Suspension ideas
- Thread starter Scott79
- Start date
You can raise or lower your front simply by adjusting the main nuts on your torsion bars. Forgot their actual name. You can just see that nut at the bottom of my control arm in this picture, if you expand the picture.
Adjust your front height as @Snotty said above. That's standard to all torsion bar suspensions. Have it realigned after adjustment. Likely you will need to replace some common wear items, so check out your suspension while you're under there.
FYI, there are generally no "kits" for our C bodies. Welcome to the world of big, oddball MoPar.
77newyorker440
Well-Known Member
I am also doing a suspension rebuild on my 77 New Yorker currently, and how do I take the load off the suspension from the torsion bars so the steering knuckle does not come crashing down when I released the upper control arm?
Thanks,
77newyorker440
Thanks,
77newyorker440
Dylan Galvin
Active Member
If you want to have some camber, its pretty easy to adjust on these things just slide the UCA. That combined with altering the tension on the torsion bars is all you can easily do for the front. In the rear I think you need custom leaf springs made to adjust that ride height
Dylan Galvin
Active Member
Turn that torsion adjuster bolt completely loose
Metalmarty
Member
I'm currently working on my '68 Newport. And I'm working on restoring the front suspension at the moment.
Using a PST kit for ball joints, bushings etc and KYB shocks all around.
If you want to see what all the parts and such look like 1968 Newport 4dr Hardtop restore (NL)
If you have any questions, feel free.
And yes, changing the stance in the front is as easy as turning two bolts in the front (one left, one right).
Stance in the back can be done with different leaf springs, or lowering blocks.
Be sure to have the car jacked up and the weight off the suspension before making any adjustments to the tensioning bolts.
Dave
As far the stance/ride height deal goes, even when the '66s-'68s were new, we had to be careful when entering some places to angle our entry so the car went in on an angle and didn't drag the tail pipes. There's a big amount of car between the rear wheels and the rear bumper!
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Jeff Skibenes
Member
So, I have a 66 Newport and it just seems like the whole body sits a bit lower than it should. The leaf springs appear to have a reverse arc in them. Anybody have any suggestions here? As I recall from the 66 that I had as a kid, I just don't think it sat that low...
A flat spring to slight "reverse arch" is normal for these cars.
Jeff Skibenes
Member
Sure does.
It looks to be sitting how my car does.I saw a few picture of your springs in another thread. They don't look to be in need of replacement unless you need extra weight capacity or just have to have a few extra inches in height.
Jeff Skibenes
Member
I guess its just me then...just don't remember the one I had back in '81 riding that low. And given the way I beat the daylights out of that car I would think I would have been bottoming out all the time.Sure does.
I saw a few picture of your springs in another thread. They don't look to be in need of replacement unless you need extra weight capacity or just have to have a few extra inches in height.
It might not have. Different spring rates were available and air shocks were way too common back then. Also, that was 40 years ago. What did you have for breakfast 4 days ago? Besides that I guessing the driver is a little heavier by now.
To me it looks like it's riding right. On the low side, maybe, but still within spec. If for some reason it needs to come up or you just want it riding higher a new set of springs will do that.
Jeff Skibenes
Member
So, here is what I got from ESPO:It might not have. Different spring rates were available and air shocks were way too common back then. Also, that was 40 years ago. What did you have for breakfast 4 days ago? Besides that I guessing the driver is a little heavier by now.
To me it looks like it's riding right. On the low side, maybe, but still within spec. If for some reason it needs to come up or you just want it riding higher a new set of springs will do that.
Hi Jeff,
The 6-leaf standard duty stock replacement springs are $320/pair, the HD 7-leaf springs are $330/pair. They are matched pairs and come with the front bushings pressed in. Rear shackles with bushings are $76/pair; ubolts $20/set of 4 and front eye bolts $8/pair. Shipping depends on which springs and hardware you are interested in. If you let me know I can give you shipping, a total and secure link for payment in case you decide to order. It's currently taking about 4 weeks to ship.
Opinion on the choice? I like the way it rides, I don't want that to change. I would just prefer the car sit a litlle higher.
I'm still riding original springs in my Chrysler and have never used ESPO on anything, so I have no opinion on the ESPO springs. There are members here who have them and have good things to say. If I had to replace mine they would be one of the top choices. If you go this route, from what I've seen/hear/read the standard pack will lift you car up 3-4" from what it is now. I don't know the various spring rates, but I'm sure a newer spring will be firmer to some degree, at least for a while. My opinion is leave the original springs in there as long as you don't have a cracked/broken leaf and replace the bushings if you need to.
When you say that you are bottoming out what do you mean? Are you dragging stuff at low speed or is the car slamming into dips at speed?
When you say that you are bottoming out what do you mean? Are you dragging stuff at low speed or is the car slamming into dips at speed?
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