I have a confession to make…

[commando1]

I got her AutoTemp system fully operational!

Next, you will show how to R&R a BB rear main seal and guarantee it will never leak again.

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

View attachment 665067

Next, you will show how to R&R a BB rear main seal and guarantee it will never leak again.

Funny you mention that…

 

[3175375]

Small ones should be 3.5" round.

If you take the back off of the clock mechanism, you might find a pair of contacts that look similar to automotive ignition points. Clean them and then hook the mechanism to a solid 12V power source. In earlier times, the "self-regulating" mechanism would "snap" every so often, to wind it. So let it sit there, powered, for a day or so to ensure it is all back up to snuff. You can also check the accuracy at this time, too. Advancing the time is supposed to make the clock run an increment faster, similar if retarding the setting. Not sure how large or small "an increment" might be. Perhaps you can find some YT videos on rebuilding such?

Keep up the good work!
CBODY67

If your clock isn’t restorable, purchase a quartz conversion kit.
If you look at my Elwood project posts, you will see what I did.

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

It’s a late night that may pay off with cold air conditioning!

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

Sadly the system does not hold a vacuum.

 

[3175375]

Sadly the system does not hold a vacuum.

Good news is that it works. I am sure that you can find the leak.

 

[carfreak6970]

Sadly the system does not hold a vacuum.

So, if you dont know this (it helped me on a 56 Packard, found it on youtube), is plumb in about 70 psi of shop air and listen for the leak. a lot cleaner and cheaper than using a dye.

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

So the original compressor was long since replaced. The new one that was previously installed leaks like a sieve. I guess that makes another compressor to rebuild…

 

[commando1]

guess that makes another compressor to rebuild

May I suggest buying a new Sanden compressor.

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

May I suggest buying a new Sanden compressor.

For what, they are ugly and don’t work as well.

 

[commando1]

For what, they are ugly and don’t work as well.

Don't work as well?

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

Don't work as well?

It’s easy to say that when it’s not your money to spend, right? You want me to put a Sanden compressor on there, your welcome to buy it for me.

 

[CBODY67]

Well . . . in addition to the 5-cyl Sandens which everybody seems to use, even in OEM, there are also 7-cyl Sandens that look similar to them AND have a displacement of just over 9CID. The GM A-6 is a 10CID compressor.

Consider that almost every newer car on the road is cooled with a 8CID compressor, with a massive condenser, and a much-better insulated cabin (as to temperature), which can also make it quieter.

Chrysler went to a Denso axial compressor in 1980, still with R-12, I believe. On my '80 Newport, it chunks ice cubes after a few minutes of running in TX July heat. After sitting on a parking lot, in the sun, all day. Works better than it should. Never know with it cycles, either.

Get the full Sanden kit. Sandens, individually, might be higher when purchased from an "a/c parts vendor that deals in "old cars", BUT can be less expensive when purchased from other places. Check out the thread from "TXDon" on converting his '66 Monaco wagon over to R-134a and a Sanden.

As great as the old RV-2 compressor was, it IS heavy and loads the motor more than a newer compressor that can cool just as well. The key is a smaller pulley on the new compressor, to spin it faster to compensate for the smaller CID number.

There are abot 15 "backs" for the Sandens, although almost everybody uses the "bug antenna" fittings. I never liked those fittings either, but there is also a "GM back" that has the piping coming in horizontally, too. Mist some satin black on the compressor/pulley and it can easily "hide".

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

It’s originality, it’s like a big aluminum radiator or Mickey Thompson valve covers. It just isn’t right on an Imperial.

 

[75LandYacht]

Don't work as well?

Be Nice Stan.. I know it’s hard. Lol

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

The car went on a 360 mile road trip on the weekend through Milwaukee. It was super close to overheating in the stop and go of the big city. I’m going to install a Flowkooler water pump in anticipation of Carlisle, and the Belvidere Happening. The rear brakes are also getting thin so new shoes are on the way.

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

The new master cylinder is in. Now I am getting the rear brakes done, axle shafts will get new wheel bearings on Monday. Then to reassemble and on to the next thing…

Reseal the trans pan I just resealed that is now leaking instead of seeping. Then radiator hoses and clamps next, exhaust again: I will not be using the Waldron parts as they are still wrong.

Cruise control quit working and I lost power to the A/C compressor. The fun never stops.

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

So the parts Waldron remade and hand delivered did not fix my concern. I compared it to the NOS muffler and NOS tailpipe and you can see theirs (left) is longer than the NOS Chrysler parts (right). Sadly they were informed of this and still remade the exhaust incorrectly.

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

I had to swap out the radiator and I swapped the cracked fan shroud while I was in there. This is probably partly why the car overheats in stop-and-go traffic. I will be recoring this radiator and reinstalling it eventually.

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

Sadly the axle retainers from Dr. Diff were not great. The driver side was machined incorrectly and one of the holes for the studs was machined like 1/32” of an inch off, and the axle retainer got wedged. Then when I went to go take it back off… one of the nuts I had started got galled and will not tighten or loosen…perfect. It looks like I will be working on the car into the 11th hour…

I still have to do the brake hoses, pitman arm, idler arm, bleed the brakes and secure a few random things under the hood.