General A727 Potential R&R questions/suggestions.

[Lefty71]

That is a slap on the nose for sure. Probably pretty tough to find a 361 block laying around. I dont know how cherry your whole car is, but there was a member with a complete and beautiful fresh 361 a little while ago. Im thinking he was selling it. Ill do a search.....may have been fbbo too....

Found it....you could PM the guy.

361-413 DA

So I just got a message from Facebook for the 361 engine I have for sale. Air cleaner clearly shows 361..desription says 361. This *** clown sends a message. Is this a 413, WTF. Hope this is not an indicator for the rest of the year. Dumb ***

www.forbbodiesonly.com

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

That is a slap on the nose for sure. Probably pretty tough to find a 361 block laying around. I dont know how cherry your whole car is, but there was a member with a complete and beautiful fresh 361 a little while ago. Im thinking he was selling it. Ill do a search.....may have been fbbo too....

Found it....you could PM the guy.

http://[URL][URL][URL]https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/361-413-da.283164/

[/URL][/URL][/URL]

Thank you for the tip off, I'll definitely strongly consider getting the engine from the gentleman.

The car is pretty clean, beauty is in the eye of the beholder... the engine burns a tad of oil (older photo) but the 361 was just enough of a motor to get me up and out of the way, and just enough power to potentially get me into trouble!
361's are damn fine engines.

I'll probably at a later date, patch the crack with the best of my ability then shelf it, then swap to another engine.

the last thing I need is the engine to completely fail then the car becomes a rolling body where it might be seen as a "parts car"

 

[3175375]

Thank you for the tip off, I'll definitely strongly consider getting the engine from the gentleman.

The car is pretty clean, beauty is in the eye of the beholder... the engine burns a tad of oil (older photo) but the 361 was just enough of a motor to get me up and out of the way, and just enough power to potentially get me into trouble!
361's are damn fine engines.

I'll probably at a later date, patch the crack with the best of my ability then shelf it, then swap to another engine.

the last thing I need is the engine to completely fail then the car becomes a rolling body where it might be seen as a "parts car"



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My cousin repaired a hole in the block of his wife’s Chrysler 300. My point is that you can repair it!

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

My cousin repaired a hole in the block of his wife’s Chrysler 300. My point is that you can repair it!

Very encouraging to hear the block can be repaired with a success story.
I've been looking around on various methods on repairing the block, from shadetree methods ranging from JB weld, all the way to pin/metal stitching. I think the company was named
"Lock-N-Stitch"

Just need to save up funds on gathering the tools to start repairing the block sooner or later.

 

[65CopCar]

pin/metal stitching. I think the company was named
"Lock-N-Stitch"

In general its the best way to repair cast iron. You can do it yourself. There are several vendors selling the kits.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

In general its the best way to repair cast iron. You can do it yourself. There are several vendors selling the kits.

Yes sir, I've been finding vids on block repair with the Lock-N-Stitch, seems like a very good repair from the looks of it!

 

[65CopCar]

Yes sir, I've been finding vids on block repair with the Lock-N-Stitch, seems like a very good repair from the looks of it!

In work, all of the heavy industrial cast iron repairs I have seen were Lock-N-Stitch technology and it was considered a permanent repair.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

In work, all of the heavy industrial cast iron repairs I have seen were Lock-N-Stitch technology and it was considered a permanent repair.

At this point, I'm sold on Lock-N-Stitch, figure if I can repair the block with the engine in place, while removing the steering components out of the way to gain more working access to the cracked area of the block.

I might have been a bit hasty in casting off the engine off so soon...

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

Ok, so aside from the block being cracked and needing to be pin stitched together.

I managed to get another Flexplate that substantially looks more beefier than the stock/silver aftermarket Flexplate.

It's SFI 29.1 rated for 3 years, let's be honest, not that I have any intention on replacing the flex plate after 3 years.

FYI: Just mocking the Flexplate into place, it will come back off when it gets bolted to the crankshaft first!

I was holding my breath on weather the Flexplate bolts holes were going to lineup with the crank bolt holes, no problem here!

 

[65CopCar]

Ok, so aside from the block being cracked and needing to be pin stitched together.

I managed to get another Flexplate that substantially looks more beefier than the stock/silver aftermarket Flexplate.

It's SFI 29.1 rated for 3 years, let's be honest, not that I have any intention on replacing the flex plate after 3 years.

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FYI: Just mocking the Flexplate into place, it will come back off when it gets bolted to the crankshaft first!

I was holding my breath on weather the Flexplate bolts holes were going to lineup with the crank bolt holes, no problem here!

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That looks great! Much better choice!

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

That looks great! Much better choice!

Agreed, I'm quite satisfied with the quality of the Flexplate, it's not bad for $72, + shipping & tax brings it up to around $98.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

So a few days passed, I have got the valve body rooster comb detent gear selector adjusted, the engine cranks only in Neutral/park. and doesn't crank in any gears.

