78 NYB Holley Sniper install.. the end of my lean burn fun

Today’s bit of progress…. Only had 2 hours to give it.

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Some measurements to see how much I needed to extend the slot in the kickdown bar. Holley linkage sits an inch further back than the Thermoquad and about 3/4 inch higher. Distance between center lines of throttles shafts to the linkage points are about the same (with my fabricated adapter). But being higher on the Holley, I’m running into the bottom of the air cleaner with the Cruise control linkage by about 3/8 of an inch. Will need to relocate it outboard and down. I have a longer link to use to make up the difference.
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Here it is installed…. Went with 1/2 inch figuring I can creat an adjustment later to make downshifts where I want it. It just touches at about 20% throttle per the on board TPS.
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Cleaned up the wires to the ballast.
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Still a few wires to go. The original coil positive, the purple temp sensor wire, a/c compressor wire and a blue wire with white tracer I haven’t been able to figure out. Anyone out there know?

These I want to wrap and put away from the coil and temp sensor to the Holley (which are already in their own holly provided cover).
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Overall view…. outside this time. She’s a roller now and they need room in the shop for more “profitable work”.

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Anyone out there have a 440 air cleaner without the hole I can buy?
 
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A little more tonight after I got home…..

The “coffee can” vacuum canister arrived today.

And I got a parts Thermoquad in today as well. I needed the throttle plate for the one I just rebuilt.

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The other shop….
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Throttle plate for a 73 340….

This one must have been pulled after its first rebuild which went horribly wrong. Loose main jet, wrong floor jet gaskets, crap in the bowl.

But the throttle shafts are tight in the plate. After 50 years mine were not.
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My paint booth….
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Cleaned up good.

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The can looks great and the throttle plate is cleaning up amazingly well. Happy night.
 
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Maybe you've mentioned it in this or your other thread, but is there a reason your distributor is setup 180 degrees out? Stock #1 position is around 6 o'clock?
Javier fixed the factory mistake for a lack of a better word. I always put number 1 wire on towards the top/10-11 position. The wires lay out better on the engine instead of wanting to cross or go around the cap.
 
Evenings delight….. two projects at the same time.

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Cleaning the Thermoquad I got for parts continues and putting the mounting plate on the vacuum can. Cool dry evening.
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Put some solder on the back to hold the can better. Between that and staking brackets tabs will hopefully keep it from coming loose. It was an issue.
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The phenolic body was as clean and perfect as the NOS one I used to replace the original when I rebuilt the one in the road runner this weekend. Of course, only after I removed all the wasp nests in the float bowls.
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Tested it… perhaps I should have started there… holds as much vacuum as you give it for as long as you want…. PASS
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Original bracket on.
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Talk about interestingly bad rebuild. I’ve never seen hand shaved floats. Say nothing of more wasp nests.
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Near secondary was completely loose.
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The rest was surprisingly in good shape. Whoever tried to run this disaster probably had some backfire issues with the secondaries.
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Usually worn or ruined screws are mostly perfect. Even the car playing still looks good.

Hopefully, tomorrow, vacuum can goes back in and we can get the hoses back from the fabricator.
 
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OK, I'll show my ignorance. Why would someone "shave" the floats? More fuel in the bowl? less force to close the needle and seat? Or???
Thanks, Lindsay
 
Finished one and found one

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Vacuum canister done and in. Held vacuum overnight.
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Need to get a longer bolt on the top of the alternator.

Find out this afternoon if a/c hoses are ready. Wish me luck.
 
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Today’s bit of progress…. Only had 2 hours to give it.

View attachment 585903
Some measurements to see how much I needed to extend the slot in the kickdown bar. Holley linkage sits an inch further back than the Thermoquad and about 3/4 inch higher. Distance between center lines of throttles shafts to the linkage points are about the same (with my fabricated adapter). But being higher on the Holley, I’m running into the bottom of the air cleaner with the Cruise control linkage by about 3/8 of an inch. Will need to relocate it outboard and down. I have a longer link to use to make up the difference.
View attachment 585904
Here it is installed…. Went with 1/2 inch figuring I can creat an adjustment later to make downshifts where I want it. It just touches at about 20% throttle per the on board TPS.
View attachment 585905
Cleaned up the wires to the ballast.
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Still a few wires to go. The original coil positive, the purple temp sensor wire, a/c compressor wire and a blue wire with white tracer I haven’t been able to figure out. Anyone out there know?

