So I want to have a 440 built....

[The Horvaths]

@BigFury
"That yellow Fury the Horvaths just bought is a monster and it's a stock stroke 440 if I'm not mistaken??"
Not for long.
And yes, it's a beast.

 

[BigFury]

@BigFury
"That yellow Fury the Horvaths just bought is a monster and it's a stock stroke 440 if I'm not mistaken??"
Not for long.
And yes, it's a beast.

I know it! 11 second C bodies are no joke!

 

[carrman]

I'll add - ALL aftermarket parts need to be at minimum inspected by a qualified person before any usage. 440 Source product (and Edelbrock, some Eagle, and Scat) may need various operations to make the parts perform as intended. I do not trust the suppliers doing the balancing. I have yet to have a set of Source rods that didn;t need some form of correction before I considered them good enough. Nor have I had a crank from them taht did not have some taper and out-of-round issues. They were all within factory specs, but some were right on the line. That being said I've never had to turn one. The parts are good value. Theyare not premium parts.

So, is it worth it to build a 438 or not using my 383? Or should I go back to looking for a 440?

 

[BigFury]

So, is it worth it to build a 438 or not using my 383? Or should I go back to looking for a 440?

With your self described budget of 4 grand and parts , I'd build a 440 short block.

 

[moper]

It's worth you figuring out first what you realistically can afford ($4K ain't gonna buy much for any displacement) and then working with your machinist to decide how to spend it to get the most you can. We can give you info - you need to fit choice into your reality.

 

[Turboomni]

Don't remember if your car is driveable now or not but you could wait and save some money and have it done completely correct and have exactly what you want. I think it might be worth the wait.

 

[carrman]

It's worth you figuring out first what you realistically can afford ($4K ain't gonna buy much for any displacement) and then working with your machinist to decide how to spend it to get the most you can. We can give you info - you need to fit choice into your reality.

Remember, I don't need head work, just machine work on the block. If I just do a 440, I'll need a crank and pistons, intake and distributor. The 383 can provide everything else.

 

[BigFury]

Remember, I don't need head work, just machine work on the block. If I just do a 440, I'll need a crank and pistons, intake and distributor. The 383 can provide everything else.

So the motorhome 440 you mentioned that your machinist has isn't a complete short block?

 

[carrman]

Complete engine but with a cast crank.

 

[commando1]

Nothing wrong with a cast crank. It will take 500 hp all day without breaking a sweat.

 

[BigFury]

I'd build the bottom end on that motor. Mopar cast cranks are good for 500 hp. You going to be limited by the iron heads your using anyway and you'll be able to stay within that budget.

 

[moper]

Edit - this is for a stroker. I misread the 440 deal. But I will still stand by what I said. I think you are optimistic for a 440 build.

Remember, I don't need head work, just machine work on the block. If I just do a 440, I'll need a crank and pistons, intake and distributor. The 383 can provide everything else.

Sorry, I think you're still not familiar enough with them, very optimistic, and potentially hurting your chances for a great result. I'm fairly certain you can't use factory rods unless there's a crank I don't know about. That's possible admittedly but I haven't seen or heard of it. The pistons and cranks are machined for the length, but the width and journal diameter (crank "pin" size) are Chevy. So you need the right rods. And things need to be balanced. The cheapest way out is $2300 plus shipping with no upgrades and 'Source balancing. That's assuming the rods work out of the box when properly checked. Odds are they won't unless your shop doesn't care and I wouldn't trust Source's balance job is to my standards. You need special attention putting the engine together - it's not like a factory build. You should add studs to the mains and align hone it. On mine I modify the oil system to add flow to the lower end bearings and to the rockers. You should square deck the block. You will need a new camshaft. The XE268 is way too small. It will run. But not well, and will be down on power overall, with nothing left over about 4K. The custom cam (to use with manifolds) will be more cash. You should replace the timing set, fuel pump pushrod, and oil pump drive with the cam. You'll need cam bearings and block hardware bought and replaced. You'll need the new rod bearings chamfered to fit the crank. You will need new valve springs for the new cam. You will need new rockers for the new spring pressures and lifter type. Gaskets, a fuel pump, a water pump, an oil pump and pickup, plugs, wires, filters...
It's just not realistic to expect to fill a "new" engine with used parts and have an expectation of them running strong and lasting well.

 

[carrman]

The used parts are 3,000 miles old. I have a motor home 440 available I can have the bottom end rebuilt and install new pistons for better compression and use the 383 heads. If I have to recam it do be it.

 

[carrman]

I'm down to 2 choices. Have my 383 rebuilt as a 438 stroker, or have that motor home 440 redone using my 383 heads and other stuff. A 440 stroker is out of the picture now.

 

[The Horvaths]

I'm down to 2 choices. Have my 383 rebuilt as a 438 stroker, or have that motor home 440 redone using my 383 heads and other stuff. A 440 stroker is out of the picture now.

I still advocate the 438.

 

[polara71]

I never realized that a stroker would wear out faster .....makes sense though.

 

[jstaples2]

I still advocate the 438.

If you are gonna go the stroker route why not go up to a 496 with the 440 source kit? They are the same price. I'm in the same spot here and am looking at stroker kits for my 383 vs. buying a bare 440 block and building that out.

Not to topic jump here - but are there advantages to stroking a 383 up to a 438 vs. a non-stroked 440? They are just about the same displacement... The stroked 383 uses a 440 crank & rods. I thought I heard that the 383's were unique because of their short stroke/quick rev... would you lose some of that advantage? Other considerations here?

 

[commando1]

Carmann, stop wrapping your brain around the fact you just HAVE to use those 383 heads.

 

[carrman]

Carmann, stop wrapping your brain around the fact you just HAVE to use those 383 heads.

They've got too much work in them to just set them aside.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Bigger bore, 400/440 unshrouds the valves some, at this level not much advantage. He is using stock iron heads which when very well ported can only support ~470" so going to 500" with stock heads and exhaust manifolds is a lesson in throwing good money away. Stuffing a RB crank into a low deck engine is a neat way to look stock but your not/ sleeper style. Problem is $800-$1000 pistons for a 5500 rpm 400 horsepower engine is expensive and overkill, but hey it's not my money. I have not been able to find a cheap forged or hypereutectic piston for a BB Chevy to make this work. That's about all I've got.