What a Rush

[The Horvaths]

Some more idling. *yawn*

 

[65Fury440]

Getting closer!! She sounds STRONG!

 

[cantflip]

Some more idling. *yawn*

Hmmm... you'll probably want to down grade that cam and install A/C before cruising...

She sounds like she's on her way to success, at last , when do we get the neighborhood "Thank You Cruise" video?

 

[65Fury440]

Hmmm... you'll probably want to down grade that cam and install A/C before cruising...

Oh great, another,"how much extra duration does my cam need for an RV2 over a Sanderson" thread coming up.

 

[jct]

I wanna hear her angry voice

 

[The Horvaths]

Hmmm... you'll probably want to down grade that cam and install A/C before cruising...

She sounds like she's on her way to success, at last , when do we get the neighborhood "Thank You Cruise" video?

For the sake of my own credibility, I refuse to answer that at this time.

 

[The Horvaths]

Naturally, because I managed to get it running, I pulled the carb apart. I now know how it’s built from the factory.
1) The emulsion circuit has the carb drinking fuel from a Crazy Straw. It’s going to be changed.
2) One of the primary idle restrictors had machining flash that was about to break free and cause a 100% restriction. All of the 6-32 orifices look like they were made in a hurry, on ancient equipment, by drunk monkeys. It’s downright sloppy. I’m stepping them (the idle fuel restrictions) down from.043” to .040” on all four corners to start. I bought some Quick Fuel orifices. They are artwork compared to the stock ones from Holley.

I’m also cutting back on the emulsion bleeds to start. I’m going from 029/029/029/0/029 to 029/0/0/029/0 for initial setup.


- dad

 

[The Horvaths]

This is a modified hacksaw blade. It’s now just barely .002” thinner than the idle transfer slots. From posts on carburetor forums, it’s looking like Holley often cuts them a little short and occasionally a little long. This is particularly seen in the 4500 series carbs. The carburetor that we bought has noticeably short slots. I’m going to try to fix that next time I have it off the engine.

I changed oil and got it started again with the new tweaks. It’s getting closer to being rather tolerable. There’s certainly work to do. I’m going to finish the rear brakes and then bleed them all around. Then, I may get a little drive in. It’s wicked. Very, very wicked.

- dad

 

[The Horvaths]

Some light reading as I wait for the temperature to cross freezing. From: racingfuelsystems.myfunforum.org

- dad

 

[The Horvaths]

I’ve purchased two-circuit metering blocks for the carburetor. The two-circuit system will let the car see some street use for engine seasoning. I’m going to modify them for lowered idle channel metering and emulsion bleed setup before I even put them on the carburetor. It’s been a long time since I’ve made significant carburetor mods. I’m having a ball with this new internet stuff. I used to have to do all of this from scratch. I’ve bought myself an Innovate Systems LM-2 data logger with two O2 sensors. I’ve gotten a TPS and mounted it on the carb. I’m adding a MAP sensor and I’ll break out my old analog output accelerometer. There’s now a wealth of information at my fingertips.

racingfuelsystems.myfunforum.org -

- dad

 

[The Horvaths]

Unobtanium..

..sort of.

-dad

 

[The Horvaths]

The deep dish version! They clear the backing plate and have heat fins. It’s an upgrade in my opinion.

- dad

 

[The Horvaths]

Wintertime mechanic’s seat. Cozy. I’m deliberately sitting on the ground to get better access to the brakes. It’s letting me use the larger muscles in my chest to remove and replace the springs. At my age, I need to work smart, not hard.

By the way: if you use good, safe practices early on, your body will reward you for years to come. Whenever possible, push wrenches, don’t pull. Your joints were made for compression, not tension.

