65Fury440
Senior Member
Speaking of Stan @commando1
Has anyone mentioned checking the thermostat?
Has anyone mentioned checking the thermostat?
67 Fury 440 Engine Problems
- Thread starter SportFury70
- Start date
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Well, tell you what.
Vacuum reading @ the 10degrees mentioned
Vacuum reading @ 15 degrees BTDC
Vacuum reading @ 20 degrees BTDC
All at idle.
Once that is complete. Need a total advance swing in timing ie, how many degrees it advances across the rpm range. While still at10 degrees increase the rpm to ~3200 and what is the total timing advance at, at that rpm? Stock style dist. should be in the 32 degrees area (22+10), this is not suitable for a 4.35" bore engine.
My guess is that the crappy dist is advancing like 30+degrees this making 30+ +10 initial for a total of +40 all in by 2100 rpm. Too much for 10-11:1 compression(detonating mentioned many pages ago).
Hard starting when hot is due to lazy initial timing (10). A cam like I would think you would put in a aluminum ported head with headers should have enough overlap to move some air, in turn lowering manifold vacuum causing the stalling and hard start when hot.
My shoot from the hip guess would be around 18-22 initial timing and 36-40 total timing, and depending on cranking compression psi 2300 rpm for low psi and wait till 3000rpm for high psi compression this would be mainly to combat cruise RPM pinging/detonating.
Now of course you can chase tight this and that, but experience says that those issues cause failures, not drivability issues. Besides, yours was built just fine. The fuel (maybe) problem is self created by having the electric pump. Needs to be one or the other if your having high speed lean out from fuel flow, you first need to look at fuel lines, carb inlet, sending unit postion and tank, then think about pump or pumps again at high speed. The push rod could be a problem for mechanical pump, but I think unlikely due to very low hours on this engine.
These are my basic thoughts or areas to check first, but could be narrowed by having some readings.
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rags
Senior Member
that.
if it ran good until you put it in gear, you probably have low vacuum ,but we need readings to tell.
SportFury70
Senior Member
Hello All,
Yes another useless post by me but I figured I would give an update on the project. We performed a hot valve guide test last night on the 440 stroker engine on the left divers side valves only, no numbers were involved. Yes I told my stepfather it's not the valves it's fuel related but it was after we performed the valve test because he wanted to just to see. We did the test and it is not the valves (like I personally thought). We took the bolts out of the valve cover, started the car, and let it run to about operating temperate, shut it off, then took the valve cover off and did the test with a little bar and piece of wood. Just so happens nothing was tight, but I suggested testing the right side valves also anyways just in case but we did not last night but probably will soon. Also we tripped the starter relay, watched the left side valves, and nothing was sticking or anything from what we saw so we figured if it was that bad we would of thrown a push rod already. We talked to @FURYGT, a very good friend this morning and he suggested a couple things such as a performance fuel pump and line and a couple other things.
Yes another useless post by me but I figured I would give an update on the project. We performed a hot valve guide test last night on the 440 stroker engine on the left divers side valves only, no numbers were involved. Yes I told my stepfather it's not the valves it's fuel related but it was after we performed the valve test because he wanted to just to see. We did the test and it is not the valves (like I personally thought). We took the bolts out of the valve cover, started the car, and let it run to about operating temperate, shut it off, then took the valve cover off and did the test with a little bar and piece of wood. Just so happens nothing was tight, but I suggested testing the right side valves also anyways just in case but we did not last night but probably will soon. Also we tripped the starter relay, watched the left side valves, and nothing was sticking or anything from what we saw so we figured if it was that bad we would of thrown a push rod already. We talked to @FURYGT, a very good friend this morning and he suggested a couple things such as a performance fuel pump and line and a couple other things.
To expand and clarify on the above post, a new distributor from Rick Erenberg has been installed but the car has not been test driven. They are going to try bypassing the electric fuel pump to see if it is causing a restriction when off or an over pressurization situation when on. Discussed timing and vacum readings as outlined by 70bigblock dodge and a few other things.
SportFury70
Senior Member
Hi All,
I have another update on the stroker Fury for everybody. We tested the right or passengers side of the valves this time to see if they stuck just in case, and just so happens they did not. We also put in another coil to test that and it did not change anything. That said my stepfather talked with FURYGT about the car and he suggested getting an MSD Blaster II from Jegs and a new HiRev ECU or brain from Mr. Erenburg (the same person who we got the distributor), and also a Holley Blue fuel electric fuel pump. So we are going to try the MSD Blaster and the HiRev brain, and if THOSE don't fix it then we will try the fuel pump then look into the fuel system.
