1969 Imperial progress thread

I don't think I have ever seen obsession as strong as yours.
You came here not really knowing wth you wanted and now you're polishing carburetor needle valves.
I think you found what you wanted.
 
Thanks! Nice to hear all your kind words! It's nice to get positive feedback on the work you do! :)

I started my next projekts at home today, the dashboard and all its gauges. All the plastic have a white scale from the softener on it and I started to wet sand all the pieces... After that, I will paint it with a matte clear coat.

To repair a few cracks I ordered, as mentioned in another thread, PlastiFix. I hope it works as good as shown in their ad video!

PlastiFix.jpg

I will build my own clock for the dash because I can't find a working clock for a reasonable price... So I ordered a new radio clockwork to build my own clock with the leftover parts from the mice toilet which sometimes was my clock. I wan't it to look like the stock clock, but with modern inner life.

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Does someone know where I can get wood grain vinyl on a roll to cut out the pieces I need?

PlastiFix.jpg


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Look for a 3M Di Noc foil distributer or kitchen store; there are many around even over here.
The Di Noc stuff could even be the real Thing used back in the day.
 
These are better than nothing parts, personally for the money I'd just use raw sheet metal. The reliefs are tiny compared to factory and the general fit is awful.


Alan


Doesn't sound like what I'm looking for. Since the holes are not too big, I thought I could just use small patches from the pans to replace the rusted thru sections, but not if they won't fit...

Looks like a pain in the *** to reproduce the exact chaped sections from raw sheet metal.


Some pics of the holes:

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Front left


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Front right


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Rear right


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Rear left - Thank god it's completely rust free

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Think it'll make more sense to cut out a larger chunk of the rust area, patching it up in small pieces will be more work and the rusted thin areas will be prone to burning new holes in.

I'll probably be in Rüsselsheim May 10th, I*ll pm you when I know for sure, maybe possible to take a look at the car if we both have time.
 
hm, ok. Maybe better, yes.

Sure, let me know when you are in Rüsselsheim. You're always welcome!
 
My old Gates belts are in awesome shape for their age, but they are at least 32 years old. So I better change them. Summit show these as the one for my engine, but I've read something about "Gatorback pulleys"... Do I need special pulleys for these Belts or will they work with my stock pulleys?

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Doesn't sound like what I'm looking for. Since the holes are not too big, I thought I could just use small patches from the pans to replace the rusted thru sections, but not if they won't fit...

Looks like a pain in the *** to reproduce the exact chaped sections from raw sheet metal.


Some pics of the holes:

View attachment 29329
Front left


View attachment 29331
Front right


View attachment 29332
Rear right



Rear left - Thank god it's completely rust free

I have similar pin holes in the 300. I'm going to use POR 15 rust encapsulator with fiberglass matting. A couple of coats along with the fiberglass should make it strong enough to be under the carpet. Then again I'm not going for show car, I just want to seal it up and drive it. Plus it will keep it preserved for the next guy in case they want to cut and weld.

James
 
I'd rather go for a not so perfect welding before using these mats. not accepted for German tech inspectors on unibodies in the first place, but I'm not so sure if it'll stick to the metal when there's everything sealed with extensive paint for rust protection which raised the risk of further storing humidity in between. The results can be seen on any unrstored Hurst Hood when you seperate both parts.
 
I have similar pin holes in the 300. I'm going to use POR 15 rust encapsulator with fiberglass matting. A couple of coats along with the fiberglass should make it strong enough to be under the carpet. Then again I'm not going for show car, I just want to seal it up and drive it. Plus it will keep it preserved for the next guy in case they want to cut and weld.

James

I'd rather go for a not so perfect welding before using these mats. not accepted for German tech inspectors on unibodies in the first place, but I'm not so sure if it'll stick to the metal when there's everything sealed with extensive paint for rust protection which raised the risk of further storing humidity in between. The results can be seen on any unrstored Hurst Hood when you seperate both parts.


I think I would also prefer the welding option but thanks for your option! I agree, the tech inspector would not allow to leave the rust holes in the floor.
 
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