I'll send some photos in a bit.
The SAGA Begins - '66 300 Convertible
- Thread starter Ripinator
- Start date
Mr C
Senior Member
I sympathize...I got my 68 Crown convertible in 2016 too and I'm still collecting parts...I echo your comments that It's great to see Commando1 often again.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Your flaps are cut differently than mine was. As shown in my pics (369 and 375) it mounted on the outside of the panel.
Rip: If you take a look at post #375 it would seem that you need to need to:
1 - take the metal slotted strip off the back of the seat, and
2 - install the seat back that you had made, and
3 - layout the cover on top of the seat back with the ventilation hole facing down, and the top flush with the top of the seat cover, and
4 - place the metal slotted strip back in it's original place so that the metal strip holds down the top flap of the speaker cover, and
5 - Put the 11 metal screws back into the metal strip which should lock the cover down from the top, then
6 - Take a look at the best way to fasten the side panels of the speaker cover to the back of the seat.
By the looks of it, the bottom of the speaker cover just hangs loose as it covered by the convertible top anyway. As mentioned before in our conversation, my 67 does not have that kind of room behind the seat for that type of speaker cover, as the convertible top would crush it when fully down. I only have about 1 and 1/2 inches of space in there and that cover from Legendary looks like it needs about 4 inches of space.
Cam Shaft
1 - take the metal slotted strip off the back of the seat, and
2 - install the seat back that you had made, and
3 - layout the cover on top of the seat back with the ventilation hole facing down, and the top flush with the top of the seat cover, and
4 - place the metal slotted strip back in it's original place so that the metal strip holds down the top flap of the speaker cover, and
5 - Put the 11 metal screws back into the metal strip which should lock the cover down from the top, then
6 - Take a look at the best way to fasten the side panels of the speaker cover to the back of the seat.
By the looks of it, the bottom of the speaker cover just hangs loose as it covered by the convertible top anyway. As mentioned before in our conversation, my 67 does not have that kind of room behind the seat for that type of speaker cover, as the convertible top would crush it when fully down. I only have about 1 and 1/2 inches of space in there and that cover from Legendary looks like it needs about 4 inches of space.
Cam Shaft
The photos are awful and distorted looking through the rear window. The hardboard goes to the top over the speaker opening. The bottom is uncover because there is a moisture catcher, which is sort of like a hammock. Do you have this item? I don't know what it is called. Mine is original. The new speaker cover I installed last and it just drapes over the speaker. Only attached at the top edge.
I honestly never remove boot cover, so none of this is even ever seen on my car.
I honestly never remove boot cover, so none of this is even ever seen on my car.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I'm gonna give this thing another go using your guidance. More photos to follow. . .
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Here ya go. I think the speaker cover and the backer board are good to go. In any event, I ain't dicking with it anymore. A few pictures:
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
For something you will never see when the top is down, that looks great! Do you have a well cover? I have one that snaps into place and hides all the rear speaker components.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Yes. I have a vinyl well in which the top rests when it is down. I also have a "boot" cover that snaps into place over the retracted top. I have yet to install the snaps, however.
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Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Very different!
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
You all may remember the above post about my so called vapor lock issue. It has plagued this car for a couple of years now. It descended finally into a no fuel at all issue last September. Since then I have been firing the parts cannon at it: new fuel pump, fuel filter, new fuel lines tank to pump, new sender and sock, and finally a carburetor rebuild from Woodruff. Yesterday I found this:
Do ya think my rod is too short? Rod at the bottom is a good one. . .
Wow! That problem drove me nuts. Too bad no one suggested that to you.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Me too. There is usually someone here telling you to check your rod.Wow! That problem drove me nuts. Too bad no one suggested that to you.
If you have to ask that question, it's safe to assume that it is too short...
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Me too. There is usually someone here telling you to check your rod.
Yes. I neglected my rod for far too long. . .
My wife doesn’t want to go for joy rides anymore because my rod was too short last summer.
After being stranded along the road for a few hours being less than satisfied, we made it home and I upgraded to a longer rod.
In-line electric fuel pump for emergency fix? 68 Polara.
After being stranded along the road for a few hours being less than satisfied, we made it home and I upgraded to a longer rod.
In-line electric fuel pump for emergency fix? 68 Polara.
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
How does that happen? Did I get swapped with a shorter one or wear down?
They wear.
Simplified explanation is the hardening process used only hardens the exterior of the steel. What happens is once you wear though the hard surface, the inside is soft and that wears really quickly.
This gives a decent explanation of case or surface hardening. What is Case Hardening? | Metal Supermarkets
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
In my case, I think the wear on the rod was exacerbated due the use of an old rod on a new cam lobe. When my engine was rebuilt, the cam was replaced, but not the rod.
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