These I want to wrap and put away from the coil and temp sensor to the Holley (which are already in their own holly provided cover).
View attachment 585907
Overall view…. outside this time. She’s a roller now and they need room in the shop for more “profitable work”.

View attachment 585908
Anyone out there have a 440 air cleaner without the hole I can buy?
Jav, I have a freshly powder coated lid it you want it. Don’t have the stock cleaner anymore, went with a dual snorkel cop breather. The lids your if you want it..

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Say what?
They mark the cap with a number one near the locating tab/slot. Which puts it at 5-6 o'clock position. CCW rotation now 8 is at 4 o'clock has to wrap around to follow intake off the back of the head. 3 is not bad nearing the top of the cap and heading off to drivers side. 6 is a cross over needs to go around or over to go down front and low to spark plug. So all the terminals facing the head now have to turn to go toward drivers side. 2 works good. If you 180 the wires on the cap and rotor they lay out toward their respective side of the engine without having to all get in tiny real estate or cross over the top of the cap.
 
Busy weekend…

Sorted the last of the wiring except for the compressor… not happy with hoses. Also removed the window seals and replaced them with a better set. Slow charged the battery. Sorted the vacuum lines for the A/C and the fan kicked in on the next start but it must have a leaf (leaves) in the fan from the noise I hear.

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Great new battery charger at the shop. It actually started at 70%. Alternator was putting out all it could at 14 volts and the system would not stop charging and wouldn’t produce more than 12.2 volts at idle. After two days of intermittent charging and resting, all is now good.
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Pulling the old upper window seals. Actually took less than 30 min for both.
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New ones in but will need to adjust windows. O
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Need to adjust the windows in a touch.
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Some filling behind the seals will be required but first I think I will let them set in place a while.
 
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Busy weekend…

Sorted the last of the wiring except for the compressor… not happy with hoses. Also removed the window seals and replaced them with a better set. Slow charged the battery. Sorted the vacuum lines the the A/C and the fan kicked in on the next start but it must have a leaf (leaves) in the fan from the noise I hear.

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Do tell Jav.. where’d you get that window rubber? Easy to do? Thx
 
I originally found them and gave them to Bob when I made my Formal purge.
Stan, do we know any information on what happened with Bob’s cars? I was just curious. I know we had the New Yorker the Newport the truck The charger and the Redeye..
 
Back to the NYB of this thread….

Drove it this morning….. And transmission wouldn’t hold in third and started slipping all over the place. Reverse still worked fine but didn’t engage with the same authority.

Looks like the increase in power did it in.

Oh well… car has over 100k miles on it so even if it was changed once… at least I will know it will be as newly refurbished as the engine.

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Transmission ready to drop. The trans guy wants to check it in place before we drop and deliver it. He’s a friend. Done several for me and wants to just confirm it’s not an adjustment issue. He did the roadrunner’s 727 some years back and did an excellent job. He also did the tranny in a Mini I had a few years ago and it came out perfect. Man knows his transmissions!

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But judging from the amount of metal and band material in the bottom of the pan, I think it’s pretty well done.

As to the Sniper… working like a charm. Now I just need to be able to get the newfound power to the ground. And reliable cool air into the engine. Working on this last issue while I wait.

A/C hoses back out to be “adjusted” for better fit. (I’m such a pain in the ***).

More tomorrow.
 
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They mark the cap with a number one near the locating tab/slot. Which puts it at 5-6 o'clock position. CCW rotation now 8 is at 4 o'clock has to wrap around to follow intake off the back of the head. 3 is not bad nearing the top of the cap and heading off to drivers side. 6 is a cross over needs to go around or over to go down front and low to spark plug. So all the terminals facing the head now have to turn to go toward drivers side. 2 works good. If you 180 the wires on the cap and rotor they lay out toward their respective side of the engine without having to all get in tiny real estate or cross over the top of the cap.
This actually makes a lot of sense, I'm considering fixing this mistake as well.
 
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