So I want to have a 440 built....

I wasnt making fun of you, laughing with you! Lol

But before we go recommending short gears and a high stall converter...lets talk about what that sacrifices on the other end.

Will it accelerate better? Yes. But your cruise rpm will be increased also. So less gas mileage, and a harder churning engine. A stall converter would snap better off the line...but would also slip more. So thats more trans heat.... c body's are big cruisers...lets not start building a bracket car here.

Do you think the heavy C-Bodies (78 NYB) would need a 2500 stall converter to get the car moving with your stroker motor?
 
I went thru everything you are going thru with my 66 newyorker. I drive my car the 75 miles to the track, bolt on the dragradials, make some runs, bolt the street tires on and drive it home. I drive it year round.

This is what i built.

505 stroker, stock stealths, full TTI exhaust, 830 quick fuel, performer RPM
Comp hydraulic roller XR280HR-10
2800 Stall
4767lbs race weight
3:23 gear with detroit locker
275/60/15 M&H racemaster drag radials©17.5 psi (first run)- 12.5psi(last 2 runs)
Caltracs.

1st run 12.84©104.43, 60' 1.782
2dr run 12.90©103.16, 60' 1.754
3rd run 12.80©103.95, 60' 1.761

My buddy videoed the runs for me
 
Stan, do I need a different stall converter for my build?
I highly recommend, if you have the extra coin, at least a 2500 stall. I don't know if a 2700 is better or not. Others will chime in but remember to make cam to cam comparisons regarding what stall.
The factory had a 2500 available on certain HP apps. I could never find a factory one tho...
 
I went thru everything you are going thru with my 66 newyorker. I drive my car the 75 miles to the track, bolt on the dragradials, make some runs, bolt the street tires on and drive it home. I drive it year round.

This is what i built.

505 stroker, stock stealths, full TTI exhaust, 830 quick fuel, performer RPM
Comp hydraulic roller XR280HR-10
2800 Stall
4767lbs race weight
3:23 gear with detroit locker
275/60/15 M&H racemaster drag radials©17.5 psi (first run)- 12.5psi(last 2 runs)
Caltracs.

1st run 12.84©104.43, 60' 1.782
2dr run 12.90©103.16, 60' 1.754
3rd run 12.80©103.95, 60' 1.761

My buddy videoed the runs for me

That's a nice build, that chassis and drive line is really working well with a 1.7 60' a 12.80 and only 104 mph trap speed all with 3.23.
 
Ok another stupid question. What does having a higher stall converter do for me?
Basically, it acts like you are dumping a clutch when you mash the gas. So, say your stall is 3,000 rpm; if you mash the gas the engine will rev to 3,000 rpm and then transfer power to the wheels at said 3,000 rpm. (Same as if you hold the clutch, rev to 3,000 and then dumped the clutch.)
Another way to put it; if you wanted peak power at launch, and peak power was at 4,000 rpm, you would use a 4,000 rpm stall.
 
Since hotter cams have less power at lower RPMs than mild cams, it allows the engine to rev to a higher RPM from idle before launching the car.
That's a super oversimplification.

While sitting at idle, step on the brake as hard as possible. And slowly raIse the RPM until it stalls. That's your stall figure.

Best to read the stuff on the internet about torque converters. It's not simply, If This, Then That.
 
Do you think the heavy C-Bodies (78 NYB) would need a 2500 stall converter to get the car moving with your stroker motor?
Yes, A Matched torque converter for sure. If it were being purchased through me, I'd run all the numbers like rear gears, weight, cam specs, hp, etc. and then we'd match one to your setup. Thats a big step most forget. There is no such thing as a "2500 stall converter".... There may be a converter that happens to stall at 2500 when its installed in a SPECIFIC CAR....but the same converter behind a smaller engine, or one with different rear gears...with behave like a completely different animal.
 
There is no such thing as a "2500 stall converter".... There may be a converter that happens to stall at 2500 when its installed in a SPECIFIC CAR....but the same converter behind a smaller engine, or one with different rear gears...with behave like a completely different animal.
Agreed. Thus my emphasis to Carrman:
Best to read the stuff on the internet about torque converters. It's not simply, If This, Then That.
 
Carman you need to write down on a piece of paper what speed you want to cruise at and how high rpm realistically how many times you are going to make passes at the drag strip or try to embarrass yourself at a light with some kid in a Honda.
From that decide your gear and how much converter you want to put in.
 
Carman you need to write down on a piece of paper what speed you want to cruise at and how high rpm realistically how many times you are going to make passes at the drag strip or try to embarrass yourself at a light with some kid in a Honda.
From that decide your gear and how much converter you want to put in.

I'll never drag race it. I cruise bewteen 70-80 on the freeway, and I turn 2600 at 80.
 
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