I bet my LX (LC) car is faster than any street car he's got & I'll line em up for cash anytime.
My only point here is real simple. Edelbrock, Pro Charger, Vortec, Magnusson, Kenne Bell, etc. they all make bolt on kits that most guys can do in their garage. The kits come with upgraded fuel injectors & a hand held programmer that loads a new tune onto the car. Guess what the tune does? Yep, it adds fuel & backs off timing. Maybe none of those companies know what they're doing.
These companies have one clear agenda, to sell their product, that's all well and good, but they are not concerned if your engine gets scattered because you were too ignorant to replace your stock cast pistons. You can't tune or program a FN cast piston to survive beyond it's intended use Einstien. The IC engine is still 100+ year old technology from the heads down, with most improvements being in materials and accuracy in machine work. No matter how you get the charge into the cylinder, the piston takes the hit, and the more hp, the harder the hit, and whatever that piston is designed to take is key.
Hey, Mr. Captain Impressive.... This is from an authorized Mopar dealer...
While MAHLE supplies OEM pistons for the HEMI 5.7 and the 6.1L engines, which are cast and designed only to accommodate the OE manufacturers original specifications. The following information points out why high performance engines need forged internals and some of the metallurgic differences between the alloys commonly used in piston construction. As you might expect, cast pistons are weaker than forged units. As a result they cannot hold up to the demands of racing engines.
This is an example of exactly what I stated in my first post here, I also included that sales people will be eager to sell you bolt on parts, with no mention of the rest of the engine, likely because any idiot buying engine parts should know about the limitations of cast pistons. I've known this for over 25 years, because I have
built my own engines since I was 16, and several engines for others as well, with never once a bad result, because I am an anal picky MF when it comes to that type of work.
So pardon the hell out of me for wanting to share some information that might save someone a scattered engine in the future.
As for me not having a street car that can beat yours.... Big shocker dumbass, you're wrong again.
This winter I will finish the Indy headed 493 that will surpass 700 hp that will be going into the '67 New Yorker pictured with my account here.
I have a '70 Road Runner with an Indy SR headed 496 probably around 670hp.
I have a '70 GTX with an Indy RA Legend headed 528 Hemi, not yet together, but will be in the 750 hp range, I may also sell my rotating assembly for this, and go to a 4.25” stroke to bump it up to a 540.
I have a '57 Desoto that I have a 572 Hemi for, that will have Stage IV heads and will be in the 850 to 900 hp range.
All of the engine work will be done by myself excluding 2 sets of heads that have or will have full CNC port work, which as some of you may know still needs finish work, and they will be finished by myself. All of these are naturally aspirated engines, bottles are for babies, and super chargers of any kind sound like **** to me, unless you are talking about a deisel.
Evidently you have some bad character flaws, as you are so charged with impressing people that don't know you, in place of your own kids and wife that know you well. A real man would spend any extra money making a better life for his own family and spending every weekend with them instead of going racing at every opertunity. Maybe you should buy a boat or a camper and work on being a better husband and father this summer, instead of blowing tens of thousands of dollars on your own narcissist toys. I'm being serious here....