Sift through that sludge and see if there are any pieces of the valve stem seals. They will be broken black hard pieces that appear like plastic. Unscrew the oil pickup and soak it in solvent for a few days. Then rinse it out and see if any pieces will shake out of it. They stop at the screen and get packed in there.
67 383 rebuild suggestions
- Thread starter swisherred
- Start date
swisherred
Senior Member
I'm actually changing the pickup and oil pan altogether. Its bent from the oil pan hitting it when it was crushed. I didn't find any hard chunks...other than hard oil. Lots of this in the top above the cam too....cleaning it all out.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
That's nasty! Clean it up, change the chain, put some miles on it, it will run like a top.
swisherred
Senior Member
The cam doesn't look bad...some discoloration in spots and minor visible wear but no scoring or grooves....will probably keep it for now unless I really need to change it.....not looking to get too far into this and get overwhelmed. Might go ahead and pull the heads anyway to clean them out too...the heat riser passage is pretty crusted over....but the exhaust valves are pretty clean.
marty koirtyohann
Well-Known Member
ok the nylon is off the cam gear so its not long before it jumps time replace it with a double row timing set I like Cloyes but u can get one cheaper from jegs
COMP Cams High Energy Timing Chain Set 1956-79 Chrysler V8 383-440
Part Number: 249-3204
Ships Today
Ends Today - $20 off $200, $50 off $500 and $100 off $1000. Enter Promotion Code: SAVE100
$36.99
QTY COMP Cams 3204: High Energy Timing Chain Set 1956-79 Chrysler V8 383-440 | JEGS
this is a 3 bolt gear u can get a single bolt cam gear too i put the 3 bolt cam in my new yorker & i love it .if u want the cam i put in m get back to me & i will give the part #
COMP Cams High Energy Timing Chain Set 1956-79 Chrysler V8 383-440
Part Number: 249-3204
Ships Today
Ends Today - $20 off $200, $50 off $500 and $100 off $1000. Enter Promotion Code: SAVE100
$36.99
QTY COMP Cams 3204: High Energy Timing Chain Set 1956-79 Chrysler V8 383-440 | JEGS
this is a 3 bolt gear u can get a single bolt cam gear too i put the 3 bolt cam in my new yorker & i love it .if u want the cam i put in m get back to me & i will give the part #
swisherred
Senior Member
Getting better....took me a week but the block is finally clean. Internally there is almost no wear on the parts...even the valve seals are intact. They are getting replaced along with the timing chain and gears. Still have all the bolt on parts to clean and the trans to clean up.
Looks good, sounds good. Good work there it will make it a much nicer, reliable car, plus increasing the enjoyment and value. Congrats!
On the front of the crank the little shield or “slinger” make sure to put it on the right direction or the chain will eat it. See photo evidence. It needs to protrude forward.
On the front of the crank the little shield or “slinger” make sure to put it on the right direction or the chain will eat it. See photo evidence. It needs to protrude forward.
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swisherred
Senior Member
I was thinking about it...I thought they came with the plug kit but they didn't...not removing the heads. The inside was actually pretty clean as far as rust....just some surface rust, no chunks in the bottom like I expected.
swisherred
Senior Member
So while I have this thing apart should I go ahead and replace the rear main seal? The gasket kit came with onebut I know it's not like the original rope seal. I don't believe mine is leaking at the moment but I'm not 100% sure. The bellhousing has some grime in it but I don't know what it came from offhand.
Also, where can I get an exhaust manifold stud to replace the one I broke? Didn't see any at the parts store that were correct.
Also, where can I get an exhaust manifold stud to replace the one I broke? Didn't see any at the parts store that were correct.
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swisherred
Senior Member
Ok...almost ready to paint the engine. Valves seals are done, exhaust bolt extracted, oil pan replaced, oil pump installed...primed with Vaseline, all new gaskets, timing chain and gears replaced, water pump freshened up, everything is degreased and clean. Waiting for the pan to cure so I can rotate the engine again and possibly do some gasket matching on the intake before that gets painted. Getting there..slowly but it's going. Next is the trans seals front and rear and cleaning and painting it....then rebuilding the front and rear suspension before the engine goes back in. Still thinking about installing 440 torsion bars for a little more stiffness in the ride too.
swisherred
Senior Member
can anyone tell me where I can get the correct exhaust manifold studs for my engine? im ready to install the manifolds, but still need at least one...more if any others break installing. 1967 383
I think Dorman still makes the replacement studs. If your local Napa has a Dorman catalogue, they should be able to look it up. Studs are a standard grade 5, so ace hardware might be able to supply the correct length. The nuts are a specialty item, so you will need to try and salvage your old ones if possible. The 440 high performance engines used some of the same studs, but you would need to by the whole kit just to get the studs and that will set you back about $70.
Dave
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swisherred
Senior Member
cant i just swap to a bolt? ive spent 4 hours searching for a single shred of information regarding this one stud i need...and still cant find anything that tells me what i need....even using the mopar part number gets me nowhere...
They used studs because they could spray the nuts with penetrating oil to aid removal. A bolt will be fairly certain to twist off if you need to remove it. A stud with a nut is also less likely to work loose from the repeated heating and cooling of the manifold. You should stay with a stud. Take a break and visit your local ace store if Napa can not find them.
Dave
swisherred
Senior Member
if i knew what the dimensions were I could find them....I know 3/8-16 and 3/8-24 are the threads but no clue on lengths.....and why are the nuts specialty items? mine was seized onto the stud so naturally i threw it away because it was just an old rusted on nut to me.
Measure the length that sticks out of the head and add 1/2", which will be adequate. The nuts are crowned slightly on the base to fit the manifold. I will look thru my parts box to see if I have any.
Dave
swisherred
Senior Member
so the nuts have to go on in a specific orientation as well?
No luck on the nuts, if the stud that broke had a plug wire bracket on it, you can use a standard 3/8" nut as the bracket will keep the nut from gouging the manifold. Is this a log or HP manifold? The log manifold does not matter, they are all the same. The High Performance manifold, certain nuts go in certain locations. Those are a collar type nut that have a hex on top of a long sleeve.
Dave
swisherred
Senior Member
Log style manifold non HP...I believe #6 exhaust port...I have a few dorman numbers for the bolts...I will measure and see what fits...dont remember a plug wire bracket there....just the shields on the head bolts. thank you for looking btw.
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