New Member, New Polara

[Stev]

Going full show car and painted the new brake lines.

So when I had the car on the rod run, I blocked off the rear brake line on the block and sent it. But the brakes were almost completely gone, it barely stopped if i stood on it with both feet. And it felt plugged, like stepping on a rock.

The old master moved fluid liberally, the brake booster appears to be fine, and I inspected/blew out all the old lines. I could not find a blockage and my primary theory of the distribution block plug occluding the front lines was not true. I don't think it could be the wheel cylinders, if one was stuck the other would still work and it'd just pull to one side. And it stopped really well the day before I jerry rigged it back together.

I have no idea what the problem was.

New master, replaced the old lines, the distribution block is fine and not available new so I re-used that. I do have new wheel cylinders from 2020's adventure, so worst case I can replace those. So help me if the problem remains.

 

[67_300_Convertible]

After all this work, I hope you win every show you enter, the car runs in the 10's in the quarter mile, and you get 40 mpg. You deserve it.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

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Going full show car and painted the new brake lines.

So when I had the car on the rod run, I blocked off the rear brake line on the block and sent it. But the brakes were almost completely gone, it barely stopped if i stood on it with both feet. And it felt plugged, like stepping on a rock.

The old master moved fluid liberally, the brake booster appears to be fine, and I inspected/blew out all the old lines. I could not find a blockage and my primary theory of the distribution block plug occluding the front lines was not true. I don't think it could be the wheel cylinders, if one was stuck the other would still work and it'd just pull to one side. And it stopped really well the day before I jerry rigged it back together.

I have no idea what the problem was.

New master, replaced the old lines, the distribution block is fine and not available new so I re-used that. I do have new wheel cylinders from 2020's adventure, so worst case I can replace those. So help me if the problem remains.

Bad flex lines? Looks good, but collapsed internally?

 

[MoPar~Man]

I don't get painting brake lines. If you used the copper-nickel lines, they look great as is, don't need painting. If you used steel, why? PITA to work with.

 

[Stev]

Oops, all bondo!

There's a huge gap between the angle iron and body that's filled with nothing but bondo. I think the back of the floor/frame was literally held up by bondo this whole time. No wonder it's so bent up.

I do have the proper panel from the fury in blue, easy to fix. The rest is easy to fab. Thought I was out of the bodywork hell zone but i guess not.

 

[3175375]

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Oops, all bondo!

There's a huge gap between the angle iron and body that's filled with nothing but bondo. I think the back of the floor/frame was literally held up by bondo this whole time. No wonder it's so bent up.

I do have the proper panel from the fury in blue, easy to fix. The rest is easy to fab. Thought I was out of the bodywork hell zone but i guess not.

Yay! You got the tailgate open!

 

[Stev]

Yay! You got the tailgate open!

Yeah just bopped it open with a deadblow hammer, came open real easy. Way less force than just me pulling on it, shock really does help.

 

[Stev]

Can anyone with a wagon take photos of the drip rail panel for me? I don't have the full stamping and I'm not sure how it should be in the far corners.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I can, but I'm not quite sure where you mean.

 

[3175375]

I can, but I'm not quite sure where you mean.

I marked up the picture of how I understand his request.

I think the bottom of the area is the angle iron and bondo is copiously applied above to fill in the gap.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I assume this is the tailgate opening, based on the recent posts?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

 

[Stev]

View attachment 688880

Yeah that's very helpful, thanks. Splash panel goes on top, and ends where the weather stripping ends. I thought I may have been missing a part that goes into the hinge pocket but no.

Any idea how thick the metal is below the fill panel? It's 3/16" angle iron here, but I refuse to believe it was 20 gauge sheet metal from the factory, as it supports the back of the floor/frame without any boxing/gussets

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I have no idea.

 

[Stev]

Bad flex lines? Looks good, but collapsed internally?

That's all that was left. But I never touched them, they would've had to spontaneously collapsed within the space of a week, and they would've both had to have gone at the exact same time. If one was gone the other side would've worked fine.

I have replaced everything but the wheel cylinders so we'll see how it is shortly. Got some spare cylinders as well from 2020 but i'd like to avoid using new junk parts if at all possible.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Well, if they've sat for years, and then been asked to do the same job under nearly identical conditions, there is nothing saying they couldn't/wouldn't fail at the same time. It's worth investigating.

 

[Stev]

Well, if they've sat for years, and then been asked to do the same job under nearly identical conditions, there is nothing saying they couldn't/wouldn't fail at the same time. It's worth investigating.

They went in the garbage about a month ago so we'll never know.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Ahhh... and the no brake application issue you described came AFTER you'd put new flex hoses on?

 

[Stev]

Ahhh... and the no brake application issue you described came AFTER you'd put new flex hoses on?

No I didn't touch them before the rod run, no time. Put nice new ones on with the nice new stub. Stopped extremely well when i turned the car around to deal with some stuff up front, but a week later during the rod run brakes were junk. The only thing I changed was to plug up the rear brake line, as that line had ruptured. I thought the plug had also plugged up the front passage in the distribution block, but looking at it now, that isn't the case.

No idea.

Speaking of, got the brakes all buttoned up. Came out alright.

Hopefully this clears the wheel wells. It'll never see wet again, so I was actually planning on running without the inner fenders, both for weight and to vent the header heat out better, so it's not a world ender if it doesn't. But it'd be nice to go back to stock if i wanted to.

Though I do have a question about this master, it's a '67 Polara drum master, and I noticed when bleeding it, it pushed more fluid through the second hole in the resivioure vs the line itself. Is that normal? Didn't seem to be moving very much actual fluid.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Curious.