Dont wanna burn up my car

[Big_John]

Sweet!!!
this could be the answer.
Maybe this vr with the 60 amp alternator and a voltmeter to play around with adjustment.
Man, thanks!!

That's a mechanical voltage regulator. Really nothing special except the adjustment is external. Basically a stock replacement for a car with an Essex regulator. If your car had the Chrysler built regulator, the adjustment requires you to remove the cover.

They work by the points opening and closing many times a minute, turning the alternator off and on. We've been telling you to upgrade away from these and to a regulator that does the work electronically and much more smoothly.

 

[3175375]

...We've been telling you to upgrade away from these and to a regulator that does the work electronically and much more smoothly.

While I agree that the solid state regulator is the solution, it only appears to be doing the job more smoothly. It still switches the alternator on and off, but does so at a very high rate - probably tens of thousands of times per second...

 

[Big_John]

While I agree that the solid state regulator is the solution, it only appears to be doing the job more smoothly. It still switches the alternator on and off, but does so at a very high rate - probably tens of thousands of times per second...

Yes, and I know that. I said that rather than trying to explain how the rate is faster. I probably should have done that, but we've established that I'm a dog.

 

[Big_John]

What are you thinking?
It would be great to switch to high idle at will...

Well, lot's of cars came with solenoids to change idle speeds. Switch on the A/C and the solenoid would energize and push against the throttle and bring the idle speed up. You'd have to find the right combo to do it, but I don't think it would be that hard.

 

[Rosco]

You know, I don't know how the adjustable voltage regulator works but since it says "reproduction" I assumed it was mechanical- maybe the newer solid state types are better. I like Saylor's advice to tweak the idle speed up a touch and possibly play around with pulley size on the new alternator.
I think in my situation trying to find an alternator that has good output at lower rpm will be a great place to start. Any suggestions on where to find quality alternators and good customer support?
I like the solenoid device and the police fast idle lock but I think after perusing our options it's probably best to go back to where your instincts took us originally- test the **** out of it, make repairs/adjustments, upgrade wire sizes where appropriate and see how it behaves.
It's great to know there are some viable solutions to pursue if needed. I think I'll have my work cut out for me this season...
You will most likely be hearing from me in a couple/few months. I'm sure I will be thrashing a bit!

 

[Rosco]

That's a mechanical voltage regulator. Really nothing special except the adjustment is external. Basically a stock replacement for a car with an Essex regulator. If your car had the Chrysler built regulator, the adjustment requires you to remove the cover.

I have read that you can manually adjust the voltage regulators (early mechanical type) but have no idea what this means? You adjust high-end output going to battery vs. factory setting? Could this lead to over-charging the battery?

 

[Rosco]

I read about the vr adjustment in the 'Master Service Tech.' reference book you linked me to and I will read up on reasons to adjust and outcome...

 

[Rosco]

A good, but inexpensive, Mexican Mopar resto going on in this thread. Some good reading.
Project "Chihuahua" '65 Formula S Restoration "Estilo Mexicano"

Hey Big John,
How do I get ahold of "Dibbons"?? I tried logging onto abodiesonly but guess I would need a new account (I assumed these abody, bbody, cbody forums are all connected)?
Amazing mopar enthusiast minutes from me down in Baja! Most Mexican auto-related shops kind of roll their eyes or do the confused dog head-pivot side to side when you mention the word "Plymouth"- there are not a lot of them in the whole state and mostly unsupported. I'd love to connect with this guy!
thanks.

 

[LocuMob]

Hey Big John,
How do I get ahold of "Dibbons"?? I tried logging onto abodiesonly but guess I would need a new account (I assumed these abody, bbody, cbody forums are all connected)?
Amazing mopar enthusiast minutes from me down in Baja! Most Mexican auto-related shops kind of roll their eyes or do the confused dog head-pivot side to side when you mention the word "Plymouth"- there are not a lot of them in the whole state and mostly unsupported. I'd love to connect with this guy!
thanks.

Yep, create an account over on FABO. Just like you did here. Then go message ribbons, and get your car working properly!

 

[Rosco]

Yep, create an account over on FABO. Just like you did here. Then go message ribbons, and get your car working properly!

Thanks amigo!!

 

[Big_John]

Dibbons is a nice guy. We had some messaging about some very hard to find manifold braces and he copied mine from my measurements. Seems to have a lot of contacts to get things done south of the border.

 

[Rosco]

Dibbons is a nice guy. We had some messaging about some very hard to find manifold braces and he copied mine from my measurements. Seems to have a lot of contacts to get things done south of the border.

I'm sure.
Thanks again for sending me his way. I've registered at abodiesonly and have reached out- at least I think I have Sent a "conversation" to him, I think...

 

[Rosco]

Dibbons is a nice guy. We had some messaging about some very hard to find manifold braces and he copied mine from my measurements. Seems to have a lot of contacts to get things done south of the border.

Made contact w/ Dibbons. Fricking amazing here Big John! We're like two submarines cruising w/in 1/2 mile of each other but not knowing it!!!
We've done a bit of back and forth, lots of crazy things in common.
Thanks for the hookup.

