Strange problem this a.m.

tachometer won't stop the car in its tracks.

Yes actually a tach can kill a car dead in its tracks. I have proven it to many of people over the years. On the tech lines that is one of the very first things I go over with a customer that has a problem with spark.
 
Yes actually a tach can kill a car dead in its tracks. I have proven it to many of people over the years. On the tech lines that is one of the very first things I go over with a customer that has a problem with spark.
How would it keep the car from turning over? This is something I would've never suspected and it has never happened to me. If that is the issue I want to know how that happens?
 
it won't keep it from turning over but will disrupt the power and ground supply to the coil. The tach is hooked to the negative side of the coil just like the ignition box is correct? If the tach goes bad or is not functioning like it is supposed to it can give a false ground to the coil so that it will not open and close the ground on the negative side of the coil. I think that this may have been a part of your problem when all of the gauges and the tach were not working like you stated.
 
Gary, you never heard of the old cheap DIY anti theft device everybody used backed in the day?
Run a wire from the ground side of the coil through a hidden toggle switch to a ground.
The thief, after 2 minutes of non-stop turning it over knew to look under the dash for the hidden switch and then drive away...

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it won't keep it from turning over but will disrupt the power and ground supply to the coil. The tach is hooked to the negative side of the coil just like the ignition box is correct? If the tach goes bad or is not functioning like it is supposed to it can give a false ground to the coil so that it will not open and close the ground on the negative side of the coil. I think that this may have been a part of your problem when all of the gauges and the tach were not working like you stated.
Thanks. I am 99.9999 percent sure the tach is wired up correctly but it will not hurt to double check to trouble shoot. Only the tach and voltmeter stopped working when the event occurred. All other gauges remained unaffected.
 
Gary, you never heard of the old cheap DIY anti theft device everybody used backed in the day?
Run a wire from the ground side of the coil through a huddle toggle switch to a ground.
The thief, after 2 minutes of non-stop turning it over knew to look under the dash for the hidden switch and then drive away...

Posted via Topify on Android
Never heard of that trick. I've heard/seen guys rig up disconnect switches on the hot side of the battery that were hidden under the hood though or wheel wells though.
 
I am sure that it is likely wired correctly being that it has been working but if the tach has an intermittent issue it could likely be what is causing the trouble you are having. Just some food for thought for down the road. Had a tach be the issue way too many times in the past.
 
I am sure that it is likely wired correctly being that it has been working but if the tach has an intermittent issue it could likely be what is causing the trouble you are having. Just some food for thought for down the road. Had a tach be the issue way too many times in the past.
Never had a mope that didn't have at LEAST one electrical gremlin. Only thing I envy about the other guys. They seem to start up everytime.
 
Never had a mope that didn't have at LEAST one electrical gremlin. Only thing I envy about the other guys. They seem to start up everytime.

Maybe so, but when they actually don't start, the owners don't have all the electrical spare parts which a mopar guy is always keeping in his trunk... :yaayy:
 
Gary, you never heard of the old cheap DIY anti theft device everybody used backed in the day?
Run a wire from the ground side of the coil through a hidden toggle switch to a ground.
The thief, after 2 minutes of non-stop turning it over knew to look under the dash for the hidden switch and then drive away...

Posted via Topify on Android

I had once a poor man's switch in the place I thought no one would look...

Under the passenger's seat, attached to springs. It was an easy access for the driver if you knew where to put your hand into.

All went well until a friend of mine who weighs obo 130 Kg's (obo 290 lbs) sat on the seat when the engine was running. The springs of the seat hit the bottom and damaged the wiring. We smelled the smoke almost immediately.

It wouldn't have been that bad if there weren't some old and very dry newspapers under the seat...

Flames! FLAMES!

Without a water post and hose right next to my parking lot, my convertible would have burnt where it stood.

So, I guess a man can be stupid if he is lucky enough... lol

No need to say, there's no switch under the seat any more. I have other plans for thieves nowadays...

I hope no one does the same mistake, ever!
 
Maybe so, but when they actually don't start, the owners don't have all the electrical spare parts which a mopar guy is always keeping in his trunk... :yaayy:
YUP! I got everything from a spare coil, to ballast resistor, orange box even a jump box. prerequisites for old mopars. Although I've never had any of those go on me. Check that...crappy chinese orange box did once.
 
The problem with some electric parts stopping can be caused by the switched 12v coming from the ignition switch (the black wire), so either the ignition switch is starting to fail or there's a problem in the connector/ wiring to the switch.
 
The problem with some electric parts stopping can be caused by the switched 12v coming from the ignition switch (the black wire), so either the ignition switch is starting to fail or there's a problem in the connector/ wiring to the switch.

right, if your voltmeter is replacing the ammeter check to make sure you have full power on both sides. power will come into the volt meter from the bulkhead,through the voltmeter,to the ignition. if you lose power to the ignition switch (black wire) only half of the fuse box is powered causing all kinds of weird things. some things work some don't. chased this problem myself for a while.
 
right, if your voltmeter is replacing the ammeter check to make sure you have full power on both sides. power will come into the volt meter from the bulkhead,through the voltmeter,to the ignition. if you lose power to the ignition switch (black wire) only half of the fuse box is powered causing all kinds of weird things. some things work some don't. chased this problem myself for a while.

The volt meter is only sensing power from the system. You are not running power through it like the ammeter did.
 
right, if your voltmeter is replacing the ammeter check to make sure you have full power on both sides. power will come into the volt meter from the bulkhead,through the voltmeter,to the ignition. if you lose power to the ignition switch (black wire) only half of the fuse box is powered causing all kinds of weird things. some things work some don't. chased this problem myself for a while.
I never lost pwr to the ignition switch during the entire time......
 
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