The sub frame project has begun..

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Making great progress. I think you are going to have your back together before me.
 
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Making great progress. I think you are going to have your back together before me.

It's hard to say..
I am hoping for 1st week of June as a roll out the door date.
There are days that I am just waiting for parts to arrive..
Whats your goal?
 
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Here I sit in a condo in Ocean Isle, NC waiting to get back to work on my car.... :(
Come on April 9th!! :D
I miss my car... LOL!!:steering:
 
Here I sit in a condo in Ocean Isle, NC waiting to get back to work on my car.... :(
Come on April 9th!! :D
I miss my car... LOL!!:steering:

That is too funny. I was doing the same thing last weekend. I presume you are on a spring break with your significant other, at least that was my case. I won't tell her what you are thinking if you don't tell my wife I was thinking the same thing.:icon_wink:
 
that is too funny. I was doing the same thing last weekend. I presume you are on a spring break with your significant other, at least that was my case. I won't tell her what you are thinking if you don't tell my wife i was thinking the same thing.:icon_wink:

deal!!! :D
 
Looks Good! I'm planning on doing the same to my Fury. How many hours would you say it took to get the sub frame removed and ready to paint?
 
Looks Good! I'm planning on doing the same to my Fury. How many hours would you say it took to get the sub frame removed and ready to paint?

I took my time estimated that it was less than 15 hours. .
 
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I took my time estimated that it was 15 hours. .

Just went through this thread because I just started the same on my fury this last weekend, only got the front clip off so far lol. But the craftsmanship is great, motivated me to do mine
 
Once the front end is removed I think it took me about 3 hours to remove the subframe and remove the engine/trans from it and then disassemble the front suspension.Luckily my front end was fairly clean because I had the engine out about a year earlier and cleaned up the engine compartment at the time.The removal of the front sheetmetal(hood,bumper,fenders,radiator support) and removing all the hoses and wiring from the engine should take about 4 hours,but it all depends on how clean your car is and how rusty your bolts are.A word of advice,spray everything down with PB Blaster or something similar the night before and keep a good breaker bar handy!
 
I dismantled everything as I tore it down.

I used diesel fuel and some PB Blaster as well.
Surprisingly it came apart much easier than expected considering the rust i encountered.

I am expecting to get back at this by the end of next week when i get back from vacation.

I am glad to hear I have been a motivator for other s to tackle this.
Other than the cleaning, and repainting of the little parts, it is a relatively easy job to tackle.

All you need is time , money & motivation!!!
:giggle::giggle::giggle:
 
Here's my latest motivator!

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I bolted the Steering column and brake pedal & PB booster into place last night.
Had to really dig into the bag box looking forthe steering bolts that the rag joint attaches to..Don't want t lose those bolts..

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I notice you have a really clean and nice bulkhead connector too. . .

Also, what are the specs on that engine ? Looks like a HP setup.
 
I notice you have a really clean and nice bulkhead connector too. . .

Also, what are the specs on that engine ? Looks like a HP setup.

Hi there.
the Poly 318A 2bbl setup is what i have here.
The pure stock 318A 2bbl advertised a 230hp also named the "RED RAM"


The replacement is the same other than being bored out to .040" & .010" on the mains journals , & rods.

Here is where i got my data from http://www.allpar.com/mopar/a-engines.html

One interesting item to note is that the Poly engines have solid lifters which can add to the performance of these engines if done right..

I've read threads on guys boring these babies out to 409CI and getting well over 500hp out of these engines.

As far as the bulk head connector goes, I cleaned the block up and replaced all of the connectors with OEM type connectors from www.delcity.net
But they are improved as they have a sprung tongue inside each connector which will improve the connectivity over time.

I had to relocate the hot and return feed for the amp gauge as well as plan to by pass they gauge for charging purposes as I go along with the build to avoid future block head connector melt downs.
 
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