Vapor lock and flooding on 383

detmatt said:
This is the way my car acted early on and progressively got worse. I looked at everything over more than a years time before finally finding the fuel pump rod was 3/8" shorter than it should have been.
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Matt: You have suffered with a short rod for a long time. . .
 
Big_John said:
You can do a quick volume check on the fuel pump with a rubber hose and a 12 oz. soda bottle. With someone cranking the engine over (disconnect the coil wire at the coil) the pump should fill the bottle about 1/2 way. If it doesn't, then you can inspect the pump rod and if that's OK, replace the pump.

Actually... I just think you flooded it. Don't pump the gas on a hot start.

But... You also said you haven't even looked at the points. If you are going to run a points type distributor, understand that you do have to do some PM on a regular basis.
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Agreed he needs a tune up everyone always wants to blame the carb for piss poor performance. These modern Eddy carbs are using modern rubber and plastics they are not bothered by new gas which does evaporate easier ( no open to the air on a modern car) they don't have plastic floats, in short they are not the same old Carter's that went out of business because of lack of quality and upgrades.
Your car needs a tune up period. That's why points went away people don't want to put points in every 3000 miles. They work fine but when you change your oil you need to change the points.
 
70bigblockdodge said:
Agreed he needs a tune up everyone always wants to blame the carb for piss poor performance. These modern Eddy carbs are using modern rubber and plastics they are not bothered by new gas which does evaporate easier ( no open to the air on a modern car) they don't have plastic floats, in short they are not the same old Carter's that went out of business because of lack of quality and upgrades.
Your car needs a tune up period. That's why points went away people don't want to put points in every 3000 miles. They work fine but when you change your oil you need to change the points.
Click to expand...

And remember. . . 95% of all carburetor problems are electrical.
 
Ripinator said:
Matt: You have suffered with a short rod for a long time. . .
Click to expand...
All the problems I was having with my rod are behind me now, I just had to replace that short SOB.
 
Wondering if I should just het a new fuel pump, points and condenser and be done with it. They're all original as far as I know...

Big Box Auto down the street has a pump for $30.
 
OneEyed said:
Wondering if I should just het a new fuel pump, points and condenser and be done with it. They're all original as far as I know...

Big Box Auto down the street has a pump for $30.
Click to expand...
Shotgunning parts is not the answer and a pump either works or it leaks.
Put the points in leave your old condenser. For some reason the Chinese and or Mexican's can't make a capacitor aka condenser, Chrysler uses non wearing condenser (points don't open and close against top of condenser) carry a spare if it makes you feel better and they are not just sitting on the shelf anymore.
 
detmatt said:
This is the way my car acted early on and progressively got worse. I looked at everything over more than a years time before finally finding the fuel pump rod was 3/8" shorter than it should have been.
Click to expand...

I'm pulling the pump rod out of the Monaco this weekend Matt. I think it's the cause of the hard starting and bogging at w.o.t. I talked to the previous owner at Carlisle that installed the new pump but did check rod for wear. I never would have thought of it myself if not for this site.
 
By the time I pulled mine I was so frustrated with the issue and so relieved to have actually found the cause. I don't even remember what it was that made me check it finally.
 
So, contact spring tension should be 17 to 20 ounces? How do I guesstimate that?

Old contacts have some pitting and the tension is quite looser, not sure how to know if that's correct though...
 
With the engine idling and in park with air cleaner off, what does it mean when you give it gas and a burst of gassy air sprays up and it suddenly dies? This seems to happen quite often when I'm trying to adjust the carb.

Just about ready to accept Best Offers!!
 
OneEyed said:
Also, I had the electric choke turned all the way forward (rich), even beyond the little tick marks, that's where it seemed to run the best...not sure if that means anything. But when I pulled the air cleaner off last night the choke flapper was all the way shut.
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I think your choke is the culprit here. If you would have pulled the air cleaner off and manually opened the choke you could have saved the wear and tear on your starter and battery. Get it adjusted properly and you should be ok.
 
