Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
At least you finally get to see the snake that bit you.
New Member, New Polara
- Thread starter Stev
- Start date
At least you finally get to see the snake that bit you.
Stev
Active Member
The fun never ends. Made the rear fascia panel. Now that the rear tang is freed i'll locate it correctly by lining up the drilled out welds, then trim the fascia to suit. Everything is nice and level so far.
Stev
Active Member
Much better. Came up about 1/2" total. Cleaner fit than when it came apart, frankly.
3175375
Senior Member
You are heading towards the home stretch now!
Stev
Active Member
So after much measuring, getting the rear sill exactly level only moved the left side up by about 1/8", leaving much of the original weld holes exposed. Since I had to fab about half of the tub from scratch, it appears I mounted it slightly high.
Not ideal but little I can do about it now.
Stev
Active Member
Does anyone have a primary reference or hard evidence for the stall speed for the 11" converter?
Because I don't feel like having Mr. Drum come through the floor, I took the tranny in to the local guy to go to. Primarily for a bolt in sprag, but what the hell rebuilt it while you're in there. Really cool guy and we got along, and he informed me that my torque converter has too low a stall for my intent. He of course has the 10.75" street hemi converter to sell me.
It's my understanding that the 11" unit has a factory stall speed of 2400, the 10" converter was rated at 2600. With my expected power level (480-490 horsepower, 500+ torque), i'd expect the larger converter to stall closer to the 2600 that comp reccomends for my cam.
However, buddy says the 11" should stall under 2000 rpm on a stock motor, which sounds way too low to me and does not match my experience with the car at all. And thus I ought to put in the smaller unit instead.
Was hoping for some reliable numbers to verify what these units would actually be expected to do. Nothing in the shop manual and I can't find any factory information about either converter.
Thanks.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
I'm not sure how accurate this is, but the 383-2 numbers are in line with my '66 Polara before I swapped converters.
Stev
Active Member
That's interesting. All are way higher than what dude said the 11" would stall, he said 1200-1800, which is wildly low for a 60's unit. Useful information, but is there no factory spec for a production car available?
I have the 4 barrel 383, meaning i should have the 10", which along with the LSD/towing package is why i thought I did. But I have the big boy instead. It also took half throttle to go anywhere, wonder if the pump was just tired in the tranny.
Comp reccomends 2500 stall on the 230/236 cam. Question is, with my power level, would that 2200-2300 stall rise to the appropriate value? Or should I just bite the bullet and pay for the 10" guy.
I am at least trying to keep milage in the double digits here. Or at least pretending.
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71Polara383
Kid with ballcap
I think a heavier car making more torque than power would stall at a higher speed.
Stev
Active Member
Still doing the 8 zillion plug welds to button up the rear.
I did measure and find I can run at least a 12" wide tire safely in the rear. Up to 14" if i go with a fourlink and ditch the leaf springs.
U.S. Wheel 512 Series Smoothie Gloss White Wheels | Summit Racing
U.S. Wheel 512 Series Smoothie gloss white wheels are available in multiple widths, diameters, bolt patterns, and other fitment options. These beautiful 2-piece retro-look rims are built from steel with a durable gloss white powdercoat finish.
Trying to figure out the best compromise on the wheel/tire ratio too. I know i want a smooth steelie look, wide as i can get. But I want to make it fast at the drags, because that's all the action we have around here. But I also want it to handle as well as it can, so i need a tire that'll ball up at the drags but still be pretty ok and not deflect in corners, like the 60's trans am cars. I'm thinking 16" wheels with Gurney Cuda proportioned cheater slicks. Not sure though.
This guy gets it.
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3175375
Senior Member
I have a set of Kumho Victorracer V700s mounted on 15” x 7” Pantera (magnesium) wheels for track events in my 65 Mustang and they are street legal and very sticky, inexpensive and perform extremely well.
The Pantera wheels knocked 10 pounds off in unsprung weight on each wheel over stamped steel wheels…
https://www.racingtireguide.com/kumho-victoracer-v700.html
Stev
Active Member
In like flynn.
Had a lot of other stuff to do first. Turns out the left tub is mounted too high, and you can see where the little filler trim piece goes on the back won't be level. But it is way too late to fix that, it's tied in thirty ways to sunday. Oops.
3175375
Senior Member
Doing great!
Stev
Active Member
Could you do me a favor and measure the depth from the rear edge of the drip rail to the bottom corner of the vertical panel with the oval plugs in it? I need to locate the new panel fore/aft and the original was obviously unusable for reference.
And looking at your images, I just now realized the stock drip panel is in fact the same panel as the vertical oval panel. And that the factory one had indents that notch into some female notches in the floor pan. Oops.
Hmm. Kind of comitted now.
Sorry for being dense, but can you be more specific about the measurement you're wanting? Perhaps take a picture that's more focussed in on the area, and perhaps a pointer in the picture?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Stev
Active Member
My bad. I have the original stamping but need to locate it fore and aft so the tailgate seal will contact the tailgate correctly. The two reference points being the bottom corner of the square panel to the tip of the flange where the seal sits (A) and if we're feeling bold, the vertical offset between that flat plane at the top and the plane the seal glues to (B)
Kinda humming and hawing over if i should weld the original panel on top of the replacement, which looks correct but raises it slightly. Or cut off the mating surface and weld the rest to the new panel.
The top part is in rough enough shape that i'm favouring the former, even if it doesn't look as correct.
OK - I'll see what I can do.
Cheers!
Cheers!
MEASUREMENT A = 3.5"
MEASUREMENT B = 2 & 1/8th inches.
MEASUREMENT B = 2 & 1/8th inches.
Stev
Active Member
Excellent, thank you very much. B was supposed to be the vertical offset but I kinda know that it's just the depth of the divots plus material.
Also bought a new toy. All my carbs are 600cfm for the truck. Big block needs a big boy so I sprung for an 800cfm AVS2, no more craigslist junk for me. Those annular boosters should pay for themselves in improved milage anyhow.
Now for it to angrily wait in a box for six months while i build the motor.
Woops - sorry, misread the diagram.
If you really need an accurate measure, let me know, and I'll get it for you tomorrow morning.
Nice carbs (said the bishop to the actress).
If you really need an accurate measure, let me know, and I'll get it for you tomorrow morning.
Nice carbs (said the bishop to the actress).
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