What did you do to your C-body today....

[300L]

I thought the oldtimers were exempt from TUV now?

No, unfortunately not!
The technical check for brakes, steering, lighting or rust perforation is the same as for any other vehicle.
The only thing that is omitted for vehicles built before 1970 is the emissions test.

By the way, the examiner was very impressed with the direct and not spongy steering.
A 300L just ;)

 

['66 Fury I]

We have the same situation here. I don't mind having it "looked over" to see if I have "overlooked" something! My only problem is with young (read: inexperienced) "techniciens" who don't understand our cars. When I have had to go to a different station for inspection, I go with the FSM at my side! I once had a tech fail all four balljoints. I took the car to another shop and the mechanic there said, "The ink on his licence was probably still wet. These new guys don't even know how these front ends work". all four balljoints were OK. Lindsay

 

[300L]

We have the same situation here. I don't mind having it "looked over" to see if I have "overlooked" something! My only problem is with young (read: inexperienced) "techniciens" who don't understand our cars. When I have had to go to a different station for inspection, I go with the FSM at my side! I once had a tech fail all four balljoints. I took the car to another shop and the mechanic there said, "The ink on his licence was probably still wet. These new guys don't even know how these front ends work". all four balljoints were OK. Lindsay

I totally agree. I always try to get "experienced" examiners. But this time it was a relatively young man who promptly flooded the carb when starting the warm engine

 

[thethee]

Spring cleaning. 1978 New Yorker.

First photo, look at headlight doors. Fitting fine.

View attachment 594170

Starred it, fiddled with with knods/dials, etc .. hadn't startied in five months, last used lights longer ago than that.

AFTER, headlight doors misaligned after operation - both sides have SAME misalignment.

I just don't know how to adjust them. Seem to otherwise be operating fine.

Anyone with advice/iinstructions OR can point to a thread there where previously discussed?

Thanks in advance.

View attachment 594172

I have the same issue on my Imp and those also used to shut great. They have been misaligned ever since I reinstalled the front clip after paint last year. So I'd be real interested if you find a solution!

 

[marko]

I have mid-70's Lincoln (Continentals & Mark's) in the fleet, also with hidden headlights.

BUT, these are VACUUM actuated, one vacuum canister PER door with a buncha rubber hoses running to a "tree" on the intake manifold and to the swtich IN the car, Over time, if car is not started, the "system" looses pressure and the headlight doors open.

Start the car and in a few seconds you'll hear the doors slam shut when engine runs.

These mopars are electric MOTOR driven (seems to me like a SINGLE motor drives BOTH doors r using a SINGLE metal bar) , is turned by the motor). They will stay open or closed, I believe, depending on what position light switch is in

I am certain they ARE adjustable (e.g., get blocked/restricted by snow/ice, whatever, in real operating condistions) .. but maybe they "break"/wear out simply due to old age.

Anyway, all this happened in 10 seconds today. All good, then they wont close tight.

Somebody will give us some guidance.

in the past ive had some success by reversing the torsion rod (metal bar) that opens the headlight doors - pull it out, flip it around and reinstall it

 

[amazinblue82]

in the past ive had some success by reversing the torsion rod (metal bar) that opens the headlight doors - pull it out, flip it around and reinstall it

Thanks chief.

I woulda guessed an "adjustment screw" is loosened, allowing the "metal bar" to move to reposition the doors with motor OFF, then re-tightened in a new orientation vis-a-vis the motor, thereby curing the "aligment" problem with BOTH doors at same time.

No?

 

[marko]

For Sale - Hidden headlight Grill Motor $595?

This resembles what's behind the grille in my car. May NOT be my part number .. just looks like what's operating on my "78

I think Chrysler used similar motors (with specific mod's for different cars, but perhaps SAME motor itself) on C's with hidden headlights from early 70''s, till EOP. Maybe even on other carlines.

My thought off an "adjustment screw" may be BS. Bar is "square" and where it goes THRU the motor may be a plastic part that wears ("rounds") out.

If so, YiKES...

View attachment 594215

same part number as above 3431438 ?

Description
Headlamp Motor# 3431211 / 3431438 – Date 321-9 – B – C – Body – 1970-74 – USED

Fits 1970 B body Dodge Charger, 1970-71 C body Chrysler 300, 1970-74 Chrysler Imperial models with concealed / rotating headlamps. This is a complete used original item from a 1970 Charger. It does not operate.

