I am removing the aftermarket deep transmission pan from my 68 New Yorker and reinstalling the stock pan. The filter has a filter extension on it to set it deeper in the pan. When removing the extension for the stock pan, is there a plate, gasket or stand-off required to mount the filter in the stock location? Does the stock filter just bolt to the bottom of the valve body directly?
68 727 FILTER QUESTION
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It just bolts to the valve body. No gaskets or stand offs.
I think they are 10-24, but I could be wrong.
Here's some on eBay MOPAR 904/727 TORQUEFLITE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL FILTER MOUNTING BOLTS OEM | eBay
I looked around a bit on the intrawebs and 10-24 does look to be correct. I can't find the correct length though. It seems to me that they are an odd length. Too long and the bolts will bottom out and not hold the filter. 1 1/8" long maybe??
You might be time and money ahead to just buy the ones on eBay.
You might be time and money ahead to just buy the ones on eBay.
71Polara383
Kid with ballcap
I can run next door and measure some with my calipers.
71Polara383
Kid with ballcap
The filter bolts / screws are 10 - 24. The length of the threaded part (from washer to end of bolt) is 1.16 inches.
(posted before I read the entire thread...)
Last week I bought the CHAMP / LUBER-FINER T614 filter and gasket set from rockauto for about $6. It comes with a gasket for the 727 and 904. I haven't taken then out of the package yet, but the gaskets look like they're 100% rubber. Not cork.
(posted before I read the entire thread...)
Last week I bought the CHAMP / LUBER-FINER T614 filter and gasket set from rockauto for about $6. It comes with a gasket for the 727 and 904. I haven't taken then out of the package yet, but the gaskets look like they're 100% rubber. Not cork.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
The latter. I too diddled w after market pans a bit. My octogenarian transmission guru advised against this. I suspect he finally Translated to the Big Shop In the Sky, but his youthful septuagenarian assistant still does business.
I just cant get that aftermarket pan to seal. I have tried 3 different types of gaskets, dollied the pan flat, checked all surfaces with a flat edge. I am sick of taking it off to try something else. The stock pan is going back on.
Are you sure it's the pan? Leaks from the shift lever seal will drip down and around the pan and look like the pan is leaking. Same for leaks at the dip stick tube.
I did that seal 2 weeks a ago. That area is now dry. I pulled the valve body to do it and used a new "performance" pan gasket in hopes the pan would seal properly. Nope.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
EXACTLY MY EXPERIENCE! The Wise Old Dwarves said to stick w the factory steel pans ONLY, and to use OEM gaskets. Naught but bigger stains in my driveway carpet and admittedly CLEAN tranny fluid in my trans came from the after market ****, regardless of which expensive gasket or/and compound went to seal it. It leaks a little again now, 4 yrs after they sealed it up the second time. I won't touch it until it gets worse than a pint/week. I lose about 1 pint a month at present. Having 3 other TFs in storage, I can and WILL put a more modern version than this rebuilt '66 one back on. They showed me how the pump chamber had been worn over size, and advised that the old unit be retired when their build fails. I concur.
One of my rockauto purchases last year was ATP TO15 selector shaft seal (price was under $2). I had a look at the manual last night, replacing it requires dropping the valve body (something like a dozen or two screws?). It was somewhat more involved than I was anticipating.
The engine and trans is currently out of the car, the trans pan has been off for about a week, the pan is back from being powder coated. Should I tackle this job (shaft seal) ?
The engine and trans is currently out of the car, the trans pan has been off for about a week, the pan is back from being powder coated. Should I tackle this job (shaft seal) ?
Yes.
I bought the special tool and could not get it to work properly no matter how I did it.
Transmission out of car? Seems like a perfect time to do it.
I think with it out of the car, you could punch a hole in it and pry the old seal out pretty easy.
3175375
Senior Member
Replace the seals (there are two in there - one for the outside of the linkage and a smaller one that goes between the shift lever and the throttle linkage). Both are available.
This is the ATP TO15 selector shaft seal I bought:
I did not buy a second seal. My first read through the manual I did not catch a reference to a second seal. Can this seal be pried out through the top side, without needing to remove the valve body?
Is there a second seal? What does it look like, where does it go, is there an aftermarket P/N for it?
I did not buy a second seal. My first read through the manual I did not catch a reference to a second seal. Can this seal be pried out through the top side, without needing to remove the valve body?
Is there a second seal? What does it look like, where does it go, is there an aftermarket P/N for it?
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