The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
I swapped in the correct two nipple check valve. I will be adding new hose to the booster soon.
I have a confession to make…
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The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
Continuing the diagnosis of the Auto Temp II, I have determined that the system is electrically 100% ok. I manually applied vacuum to the blower master switch and compressor master switch and everything started working.
I am trying to trace the vacuum circuits for the concern. Still diagnosing and repairing damage from the overlays.
I am trying to trace the vacuum circuits for the concern. Still diagnosing and repairing damage from the overlays.
The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
Cleaning up the dashboard after the previous owners paid a lot of money for half-assed work. The glove box liner was destroyed and ruined so I will replace that. The original speakers are long gone so now I need to make something work.
There were more Scotch-Locks, zip ties, self-tappers and extra wiring than a hardware store.
There were more Scotch-Locks, zip ties, self-tappers and extra wiring than a hardware store.
Following your progress on on the ATC2. Thank you for the pictures, I'll use them when I'm fixing mine
The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
I haven’t done much pictures on it. It’s just following the manual and understanding the description and operation of the system and following diagrams.
The manual is the base you need to understand and fix it. But in my case(and I figure in most of our cars) the system has been messed with. It's bypassed and I've just a switch that is off/highest fan speed on hottest temp. I think many systems have been messed with since the original design was prone to fail. Sharing your experiences and progress gives others a better understanding how to fix stuff that's not depicted in the manual
The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
I will be redoing my green 72 and brown 73 so there will be a lot more to come on the AutoTemp II topic. I have never dealt with this system before but I fix cars for a living so this is not too hard.
The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
The seller said the headlight doors were binding and needed adjustment…sure they do…
Some one was driving and hit something or the car was hit. Everything in front of the core support was damaged in one way or another, and of course a beautiful pit-free grille is bent.
Some one was driving and hit something or the car was hit. Everything in front of the core support was damaged in one way or another, and of course a beautiful pit-free grille is bent.
3175375
Senior Member
That’s not good. Do you think that you can repair it?
The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
That’s what I spent all day doing. Everything is fixed and working the way it should. The electronic eye however was damaged in the impact and I will be replacing it.
The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
I sacrificed the grille and bumper centers out of my other 72. Now I will either replace that one or get this grille fixed and use it on my other 72.
Before
After
Before
After
The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
The stupidity of people never stops amazing me. The moron who installed the overlay and toggle switch drilled out the mounting hole for the air duct screw that connects the heater box to the driver side spot cooler.
Maybe add a rivnut. Or a through bolt and nut arranement.
3175375
Senior Member
They walk, drive and vote among us!
The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
So the transmission in Penny was removed and totally rebuilt but for some reason the original rotten transmission mount was reused. I installed a PST poly trans mount and the car is much more responsive. Engine mounts are next as it still clunks into gear, although it is much less harsh. This is something I recommend to everyone.
The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
So I’m not letting the neighbor caused accident fiasco bring me down. I got the Carter AVS swapped off the car and got the Holley 4160 on. It seems to run much better actually. It has a roar to it with the secondaries opening that it never had with the Carter.
The fuel line was butchered to get the Carter adapted, the choke was swapped as well and the person who did all this reused the original 50 year old gasket which was dried out badly.
The fuel line was butchered to get the Carter adapted, the choke was swapped as well and the person who did all this reused the original 50 year old gasket which was dried out badly.
The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
Penny had been backed into by the neighbor across the street from me. I will link the thread for those who have not followed.
My neighbor ruined my plans
Tonight was a big night for Penny. I got her AutoTemp system fully operational! I swapped in a known good vacuum harness and all the modes and settings started working. I will vacuum down the system and check for leaks, if it passes I will add mineral oil and R12.
My neighbor ruined my plans
Tonight was a big night for Penny. I got her AutoTemp system fully operational! I swapped in a known good vacuum harness and all the modes and settings started working. I will vacuum down the system and check for leaks, if it passes I will add mineral oil and R12.
The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
I got the original radio in and working, but the speakers are still a mess. They have been butchered. I need a 4”x10”, 2 6”x9” and 2 of the small round ones.
Next is to replace the clock.
Next is to replace the clock.
Small ones should be 3.5" round.
If you take the back off of the clock mechanism, you might find a pair of contacts that look similar to automotive ignition points. Clean them and then hook the mechanism to a solid 12V power source. In earlier times, the "self-regulating" mechanism would "snap" every so often, to wind it. So let it sit there, powered, for a day or so to ensure it is all back up to snuff. You can also check the accuracy at this time, too. Advancing the time is supposed to make the clock run an increment faster, similar if retarding the setting. Not sure how large or small "an increment" might be. Perhaps you can find some YT videos on rebuilding such?
Keep up the good work!
CBODY67
If you take the back off of the clock mechanism, you might find a pair of contacts that look similar to automotive ignition points. Clean them and then hook the mechanism to a solid 12V power source. In earlier times, the "self-regulating" mechanism would "snap" every so often, to wind it. So let it sit there, powered, for a day or so to ensure it is all back up to snuff. You can also check the accuracy at this time, too. Advancing the time is supposed to make the clock run an increment faster, similar if retarding the setting. Not sure how large or small "an increment" might be. Perhaps you can find some YT videos on rebuilding such?
Keep up the good work!
CBODY67
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