70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Yeah I'm just kidding but beautiful detail work.
Are the floor pans in my Imperial interchanging with the 300 ones? I found these from CLASSIC 2 CURRENT
http://www.c2cfabrication.com/wp-co...product_filter.php?make=9&model=68&syear=1969
These are better than nothing parts, personally for the money I'd just use raw sheet metal. The reliefs are tiny compared to factory and the general fit is awful.
Alan
Are the floor pans in my Imperial interchanging with the 300 ones? I found these from CLASSIC 2 CURRENT
http://www.c2cfabrication.com/wp-co...product_filter.php?make=9&model=68&syear=1969
Doesn't sound like what I'm looking for. Since the holes are not too big, I thought I could just use small patches from the pans to replace the rusted thru sections, but not if they won't fit...
Looks like a pain in the *** to reproduce the exact chaped sections from raw sheet metal.
Some pics of the holes:
View attachment 29329
Front left
View attachment 29331
Front right
View attachment 29332
Rear right
Rear left - Thank god it's completely rust free
I have similar pin holes in the 300. I'm going to use POR 15 rust encapsulator with fiberglass matting. A couple of coats along with the fiberglass should make it strong enough to be under the carpet. Then again I'm not going for show car, I just want to seal it up and drive it. Plus it will keep it preserved for the next guy in case they want to cut and weld.
James
I'd rather go for a not so perfect welding before using these mats. not accepted for German tech inspectors on unibodies in the first place, but I'm not so sure if it'll stick to the metal when there's everything sealed with extensive paint for rust protection which raised the risk of further storing humidity in between. The results can be seen on any unrstored Hurst Hood when you seperate both parts.
What's a tech inspector? Is that like the division of motor vehicles in the states?