New Member, New Polara

[Stev]

^^This^^

Do it right, and then just like it's done for adding rust treatments, drill some small holes from behind/underneath and spray in FF or Crown stuff.

Yeah that's what everyone's telling me.

Already using zinc weld through. I'll see if I can paint up to 1" surrounding the weld seam without burning up. Might fill this cavity with wax if it doesnt' weigh too much.

 

[Stev]

Got the tub fitting much better. Though strangely the top door jam to tub brace only partially lines up, and I'm not sure why. Though every other mating surface lines up exactly, and i drilled some pilot/screw holes to ensure it can go back in exactly where I want it.

Frankly I'm pretty confident I can get the lower quarter on to a high degree of accuracy now, i'm still thinking it's the way to go, for reasons of rust protection above all. I do not ever want to bust all this open again.


Though unfortunately it seems I welded the door jam in about 1/8" too far forward. You can see how tight the wheel arch flange is, and there's a gap between the surface that mates to the inside of the door jam, even though every other mating surface lines up exactly. Might've been welding warpage as this was before i got my cooler lincoln welder. Can't close the door to test panel gap either. Oops. Though I think I'll move the flange on the tub forward a little to compensate, I made it new as well, might've just messed up in fitting it. Easy fix.

Time for final prep and paint i think. Then I can get the floor in finally.

 

[Stev]

Tacked the quarter together with everything properly located. Tomorrow I'll drop the tub and do it all up final and then do the prep and paint for final install.

Feels like i've been about to install the tub for a while now, but it seems we're finally ready. Hopefully the floor just goes straight in, I don't see any heavy fabbing for that, outside of the LR sill panel and repairing the LH tub.

 

[Mr onetwo]

they call this "the light at the end of the tunnel"

 

[Stev]

they call this "the light at the end of the tunnel"View attachment 659685

Good thing too, I've decided on my next project.

I was talking with a buddy that did late model racing a while ago, and he showed me how cheap used late model circle track cars are. Incredibly fast machines with top dollar motors that can outcorner supercars on road courses, and used, these things go for less than ten grand all day.

And with my newfound confidence in hacking up sheet metal, well here's a 2 minute photoshop doodle

Find a junk Silver Shadow, gut everything, and drop it on a late model cage. With the price of Rolls spares, frankly the project would pay for itself. (Plus whatever spares I need for the stock one I have.)

Looking at my car, the door/window frames are super easy to modify, just simple U channels, no complicated box sections or curves. To chop it, shrink the A and C pillar along it's plane so you need only trim the bottom off the glass. Fill in the gaps on the roof with sheet metal. Easy.

Shave the bumpers, roll the pan down to complete the leading fender lines in one big swoop, continue the rad shell shape down for a giant air intake, get it sunk down on the chassis so the rockers are scraping the ground and the roof as low as the cage will allow. As long as I don't touch anything below the belt line, the doors will still function fine.

Slam it all together, title it as the Rolls, away we go!

I can already imagine rolling up to an english car meet in that alongside the bone stock one. Imagine the outrage.

I'm thinking of naming it either the Rolls Long Shadow or the Black Shadow.

 

[Dads300]

That race car is a “roller”, sans engine. I don’t know that a dirt late model would be ideal for building a street car, they have them set up pretty funky to get around a dirt track. I would lean toward a stock car or other pavement car, preferably something built for road course activities. Like the Roadkill nascarlo.
Travis..

 

[Stev]

That race car is a “roller”, sans engine. I don’t know that a dirt late model would be ideal for building a street car, they have them set up pretty funky to get around a dirt track. I would lean toward a stock car or other pavement car, preferably something built for road course activities. Like the Roadkill nascarlo.
Travis..

Yeah just the first result in canada.

Nascar Road racer for sale in Vernon, Bc, Price: $11,500

here's one more local. As funny as dailying a tripodding late model would be, I'd want the coupe cage anyway.

Ways off anyhow

 

[Stev]

Still plugging away at getting the tub ready for paint.

All the firm feel junk showed up finally. Super nice stuff, can't wait to slam it on.

 

[mopar preferred]

Good thing too, I've decided on my next project.

I was talking with a buddy that did late model racing a while ago, and he showed me how cheap used late model circle track cars are. Incredibly fast machines with top dollar motors that can outcorner supercars on road courses, and used, these things go for less than ten grand all day.

And with my newfound confidence in hacking up sheet metal, well here's a 2 minute photoshop doodle

View attachment 659781


Find a junk Silver Shadow, gut everything, and drop it on a late model cage. With the price of Rolls spares, frankly the project would pay for itself. (Plus whatever spares I need for the stock one I have.)

Looking at my car, the door/window frames are super easy to modify, just simple U channels, no complicated box sections or curves. To chop it, shrink the A and C pillar along it's plane so you need only trim the bottom off the glass. Fill in the gaps on the roof with sheet metal. Easy.