The plastic drive gear mechanism that turns the torsion bar is damaged and will need repair. It has part# 3431211 and a date of 321st day 1969 stamped on housing.

It has the correct early style large manual adjuster wheel found on the 1970 models,with a 2 wire harness with connector. Sold as a core for be-build. 8-34-280.

View attachment 594216
View attachment 594217

hehe ive always been scared to turn that screw

 

[Sport Fury 67]

Helped move my 23 yo son. His friends had never seen a station wagon and were shocked on how much we could load into it.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Finally took my Polara out of the garage and shook out the cobwebs. After sitting all winter I figured that instead of dumping gas down the bowl. I would crank it a bit to build oil pressure. I dropped the choke down and cranked it less than 10 seconds and it fired right up. I think the new fuel pump push rod pumps up the carb a little quicker than my worn one did. So I took it for a quick 20 mile drive and then brought it back and checked a few things while it was warm. Timing was a hair advance so I backed it back down to 8 degrees (spec is 7-1/2) carb nuts were a little loose by 1/4 -1/2 turn. Idle in neutral was sitting at 550 so I took it back up to 600. Dwell was right on at 29.9. Tires aired up to 33psi. And checked the rod height which was right on at 1-1/8” difference from the ball joint to the adjusting blade and equal side to side. If I get bored this weekend I’ll check the alignment. Not too worried as my tires are wearing perfectly and drives down the road straight with very little to no steering input. Need to brush the dust off and drive.

 

[LocuMob]

Helped move my 23 yo son. His friends had never seen a station wagon and were shocked on how much we could load into it. View attachment 594377

I had to be told by @sixpkrt that you bought this wagon, Congratulations Steve!!! In the words of @ayilar "will you be bringing this to Volo?"

 

[LocuMob]

Speaking of @ayilar, he stopped by my house for an hour on his way back to Illinois, enough time for me to show him my Mopar messes! Funny when a fellow multiple Mopar owner tells you you have too many cars.

I got to go for a short ride in his Buick Roadmaster estate wagon, which was nice and comfy.

 

[ayilar]

Thank you @LocuMob for being a wonderful host and guide!

AFAIR, I did not say that you have too many cars. Rather, I said (when you opened the third door, I saw what was there, and my eyes went ):´Wow, and I thought that _ I _ had too many cars’

—> For all we know, you may have convinced me to keep one or two more C-bodies than I was planning to (and I am in trouble now)…



PS: Here is the Roadie next to a very cool Monaco. I understand that you bought it as a parts car, but the car looked good!

 

[LocuMob]

AFAIR, I did not say that you have too many cars. Rather, I said (when you opened the third door, I saw what was there, and my eyes went ):´Wow, and I thought that _ I _ had too many cars’

Either way, we have a couple more than enough!

 

[LocuMob]

Got my personalized collector plates for the 1971 Monaco wagon today, no more registration fees ever!!! Love that I can do this in my fine state. The plate will make no sense to anyone but Wyatt and myself, and a YouTuber. Hence forth, she shall be known as UNBREADED!!!

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

Loaded it up and moved it in anticipation of the near future.

 

[NY69]

Got my brake booster back from the rebuilding service today.
Cost me an arm and a leg, but if it works as good as it looks, I am happy with it.

 

[GOLDMYN]

Got my brake booster back from the rebuilding service today.
Cost me an arm and a leg, but if it works as good as it looks, I am happy with it.

View attachment 596732

arm and leg? If i'm not mistaken Dewey used to charge around $150.00 ?

 

[Xenon]

arm and leg? If i'm not mistaken Dewey used to charge around $150.00 ?

And gasoline used to be 32 cents...
It's Booster Mark now and prices are 250.$ / 350.$

And is now in Lynnwood Wash, not Oregon any longer...


.

 

[NY69]

I live in The Netherlands... different country, different prices.
Paid 600 Euro's and that does not include the new master cilinder!

 

[MetalManiacAZ]

Inflation is a biiiiiitch. I'm glad I got both of mine done a couple years ago for $200 each. I'll be selling a kidney soon on ebay for my 2 translucent wheels to be recast.