I have another update on the stroker Fury for everybody. We tested the right or passengers side of the valves this time to see if they stuck just in case, and just so happens they did not. We also put in another coil to test that and it did not change anything. That said my stepfather talked with FURYGT about the car and he suggested getting an MSD Blaster II from Jegs and a new HiRev ECU or brain from Mr. Erenburg (the same person who we got the distributor), and also a Holley Blue fuel electric fuel pump. So we are going to try the MSD Blaster and the HiRev brain, and if THOSE don't fix it then we will try the fuel pump then look into the fuel system.
3175375
Senior Member
Good that the valves weren’t sticking. Continue checking each element needed for fire: spark, fuel and compression. You’ll find it!
SportFury70
Senior Member
Hi All,
I have an update on the '67 Fury 440 stroker. Nothing done to the car since last time. I however personally bought a Mr. Gasket fuel pressure gauge from Advance Auto, and Lucas Oil Racing Formula Octane Booster for my stepfather for the car to give him a hint besides telling him that it is the fuel. Here is what I got, and hopefully we will now be going somewhere with this car.....
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
But wait there's more, my stepfather took FURYGT's advice and bought an MSD Blaster II coil and a new ECU from Mr. Erenberg. Which by the way these have arrived to our house. So the next thing we will do is put these in and see what the car does, and hopefully these will do the trick. I will keep everyone updated to what happens.....
I have an update on the '67 Fury 440 stroker. Nothing done to the car since last time. I however personally bought a Mr. Gasket fuel pressure gauge from Advance Auto, and Lucas Oil Racing Formula Octane Booster for my stepfather for the car to give him a hint besides telling him that it is the fuel. Here is what I got, and hopefully we will now be going somewhere with this car.....
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
But wait there's more, my stepfather took FURYGT's advice and bought an MSD Blaster II coil and a new ECU from Mr. Erenberg. Which by the way these have arrived to our house. So the next thing we will do is put these in and see what the car does, and hopefully these will do the trick. I will keep everyone updated to what happens.....
RGORHAM29
Active Member
yep - still looks good as I last saw it this spring. Good luck Eric. Hope you figure it out. Shame not to drive it.
SportFury70
Senior Member
We do not believe the car has one.
SportFury70
Senior Member
Hi All,
Not to say it out loud but I think we maybe getting somewhere with the '67 Fury 440 stroker engine, I got a bigger update than usual. As I mentioned in my last post, we bought an MSD Blaster II coil and a new HiRev 7500 brain from Mr. Erenberg that Mr. @FURYGT recommended. We put the Blaster coil and MSD ballast resistor in, then we WERE going to put in the Erenburg brain BUT we read the instructions first. Good thing we did too, as the brain was not compatible with the MSD coil. According to the instructions the brain needed to be run with a stock coil, so that said we took the MSD coil out BUT left the ballast resistor in then put the brain in.
NOW, we start the car and let it run for about 20 to 25 minutes and it ran very good. Better than it normally does to be honest. We put it in gear while the car was sitting in the garage and normally it dies BUT it didn't this time, which was a good sign. We did this about 2 maybe 3 times and still no stalling. So NOW we take it out for a test drive in the evening when it was cooler out than during the day, we took it to get gas and back home which was about a 10-15 minute drive going and coming back and it ran flawlessly with no stalling. We let it sit at the gas station while we filled it up and let it heat soak, it started right back up with no issue. We are not out of the woods yet though, the true test will be taking it out during a hot 85-90% day and seeing what it does but for now things are looking up for this car.
Not to say it out loud but I think we maybe getting somewhere with the '67 Fury 440 stroker engine, I got a bigger update than usual. As I mentioned in my last post, we bought an MSD Blaster II coil and a new HiRev 7500 brain from Mr. Erenberg that Mr. @FURYGT recommended. We put the Blaster coil and MSD ballast resistor in, then we WERE going to put in the Erenburg brain BUT we read the instructions first. Good thing we did too, as the brain was not compatible with the MSD coil. According to the instructions the brain needed to be run with a stock coil, so that said we took the MSD coil out BUT left the ballast resistor in then put the brain in.