- dad

 

[The Horvaths]

Dylan - see these bright spots? Except for the one on the wheel cylinder pushrod (I’ll investigate what made that one!), they’re relatively normal. This is where I will put a thin film of (“disc” brake) silicone grease. Not much, just enough. It’s going wherever there is metal/metal motion. This includes the pushrod slots, the spring contact points, wherever metal moves against metal. Remember, use just a thin film. It’s also very important that I don’t contaminate the friction surfaces with any amount. Gloves and moderation are key.




- dad

 

[The Horvaths]

Wheel cylinders:

Place catch pan remove bleeder so that you can get wrench space for line wrench. Note: I often crack bleeders if I’m having a tight fit when trying to pull the drum.
Loosen line fitting. Remove wheel cylinder mounting screws. Remove line fitting, protect the line from contamination with a plastic bag and bag tie or similar means. Remove wheel cylinder. Get new cylinder and use red rubber grease (castor oil grease from Castrol is magical) on rubber boots for years of dry rot-free protection. Put rods in boots, start line fitting. Bolt wheel cylinder in place and tighten line fitting with line wrench. Install new bleeder.


Works for me and protects line fitting and line from damage due to trying to fit line with wheel cylinder stitched down tight.


- dad

 

[cantflip]

Wintertime mechanic’s seat. Cozy. I’m deliberately sitting on the ground to get better access to the brakes. It’s letting me use the larger muscles in my chest to remove and replace the springs. At my age, I need to work smart, not hard.

By the way: if you use good, safe practices early on, your body will reward you for years to come. Whenever possible, push wrenches, don’t pull. Your joints were made for compression, not tension.

View attachment 162291

- dad

You forgot to mention... if you pull... sooner or later you will punch yourself in the face...

So did I interpret correctly that you determined the lumpy cam missing at idle was causing your extreme rich condition? I wouldn't have thought so... you weren't in closed loop yet, and idle should have closed loop disabled in your application.

Or have I missed the point entirely?

 

[65sporty]

By the way: if you use good, safe practices early on, your body will reward you for years to come. Whenever possible, push wrenches, don’t pull. Your joints were made for compression, not tension.

View attachment 162291

- dad

I have heard the opposite, always pull never push. If your wrench slips off you may end up punching something. When pulling I have slipped off but have never punched myself. I guess if it's that tight you need to be careful with either method.

 

[65Fury440]

I'm happy to get a fastener off. Period. My knuckles are usually skinned. They are right now from putting a condenser in a Mitsu Endeavor today.
To Dad, it sounds like you have a handle on the 2 circuit Dominator. There's a guy over on Moparts doing 2 circuit Dom mods to clean up fat curves off idle. Might be some info to glean.
Wide bands are invaluable. Looking forward to see you get her roadworthy!!!!

 

[The Horvaths]

..
So did I interpret correctly that you determined the lumpy cam missing at idle was causing your extreme rich condition? I wouldn't have thought so... you weren't in closed loop yet, and idle should have closed loop disabled in your application.

Or have I missed the point entirely?

It made it to the temperature of learn and fuel gushed. Then, Jeremy turned on the high pressure pump and overrode the carburetor’s pressure regulator. Fuel wash extravaganza! My mistake.

It’s an absolute beast to start cold. It fires right off once it’s warm. I got in a couple loops around the block. People covered their ears and hid! The wife wasn’t here, so no video. It’s really rich at mid-throttle, as predicted. I’m going to be working on that. However, it’s probably going to get the two-circuit metering blocks before I spend too much time on it.


- dad

 

[The Horvaths]

I also think that this high dollar fuel is a little short on light end leaders (or whatever the very aromatic stuff is called). I added toluene and that helped with the cold start. Dylan, do NOT try this at home. It’s downright nasty, nearly explosive stuff. It will also alter the octane rating. I measured out a precise quantity and put the closed can far away before I touched the key. I also let the fuel pump run to mix it up well.

I’m arranging an under-hood starting system so I can tend to the engine personally when it’s cold. It’s not done yet.

Edit: The proper term is “light-front-end hydrocarbons”. Duh. ;)

- dad