 

[Rosco]

I do suggest that you do the upgrade to an electronic voltage regulator, if that hasn't already happened. From what I've seen, the over the counter replacements may be electronics these days. @FURYGT sells a nice one that looks like the OEM or there's a #VR706 regulator made by Wells and sold by AutoZone (and probably everyone else) that does the trick, but looks a little different. Buy two, one spare for the trunk.

Hi Big John,
I've made contact w/ FuryGT re. his vr's. They look great! Great price too. I mentioned that I'm looking at installing a 60 amp alt. and he mentioned concerns about the wiring implying that they "may not" be adequate for the 60 amp unit. Although he assured me his vr would be fine at that. So, again, he didn't explicitly say you're gonna fry your car but brought up the ammeter bypass mod. as a consideration.
What are your thoughts on my stock wiring w/ the 60 amp model? I could/would upsize the charging wires along with the new alternator if needed but I like the 60 amp model (not Power Master-"TuffStuff") as they tell me it puts out "50% of charge at idle". I didn't press them for what they consider idle... I may call them back on that and they didn't have a curve graph to offer showing output vs. rpms.
Hey, when you mentioned a voltmeter that worked off the cigarette lighter, how does it work? Does it read volts from the power to the cigar. lighter or do you run wires up behind your dash? Stupid question, I know, I just don't know how the whole system works. Yet. Working on that

 

[3175375]

Hi Big John,
I've made contact w/ FuryGT re. his vr's. They look great! Great price too. I mentioned that I'm looking at installing a 60 amp alt. and he mentioned concerns about the wiring implying that they "may not" be adequate for the 60 amp unit. Although he assured me his vr would be fine at that. So, again, he didn't explicitly say you're gonna fry your car but brought up the ammeter bypass mod. as a consideration.
What are your thoughts on my stock wiring w/ the 60 amp model? I could/would upsize the charging wires along with the new alternator if needed but I like the 60 amp model (not Power Master-"TuffStuff") as they tell me it puts out "50% of charge at idle". I didn't press them for what they consider idle... I may call them back on that and they didn't have a curve graph to offer showing output vs. rpms.
Hey, when you mentioned a voltmeter that worked off the cigarette lighter, how does it work? Does it read volts from the power to the cigar. lighter or do you run wires up behind your dash? Stupid question, I know, I just don't know how the whole system works. Yet. Working on that

I have used Powermaster alternators and there is nothing special about them.
It’s good that you are checking into the details on their product. Continue doing that post what you heard. Regarding the loads and how it’s distributed I’ll try and put together a cartoon that shows what the system typically looks like. However, the specifics will be in your shop manual. Get one of those if you don’t have one.
I’ll try to post the cartoon response response to this message later today.

 

[3175375]

this is a quick cartoon of the functionality.
It is NOT gospel, but provides a high level of information so as to understand.
The purpose of the ammeter bypass is to reduce the heaviest electrical loads through it.
I likely have forgotten something and others will likely point that out. However, my aim is to get you understanding what is going on with the electrical system.
I hope that this helps.

 

[Big_John]

Hi Big John,
I've made contact w/ FuryGT re. his vr's. They look great! Great price too. I mentioned that I'm looking at installing a 60 amp alt. and he mentioned concerns about the wiring implying that they "may not" be adequate for the 60 amp unit. Although he assured me his vr would be fine at that. So, again, he didn't explicitly say you're gonna fry your car but brought up the ammeter bypass mod. as a consideration.
What are your thoughts on my stock wiring w/ the 60 amp model? I could/would upsize the charging wires along with the new alternator if needed but I like the 60 amp model (not Power Master-"TuffStuff") as they tell me it puts out "50% of charge at idle". I didn't press them for what they consider idle... I may call them back on that and they didn't have a curve graph to offer showing output vs. rpms.
Hey, when you mentioned a voltmeter that worked off the cigarette lighter, how does it work? Does it read volts from the power to the cigar. lighter or do you run wires up behind your dash? Stupid question, I know, I just don't know how the whole system works. Yet. Working on that

Last things first, the voltmeter just plugs into the cigar lighter. BYW, in a Mopar, it's a cigar lighter. One of those things that differentiate us from the others. LOL.

Here's one. https://smile.amazon.com/LIHAN-Char...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Regarding the wire size, as I said, there's some discussion if the existing wiring is robust enough for a larger output alternator. Again, it's all about how much amperage the system needs that will determine wire size, not necessarily the source, but upsizing the wiring is a fairly gargantuan task. So, the best answer goes back to the bypass... that you don't want to do...

 

[Big_John]

View attachment 429845
this is a quick cartoon of the functionality.
It is NOT gospel, but provides a high level of information so as to understand.
The purpose of the ammeter bypass is to reduce the heaviest electrical loads through it.
I likely have forgotten something and others will likely point that out. However, my aim is to get you understanding what is going on with the electrical system.
I hope that this helps.

Throw in where the fusible link is. That can help 'splain some stuff too.

 

[3175375]

Throw in where the fusible link is. That can help 'splain some stuff too.

I will.
It will be tomorrow though as I have other coloring assignments to complete today... ;^)

 

[saylor]

take that 60a ALT and get 2 50amp fuses and a piece of 10GA wire and run it from the ALT to the BATT with a fuse on each end.