Big_John said:
You can do a quick volume check on the fuel pump with a rubber hose and a 12 oz. soda bottle. With someone cranking the engine over (disconnect the coil wire at the coil) the pump should fill the bottle about 1/2 way. If it doesn't, then you can inspect the pump rod and if that's OK, replace the pump.

Actually... I just think you flooded it. Don't pump the gas on a hot start.

But... You also said you haven't even looked at the points. If you are going to run a points type distributor, understand that you do have to do some PM on a regular basis.
Click to expand...

Big John, educate me on the points PM. What should I be doing and how often? Not much of a mechanic, going to have to learn a thing or two if Im going to drive these older cars!
 
Last edited:
1966 t and c said:
Big John, educated me on the points PM. What should I be doing and how often? Not much of a mechanic, going to have to learn a thing or two if Im going to drive these older cars!
Click to expand...
Quite honestly, the points can be replaced so easily with either a magnetic or optical trigger system that it's not worth even considering keeping the points system.

A Mopar Performance kit or if you want a system you can't see, a Pertronix conversion. Either will make everything much easier and your car will run better.

Contact points work OK when everything is good... but a lot of things can compromise "good" including normal wear. When these cars were new, "tune ups" were common and something that you did on a regular basis. The Mopar Performance unit is 70's technology and it's tried and true. Set it and forget it. Go out and enjoy your car.
 
As of right now I'd choose the Pertronix I kit over the Chrysler elect. ignition. I'm running one of each and so far the Pertronix is winning and it was cheaper and easier.
 
Big_John said:
Quite honestly, the points can be replaced so easily with either a magnetic or optical trigger system that it's not worth even considering keeping the points system.

A Mopar Performance kit or if you want a system you can't see, a Pertronix conversion. Either will make everything much easier and your car will run better.

Contact points work OK when everything is good... but a lot of things can compromise "good" including normal wear. When these cars were new, "tune ups" were common and something that you did on a regular basis. The Mopar Performance unit is 70's technology and it's tried and true. Set it and forget it. Go out and enjoy your car.
Click to expand...
Can you post part numbers for each of these systems? The pertronix seems pretty reasonable if I'm looking at the right one...
 
Big_John said:
You can do a quick volume check on the fuel pump with a rubber hose and a 12 oz. soda bottle. With someone cranking the engine over (disconnect the coil wire at the coil) the pump should fill the bottle about 1/2 way. If it doesn't, then you can inspect the pump rod and if that's OK, replace the pump.

Actually... I just think you flooded it. Don't pump the gas on a hot start.

But... You also said you haven't even looked at the points. If you are going to run a points type distributor, understand that you do have to do some PM on a regular basis.
Click to expand...
How long do you crank it for? Wouldn't it just keep filling the bottle?
 
OneEyed said:
The heat riser is on the passenger side exhaust manifold, correct? That moves freely. I did notice gas dripping down, not where the air filter sits but maybe that seem on the top section of the carb. My owners manual doesn't say anything about needle valves.

Feel free to talk to me like I'm an idiot, lol, I'm still new to all this carburetor stuff.
Click to expand...

Yes th heat riser is on the passenger side. If your heat riser was free, that is not you problem, and your carb may not have needle valves. You can verify this by looking at an exploded view of the carb.

If you have gas seeping out the cover gasket on the carb, you might have a bad needle valve. Could be a piece of crud keeping it from closing properly. Could also be a float level that is set too high causing your flooding problem.

You are going to have to remove the top of the carb to check both of these items. Also check your float(s) for corrosion along the soldered seams if they are the metal type. Oxygenated fuel tends to eat the lead seams. Take the float off and shake it. If there is fuel inside, your float has a hole in it and needs to be repaired or replaced. If your floats are the plastic type, check them for white or brown residue on the outside of the float. A buildup of this degraded fuel residue will cause the float to be heavy and not close properly. You will need to clean this stuff off or replace the float.

Dave
 
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