I've confirmed and marked the offset Torque converter/Flexplate bolt holes ahead of time to ensure everything is all lined up when the transmission is tucked under the transmission tunnel.

Pictures:
The gear selection is in Neutral and the Rooster comb "finger" is centered on the neutral safety switch.

The transmission before seeing many more years of service.

The filter/valve body before putting the pan on

Transmission on the jack, ready to be installed.

The crack in the block... That's for another day to tackle that job/fix.

1 step forward, 2 steps backwards, just like clockwork.

 

[fury fan]

When you get it put back together, fill it with water and drive it around the neighborhood, get it warmed up, and see if that crack leaks, it might not leak all the time?

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

When you get it put back together, fill it with water and drive it around the neighborhood, get it warmed up, and see if that crack leaks, it might not leak all the time?

You know that's the thing, I only discovered the crack after I wiped some of the surface grease off of the block.

May have been cracked all this time when I was daily driving and I was non the wiser.

 

[fury fan]

Metals expand with heat. If it's 'one piece', it expands outward in all directions.
But with a split in it, it still expands outward. So the material on both sides of the crack seemingly would be expanding toward each other, to try to close it.
But the block is also expanding to become taller/longer.
So only reality will tell us.

I also wonder if you drilled a 1/32 hole at the end of the crack (to stop its progression) if there is some new space-age goo that could seal up the crack.
Somethign akin to driveway crack sealer but chemical-resistant and flexes with heat.
Might be a easier to attempt this than the lock-stitch, which will be time-consuming.

I have a 383 in the garage that has a similar crack. It was rebuilt prior to me getting it ~30 years ago. I'm starting to re-think that one!

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

Metals expand with heat. If it's 'one piece', it expands outward in all directions.
But with a split in it, it still expands outward. So the material on both sides of the crack seemingly would be expanding toward each other, to try to close it.
But the block is also expanding to become taller/longer.
So only reality will tell us.

I also wonder if you drilled a 1/32 hole at the end of the crack (to stop its progression) if there is some new space-age goo that could seal up the crack.
Somethign akin to driveway crack sealer but chemical-resistant and flexes with heat.
Might be a easier to attempt this than the lock-stitch, which will be time-consuming.

I have a 383 in the garage that has a similar crack. It was rebuilt prior to me getting it ~30 years ago. I'm starting to re-think that one!

I will admit whole heartedly, I was considering just stuffing the crack with JB weld of sorts and if that doesn't leak. So be it.

The Lock-N-Stitch is a good fix no doubt, I may consider that more strongly once other avenues fail at closing the crack/leak.

I've seen on the classified ads online and have found some 383's with a smaller similar crack like the one you spoke of, Chrysler big blocks can never escape the clutches of freeze crack! Unless drained properly, preventative maintainence and what not.

 

[65CopCar]

If you run it without fixing it, it will likely grow. You always drill holes at the ends of the crack to stop it from growing.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

If you run it without fixing it, it will likely grow. You always drill holes at the ends of the crack to stop it from growing.

Agreed, going to clean up the block a bit more as right now the crack looks like it has spread to the other core plug, albeit a hairline crack.

Drill holes, As in drill at the end of the crack as in drilling through to the other side of the water jacket?

Just asking for clarification.

 

[65CopCar]

Correct.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

Just a "minor" update, managed to get the final small adjustments on the Valve body/line pressure set.

FYI the block is still cracked and is seeping a small amount of water.
Got Interested if the trans shifted or not, block will be repaired for sure.

Anywho, 1 major thing, the transmission shifts through all the gears and goes into reverse.
So looks like I didn't botch anything up yet.

New issue: The transmission in reverse has a "notchy" like feel, the best I can think is the park pawl is slightly engaged stopping the car momentarily and continuing to move in reverse.

2nd issue: The transmission indeed does shift through all the gears, and no overlap.
(Overlap feels like a brakes being tapped)
But there is a noticable clunk or thunk Everytime the transmission up shifts at normal acceleration, almost sounds like the u-joint or rear differential gear is slamming on upshifts.

3rd issue: I wish I would have listened to some other folks better on Torque converter selection, but this is the outcome. My mistake on not listening.
Car is very doggy and lazy from a stop, I surmise the Torque converter is mismatched for the cam in the engine.

The engine RPM's scream at around 2200 RPM and the car is slowly but surely accelerating.
At around 15 MPH.

I believe I should not have gone for a 2000 stall TC, but something "tighter"? Like 1000 to 1200 stall torque converter.

Anywho, I should be glad that the transmission does something remotely of what a transmission should be doing, erm... Shifting?

Off to the next repair/change!
Different TC and inspecting the rear park lock pawl to re-adjust. And or Valve body Line pressure or orifice plug change.

The great saga of transmission shenanigans continues...