Shave the bumpers, roll the pan down to complete the leading fender lines in one big swoop, continue the rad shell shape down for a giant air intake, get it sunk down on the chassis so the rockers are scraping the ground and the roof as low as the cage will allow. As long as I don't touch anything below the belt line, the doors will still function fine.

Slam it all together, title it as the Rolls, away we go!

I can already imagine rolling up to an english car meet in that alongside the bone stock one. Imagine the outrage.

I'm thinking of naming it either the Rolls Long Shadow or the Black Shadow.

You are insane. And I mean that in a good way!

 

[Stev]

Does anyone have a wagon?

I'm still trying to figure out this weird angle iron mess under the tailgate and it isn't helped by the tailgate being stuck in place for now. I'm not sure if the drip panel welds to the top of the sill or sandwiches between the bottom of the sill and the top of the floor flange. If it's the former I can just deal with it later, the latter, I'm not sure.

Can someone take some photos of the underside and top of the tailgate sill for me? I didn't take sufficient ref of the donor.

 

[cuda hunter]

May I suggest starting a new thread titled that you are looking for pics of your specific car.
You might reach a few people that don't know this thread is happening.
Wish I could help.

Looking great!

 

[Stev]

May I suggest starting a new thread titled that you are looking for pics of your specific car.
You might reach a few people that don't know this thread is happening.
Wish I could help.

Looking great!

Went digging through the scrap pile and figured it out. The drip panel does indeed go above the floor and below the tailgate sill. It's also the inner face of the trunk pan, doing a 90 degree bend to tie that whole area into the floor. Someone cut it off at that bend and replaced it with angle iron on this car.

The donor's panel is rotted and twisted up but I can make a new one and patch it back in without too much difficulty.

And I just now realized it ties in in between the tail light fill panel and the body, which i just welded in.

Oh boy.

 

[3175375]

Went digging through the scrap pile and figured it out. The drip panel does indeed go above the floor and below the tailgate sill. It's also the inner face of the trunk pan, doing a 90 degree bend to tie that whole area into the floor. Someone cut it off at that bend and replaced it with angle iron on this car.

The donor's panel is rotted and twisted up but I can make a new one and patch it back in without too much difficulty.

And I just now realized it ties in in between the tail light fill panel and the body, which i just welded in.

Oh boy.

You’re figuring it out! Good sleuthing! We’re continuing to watch with encouragement!

 

[Stev]

Man paint goes quick. Every pass on the quarter panel was a whole can basically.

Hit it with 2 coats of zinc primer, all the weld seams with another 2 coats of zinc spray, and then two coats of regular primer with the seams taped over.

Couple coats of silver tomorrow, then truck bedliner to seal it up.

Then, onto the tub.

 

[Stev]

Not C body related but here's some more parts ****.

The last of my rebuild stuff for my 35 DeSoto Airflow finally came in. I've been tracking down this stuff for 2 years now. This is most likely the last set of .010 mains and rods for a 34-35 Chrysler 6.

When you first saw the ring, were you blinded by it's majesty?


...as if one unicorn mopar just wasn't enough for me.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Wow!! Very cool!

 

[3175375]

Not C body related but here's some more parts ****.

View attachment 662144

View attachment 662145

View attachment 662146
View attachment 662147

The last of my rebuild stuff for my 35 DeSoto Airflow finally came in. I've been tracking down this stuff for 2 years now. This is most likely the last set of .010 mains and rods for a 34-35 Chrysler 6.

When you first saw the ring, were you blinded by it's majesty?


...as if one unicorn mopar just wasn't enough for me.

Maybe it’s the Arkenstone? ;^)

 

[Stev]

Gettin' there.

 

[Stev]

More tub progress. Been rained out the last few days, next week is looking like rain too. Hopefully I can finish rattlecaning this thing before the rains start.

During monsoon season 2, I'm thinking I'll start fabbing the new footwell. I figure the best way to do it is pie cuts on a strip of metal already bent to the correct radius. I can also start blasting apart the LR corner too, as I need to fab most of it before the new floor goes in.

Not sure if i want to hit the spare wheel zone with the bedliner or not. Factory correct would be the silver, but grandpa had it painted black when the bodywork was done. Not sure.

 

[Mr onetwo]

Stev is doing such good work. If this sort of thing is your definition of **** (like it is for me) ... then may I make a suggestion. The Garage Journal has a member who is a professional bodyman.He has a shop in Maryland with a thread that is 11 years old with over 4400 posts filled with this stuff, but on another level all together. Not the stupid stuff on TV...real nuts and bolts stuff. Free to join and well worth it. Admins...if this is an inappropriate post then do what you will.I just thought it is connected very well to this thread. He also has an unbelievable YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/@mccartneypaintandcustom9602