What a Rush

First track run/video should come March 25. Stay tuned.
That's a long way off for us to wait! Thanks to all the test runs in the neighborhood, you'll have it dialed in perfectly!

You should tell the neighbors that if they pay for the track costs, you'll never drive it on the street, unless absolutely necessary. You'll have money falling out of your pockets! :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
So, here’s what I did to the new two-circuit metering blocks:

I moved the idle circuit restriction orifice, from the top of the primary and secondary blocks (above the fuel level), to the bottom. This makes them regulate much more effectively. I also changed the idle circuit restrictions from 0.033” to 0.039” on all four “corners.”

I plugged the middle emulsion bleed on both blocks also. For now, the top and bottom bleeds are each left at their stock (Primary: Top=.028”/Bottom=.031”, Secondary: Top=.027”/Bottom=.032”) sizes.

I opened up all four cross (“angle”) channels from 0.140” 0.159”. I then carefully cleared the kill bleeds to return them to their original 0.027” diameters.

Main jets were not installed, so, I started at P=#83, S=#95.

There’s no option in these for a power valve in the secondary block, however, the primary is using a 2.5” power valve and has the (stock) power valve channel restrictions of 0.060”.


Dylan, I’m keeping a notebook. However, you’re probably going to want to write some of these numbers down.


All of these things are subject to change. I plan to get a big ol’ exhaust installed (several critical bends would significantly raise the cost of my building it from pre-bent pieces). Once the exhaust is finalized, then I can install an O2 sensor and start the advanced tuning process.

It’s a labor of love.


- dad
 
Going to talk to a man about a real exhaust.

C7FAAF44-2E0E-43E7-B3CA-EFC72A795F28.jpeg


- dad
 
hey man whats a thousand bucks compared to that sweet sweet music its gonna make
Actually considering a COMPLETE exhaust- three inches is actually rather restrictive after ~550 HP. The C bodies have a need for sharp bends directly after the header collectors to make it to the clearances in the K-frame. At this power level, sharp bends, even in 3” tubes, are just a crime.

So, I located a specialist. Rich’s Performance Muffler in Wylie, TX. He’s going to quote a serious, custom, hand-built mandrel-bent stainless steel exhaust. Unfortunately, it’s not going to be anywhere near a cheap exhaust. I’m of the opinion that it’s a waste to try something that will need to be replaced shortly after building it.

We’re talking about building the transmission from parts instead of purchasing a pre-built unit from CRT. I have a friend who owns a great shop in Plano. Jeff McCleod at Plano Automatic Transmission. He’s also a specialist.

- dad
 
So, the quote was pretty high. Being a bit of a DIY-kind of Guy, I put together a careful list of what I would need to do it myself using simply mild steel mandrel bends from Summit. I admittedly put a couple extra things in the “cart” to make certain that enough was there to do the job. Perhaps I could return as much as $200 worth. Of course, I’m probably short a couple of things too, but, it’s a start. The total? $1230.00 plus change. I think that maybe the quote wasn’t so bad after all.

Anyway:
C bodies have a need to quickly turn the exhaust to the outside of the chassis to meet pockets in the K-frame right at the tail of the transmission. When TTI made these headers, they put the collectors pointing straight back and several inches to the inside of the vehicle. It’s rather maddening because they left very little room to turn the exhaust. So, I’m thinking about making “pie cuts” to make the collectors turn outward. Then each side can easily make the trip to their respective pockets. I was thinking about this early Friday and decided that it was probably not a great idea to try to secure the headers in my compound miter saw and risk hospitalization. Instead, I need to make templates and mark the tubes for cutting with a cutoff wheel. So I put my little mind to work.

I started by using scissors on a piece of heat-shrink tubing. I determined that, if flattened out, the cutout piece would be diamond shaped. But, how big top to bottom and side to side?

I thought about it. Top to bottom would obviously be the tubing’s circumference. I know that because it’s 3” diameter tubing where I want to make the cut. Side to side of the diamond is then just a matter of what angle the cuts are at. A little trigonometry gives me that information quite quickly.

Of course, each cut is at half of the total angle. So, for a 45 degree bend, each cut will be at 22.5 degrees. I made a drawing using a drafting program that I can use at work. I could just as well have done this with two perpendicular lines, a calculator, calipers or a ruler, and a pencil.

42BEE6E4-6854-43F5-BDBD-8B275C343C49.jpeg


- dad
 
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+1 jeff @ plano transmissions - that's over in my side of town :)

I have a 727 over there right now. he is putting a transgo kit and 2100 converter in w/ all H.D. parts to go behind this 440 fury I got from OR.
 
+1 jeff @ plano transmissions - that's over in my side of town :)

I have a 727 over there right now. he is putting a transgo kit and 2100 converter in w/ all H.D. parts to go behind this 440 fury I got from OR.

Tell him that Jeremy says howdy!


Technical, yes. Technically, it’s a mind.

- dad
 
Tell him that Jeremy says howdy!


Technical, yes. Technically, it’s a mind.

- dad
Compared to me, you're a crew chief, I'm the guy loading/unloading the trailer. I know Edelbrock 101, I failed basic Holley tuning, but I knew enough to stop what I was doing. I could get a book and learn.
 
A little trigonometry gives me that information quite quickly
Another subject I did horribly in. I could get you the answer, but my equations we're all messed up. Got accused of cheating, if I was looking at the two girls on either side of me,the test isn't something I'd be looking at, they were both very popular, good looking, cheerleaders.

If they would have used real.world situations like custom exhaust.on a car I knew nothing about, then maybe I would have tried harder. I thought it was just nuts and bolts!
 
Good call. This cartoon was originally in a good VW book called something like “How to Rebuild VW Engines for the Compleat Idiot.”


- dad
Illustrated by Peter Ashwenden (SP) famed Grateful Dead Illustrator.
Built my 66 Beatle off that book when I was a lad!
 
We interrupt this thread for a brief nudes flash!


Uhhhh..

Sorry folks. Live broadcast.
Anyway:
9741E5EE-2339-4F6B-91D5-ACC44A5F48B9.jpeg



Well, this looks really sweeeeeeet.

Dad is stealthily plotting on a future extreme engine experience for another vehicle that has yet to gel as a project.

That’s actually a three-deuce, dual single-plane manifold. The plenum is fully divided, but, both halves are at the same plane. It’s entirely uncommon. It’s also for a polyspherical engine. It’s going to be raining radical, dude! I’m thinking ~402 cubic inches at about 9.5/1 compression. Roller lifters, ridiculous-fu, and some serious stuff too.

Polys have a torque curve that you can set your drink on and still have plenty of room for chips and salsa . They breath almost as well as a hemi.

BTW: the modern “Hemis” are really polyspherical chambers.

- dad
 
Well, that was fun..


I trailered it over to Rich’s Performance Muffler. I rolled it off the trailer and then started it to warm it up so that he could later drive it onto a lift. It’s cold blooded between the fuel it’s running and the lack of an exhaust (to help keep air pulling through the intake). So, I’m steadily spritzing a stream of carb spray for just over a half minute or so and then it will idle on its own. I let it warm for a couple of minutes and get in a short run down the block and back. When I get back, it’s plenty warm enough to start on its own for a while.

Rich, the owner of a Performance Muffler shop, who regularly does race car exhaust systems, has just one thing to say:


“D4MN!..

..Your neighbors must -LOVE- you!”



I’m so proud.



- dad
 
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