New Member, New Polara

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The fun never ends. Made the rear fascia panel. Now that the rear tang is freed i'll locate it correctly by lining up the drilled out welds, then trim the fascia to suit. Everything is nice and level so far.
 
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So after much measuring, getting the rear sill exactly level only moved the left side up by about 1/8", leaving much of the original weld holes exposed. Since I had to fab about half of the tub from scratch, it appears I mounted it slightly high.


Not ideal but little I can do about it now.
 
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Does anyone have a primary reference or hard evidence for the stall speed for the 11" converter?

Because I don't feel like having Mr. Drum come through the floor, I took the tranny in to the local guy to go to. Primarily for a bolt in sprag, but what the hell rebuilt it while you're in there. Really cool guy and we got along, and he informed me that my torque converter has too low a stall for my intent. He of course has the 10.75" street hemi converter to sell me.

It's my understanding that the 11" unit has a factory stall speed of 2400, the 10" converter was rated at 2600. With my expected power level (480-490 horsepower, 500+ torque), i'd expect the larger converter to stall closer to the 2600 that comp reccomends for my cam.

However, buddy says the 11" should stall under 2000 rpm on a stock motor, which sounds way too low to me and does not match my experience with the car at all. And thus I ought to put in the smaller unit instead.

Was hoping for some reliable numbers to verify what these units would actually be expected to do. Nothing in the shop manual and I can't find any factory information about either converter.

Thanks.
 
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I'm not sure how accurate this is, but the 383-2 numbers are in line with my '66 Polara before I swapped converters.
 
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I'm not sure how accurate this is, but the 383-2 numbers are in line with my '66 Polara before I swapped converters.

That's interesting. All are way higher than what dude said the 11" would stall, he said 1200-1800, which is wildly low for a 60's unit. Useful information, but is there no factory spec for a production car available?

I have the 4 barrel 383, meaning i should have the 10", which along with the LSD/towing package is why i thought I did. But I have the big boy instead. It also took half throttle to go anywhere, wonder if the pump was just tired in the tranny.

Comp reccomends 2500 stall on the 230/236 cam. Question is, with my power level, would that 2200-2300 stall rise to the appropriate value? Or should I just bite the bullet and pay for the 10" guy.

I am at least trying to keep milage in the double digits here. Or at least pretending.
 
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That's interesting. All are way higher than what dude said the 11" would stall, he said 1200-1800, which is wildly low for a 60's unit. Useful information, but is there no factory spec for a production car available?

I have the 4 barrel 383, meaning i should have the 10", which along with the LSD/towing package is why i thought I did. But I have the big boy instead. It also took half throttle to go anywhere, wonder if the pump was just tired in the tranny.

Comp reccomends 2500 stall on the 230/236 cam. Question is, with my power level, would that 2200-2300 stall rise to the appropriate value? Or should I just bite the bullet and pay for the 10" guy.

I am at least trying to keep milage in the double digits here. Or at least pretending.
I think a heavier car making more torque than power would stall at a higher speed.
 
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Still doing the 8 zillion plug welds to button up the rear.

I did measure and find I can run at least a 12" wide tire safely in the rear. Up to 14" if i go with a fourlink and ditch the leaf springs.


Trying to figure out the best compromise on the wheel/tire ratio too. I know i want a smooth steelie look, wide as i can get. But I want to make it fast at the drags, because that's all the action we have around here. But I also want it to handle as well as it can, so i need a tire that'll ball up at the drags but still be pretty ok and not deflect in corners, like the 60's trans am cars. I'm thinking 16" wheels with Gurney Cuda proportioned cheater slicks. Not sure though.

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This guy gets it.
 
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View attachment 693547View attachment 693545

Still doing the 8 zillion plug welds to button up the rear.

I did measure and find I can run at least a 12" wide tire safely in the rear. Up to 14" if i go with a fourlink and ditch the leaf springs.

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Trying to figure out the best compromise on the wheel/tire ratio too. I know i want a smooth steelie look, wide as i can get. But I want to make it fast at the drags, because that's all the action we have around here. But I also want it to handle as well as it can, so i need a tire that'll ball up at the drags but still be pretty ok and not deflect in corners, like the 60's trans am cars. I'm thinking 16" wheels with Gurney Cuda proportioned cheater slicks. Not sure though.

View attachment 693546

This guy gets it.
I have a set of Kumho Victorracer V700s mounted on 15” x 7” Pantera (magnesium) wheels for track events in my 65 Mustang and they are street legal and very sticky, inexpensive and perform extremely well.

The Pantera wheels knocked 10 pounds off in unsprung weight on each wheel over stamped steel wheels…

https://www.racingtireguide.com/kumho-victoracer-v700.html
 
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In like flynn.

Had a lot of other stuff to do first. Turns out the left tub is mounted too high, and you can see where the little filler trim piece goes on the back won't be level. But it is way too late to fix that, it's tied in thirty ways to sunday. Oops.
 
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