Unless you are on a tight budget, stay with a stock radiator. For explorers use an aluminum radiator, that sets up a galvanic cell with the brass heater core which eventually destroys both.
Dave
Did I fry my engine?
- Thread starter 66Hardtop
- Start date
Unless you are on a tight budget, stay with a stock radiator. For explorers use an aluminum radiator, that sets up a galvanic cell with the brass heater core which eventually destroys both.
Dave
65Fury440
Senior Member
In your post you say that noise doesn't change with RPM? I would think it would have to.
Use a long screwdriver or piece of vacuum tubing as a stethoscope to narrow it down.
I have a good 22" radiator in FL for $100.
Use a long screwdriver or piece of vacuum tubing as a stethoscope to narrow it down.
I have a good 22" radiator in FL for $100.
I figured I would update everyone who helped out. I got a new aluminum radiator and put a new thermostat in. The car is running nice and cool now and the lifter tick has gone away. I'm gonna do an oil change and adjust the transmission bands since I don't know when they were last done. Any special tool needed besides an in/lb torque wrench? My 1-2 shift is soft and almost can't feel it if you aren't paying attention. It pulls great in all gears with no slipping though. Thanks.
The bands have square head adjuster so you will need an 8 or 12 point socket in the correct size. The FSM gives detailed instructions on the procedure for adjusting the bands. www.mymopar.com has most of the FSMs available for free download. You will find the FSMs in the tools/reference section. Be sure to drain the torque convertor and replace the transmission filter while you are at it.
Dave
Dave
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
You say the 1-2 shift is almost unnoticeable. . . I would suggest that you make sure the kick-down lever to the transmission is adjusted properly. It is easy to adjust, but you MUST follow the procedure in the FSM to do it properly. You should be able to feel the 1-2 shift.
78Brougham
"Chump"
Great point Rip. If you've fiddled with the carb or replaced it with another it's very easy to screw up the kick down linkage.
I'd try that before messing with the bands.
As Rip says adjustment is crucial or you can fizz your trans. It will shift all over the place. It's not that difficult just follow the FSM.
Kram Edyorloh
Member
You have to drop the trans pan to do the rear band, you dont have to worry messing around with an inch'pound torque wrench, crack the jam nut,.... I have an old Mini rear brake adjuster square pressed into an old 12 point socket,.... screw the adjuster as "hard" as you can onto the band with finger and thumb pressure,...that's about the correct reading...inch/pounds is nothing as regards torque, back the adjuster off the correct amount, usually about 1 1/5 turns IIRC. ....this varies depending if it has ever had a shift kit fitted
The rear band is 1 1/4 turns IIRC, I have the info somewhere for all the correct settings for each application if you need them.
If the k/d linkage is not adjusted properly it wont "up" the line pressure, eventually it will burn the band out
A manual valve body is a T/Fs best friend as it gets rid of the "nasty flare up" between 2/3 shifts on full throttle, however, you are selecting gears manually for life once one is fitted, my RR has had one in it for 28 years , I built the box in 1986 (and 40 others for folk once I had done it LOL) it has never had the pan off since I built it and the fluid still looks new.....because there is no flare up, the kickdown linkage ups the pressure to clamp the band faster, this is all preset in a manual valve body which is why the kickdown link becomes obsolete once fitted.
The rear band is 1 1/4 turns IIRC, I have the info somewhere for all the correct settings for each application if you need them.
If the k/d linkage is not adjusted properly it wont "up" the line pressure, eventually it will burn the band out
A manual valve body is a T/Fs best friend as it gets rid of the "nasty flare up" between 2/3 shifts on full throttle, however, you are selecting gears manually for life once one is fitted, my RR has had one in it for 28 years , I built the box in 1986 (and 40 others for folk once I had done it LOL) it has never had the pan off since I built it and the fluid still looks new.....because there is no flare up, the kickdown linkage ups the pressure to clamp the band faster, this is all preset in a manual valve body which is why the kickdown link becomes obsolete once fitted.
The carb hasn't been messed with since I've had the car. I will look at the kickdown though. It kicks down perfectly at the speeds it says in the book. If I'm heavy on the gas it shifts nice and firm. Its just on light throttle that it's barely noticeable. In normal driving when taking off from a stop this car never revs over 1500rpm so maybe that's it? I've gotten used to my 90 Bonneville which is FWD and lower geared so it revs higher between shifts. The Polara always stays around 1500rpm when it shifts driving normally.
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