slides out of the housing and leaves the bearing and collar in the housing.

 

[GSPointer]

Les Fairbank's Hub Puller View attachment 667760

On my '64 Imperial, I got both fronts and the drinkers rear off using the OTC Universal Hub Puller 7394. My drivers side rear seems to be welded on.

It looks to me like Les Fairbank's will be the hot ticket puller so I'm making one up. It will be nice to finally re-tighten my shaft nut!

 

[57fury440]

The newer axles make it easier to do the rear brakes. You do not need any special puller as the rear drums will just pull off. Mopar used these for years without any axles flying out. I've had quite a few of these over the years and have never seen that happen. Like I said earlier, if I wanted to keep it all original then the old tapered would stay. If I was not concerned about being 100% original and was keeping the car, then they would go.