So I want to have a 440 built....

[moper]

If the car is drag raced less than 2 trips to the track a year I use the rpm at 50mph as the "stay below" in terms of convertor choice. Too low might make it a little slower to get moving from a dead stop, but won't hurt you anywhere else. In a C body, it's my opinion that the best case would be a unit built for your application. If you're at 2600 at 80, that's probably around 1800 at 50. The factory high stall unit would probably be enogh for you. If not, a 10.5" tight stalling around 2-2200 would be good. If you want a car to get up moving quicker, run a deeper rear gear and accept the other things that come with it. Don;t put in a slippery convertor. That's just a recipe for disappointment.

 

[Russ]

Don't forget the 440 motor home blocks and all later cast crank block are thinner walled and can't take the torque of the older blocks. The cylinder wall is thinner so it limits the amount of over size you can go with the bore.

 

[commando1]

Don't forget the 440 motor home blocks and all later cast crank block are thinner walled and can't take the torque of the older blocks. The cylinder wall is thinner so it limits the amount of over size you can go with the bore.

 

[The Horvaths]

Don't forget the 440 motor home blocks and all later cast crank block are thinner walled and can't take the torque of the older blocks. The cylinder wall is thinner so it limits the amount of over size you can go with the bore.

This is proven to be false. In fact, in many cases these blocks are thicker.

 

[moper]

Yeah, later blocks are more consistent in terms of wall thickness which in most cases means they are thicker in the right spots. It's my understanding that the later iron is better quality as compared to the earlier stuff too although I've never tested that. All blocks suffer from a strong potential of the same core shift problems.

 

[carrman]

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Hey Stan, didn't realize these guys are just up the freeway from me by 130 miles.

 

[BigFury]

Don't forget the 440 motor home blocks and all later cast crank block are thinner walled and can't take the torque of the older blocks. The cylinder wall is thinner so it limits the amount of over size you can go with the bore.

That's been proven to be a myth. Go to the 440 Source website. The have a really comprehensive article on Mopar B/RB blocks. Basically there are no "thin wall" blocks.

 

[carrman]

Guys, how will I know if I need a new power steer pump or alternator mount going from the 383 to the 440? How about kick down linkage, do I need to change it?

 

[65Fury440]

Power steering will work on either, the difference is block height. Your alternator bracket may, or may not have both holes to accept either engine.

 

[carrman]

Well I thought I had a forged crank 440, but the block had a couple of bores pitted so bad they needed sleeved. What the shop DID have was a few 400 blocks laying around. So, that 440 crank and rods are going into a 400 block and I'll have a 451. Machine shop will dyno and tune it for me, and recurve the dizzy as needed. 3500-4000 in cost.

 

[Russ]

I heard the 400 / 440 setup is a good combination.

 

[moper]

Cool. Cheap money for a dyno'd engine though. Make sure the parts being used are of some quality and they are actually replacing everything.

 

[carrman]

Cool. Cheap money for a dyno'd engine though. Make sure the parts being used are of some quality and they are actually replacing everything.

Very reputable local shop.

 

[carrman]

As of today my 400 block magnafluxed good, and it got hot tanked. The build continues.

 

[carrman]

Just an update, transmission is rebuilt, shop told me they don't know how it worked as good as it did as everything in it or on it that was rubber was petrified! Got a 2100-2400 rpm stall converter. 383 is out and at the machine shop being harvested for parts.

 

[moper]

Cool

 

[carrman]

 

[carrman]

View attachment 118580 View attachment 118581

My 400 block being bored .30 over. Heads have been cc'd, 85.5 cc combustion chambers.

 

[Zwap]

...A well built 383 with 3.23 gears will make you smile. It will run 1,800 RPM at 70 mph...

I may be missing something here but isn't the formular MPH*Gear Ratio*336 divided by the tall of the tire?
In that case 70mph*3.23*336=75969,6 divided by, let's say 27" tires= about 2.800rpm
1,800 rpm at 70 mph needs about 43" tires or a gear ratio about 2.10 with 27" tires

 

[The Horvaths]

I may be missing something here but isn't the formular MPH*Gear Ratio*336 divided by the tall of the tire?
In that case 70mph*3.23*336=75969,6 divided by, let's say 27" tires= about 2.800rpm
1,800 rpm at 70 mph needs about 43" tires or a gear ratio about 2.10 with 27" tires

You're right. It was a typo.