NOW, we start the car and let it run for about 20 to 25 minutes and it ran very good. Better than it normally does to be honest. We put it in gear while the car was sitting in the garage and normally it dies BUT it didn't this time, which was a good sign. We did this about 2 maybe 3 times and still no stalling. So NOW we take it out for a test drive in the evening when it was cooler out than during the day, we took it to get gas and back home which was about a 10-15 minute drive going and coming back and it ran flawlessly with no stalling. We let it sit at the gas station while we filled it up and let it heat soak, it started right back up with no issue. We are not out of the woods yet though, the true test will be taking it out during a hot 85-90% day and seeing what it does but for now things are looking up for this car.
Sounds very promising. I think the distributors that you were using were no good and the high performance module helped give the spark that the 520" needed. You may want to ask Rick E. why a stock coil is needed with his high performance module. One would think that a high performance module would need a performance coil.
SportFury70
Senior Member
Hi All,
I got an update on the '67 Fury II with the stroker 440 engine. We had some good and bad things happen to us today, and I swear this car MAY be cursed or something. We took it out for a test drive today in the 80 degree weather and it performed great with no stalling. We got it up to 110 MPH on the highway as a matter of fact too.
The Good- we took it out for about an hours ride and the temp got hot and nothing bad happened,
However.......
The Bad- the little hub cover on the rim was hanging off by a thread with only one screw and we heard it on the way home flappin' around and were like wtf is that now. Mind you this was just fine and tight the other day. The other bad news is..... the freakin' heater core is now leakin' so now we gotta get one from RockAuto and fix that. I swear it's always somethin' with this car.
I got an update on the '67 Fury II with the stroker 440 engine. We had some good and bad things happen to us today, and I swear this car MAY be cursed or something. We took it out for a test drive today in the 80 degree weather and it performed great with no stalling. We got it up to 110 MPH on the highway as a matter of fact too.
The Good- we took it out for about an hours ride and the temp got hot and nothing bad happened,
However.......
The Bad- the little hub cover on the rim was hanging off by a thread with only one screw and we heard it on the way home flappin' around and were like wtf is that now. Mind you this was just fine and tight the other day. The other bad news is..... the freakin' heater core is now leakin' so now we gotta get one from RockAuto and fix that. I swear it's always somethin' with this car.
Sounds good. Why not bypass the heater core since the heat controls have been removed.
65Fury440
Senior Member
Great news! Glad you're enjoying such a cool car.
Same thing happened to me with the little allen head bolts.
https://www.amazon.com/American-Racing-Wheels-970076-Replacement/dp/B003TTTN66
Same thing happened to me with the little allen head bolts.
https://www.amazon.com/American-Racing-Wheels-970076-Replacement/dp/B003TTTN66
Northcoast300h
Active Member
I was having similar issues. Silly Mopar engineers put the coil in one of the hottest areas of the engine and tipped on its side. I moved the petronix coil to the lower fender and put it upright where it gets plenty of air from the fan. I also bought a 1000 CFM thermoquad and wrapped the fuel line except near the fan. I added cold air setup which is a noticable difference above 80 degrees. I bought a new OEM fan and clutch, covered all the places air could escape around the radiator so all air has to go through the radiator now. Since then, I've never had any stalling, hesitation or overheating problems since. However when sitting for a short period of time, temp gauge goes above 250 degrees. Still starts and goes down to 210 within a minute but I'm going to add an electric fan later this year. I just want it to run correctly so I guess my issues are easier to fix than high performance engines
I'm not interested in going fast since almost every new car today is faster than 60's muscle cars. (Kia's 4.9 seconds 0-60, Hyundai 5.2 or just announced last week, Ford's 2021 1400hp Mustang...That's just crazy (almost as crazy as going 110mph in a 53 yr old car...hee, hee!)
I'm not interested in going fast since almost every new car today is faster than 60's muscle cars. (Kia's 4.9 seconds 0-60, Hyundai 5.2 or just announced last week, Ford's 2021 1400hp Mustang...That's just crazy (almost as crazy as going 110mph in a 53 yr old car...hee, hee!)
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Kram Edyorloh
Member
I would have chucked that "pressure release" Stant? rad cap at the same time. ^^
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