commando1
Old Man with a Hat
My gawd, I never knew the 78's had a plumbing disaster that bad. Wow.
New to me 78 NYB on its way but please Don't tell my wife
- Thread starter 73 T&C
- Start date
A smoke machine would be nice about now... It's much easier to see the smoke and how many vacuum leaks than it is to try to pinpoint them with propane, or whatever you prefer.
I use carb cleaner... in tiny squirts. But a smoke machine is scheduled for Saturday
It does help and makes perfect sense as well. Thanks Jeff. Starting with the simplest first. But this looks like it will reveal the issu for what it is. But I had to sort the carb first and check for any hidden vacuum leaks. That’s next.
You’re right, by putting it on the scope, it may reveal the problem cylinder and save me some time in focusing the leak down and dynamic compression test. Only one problem with a running compression test... the frigging manifolds become lava hot in about 10 minutes.
Meantime, I’ll keep driving it and record any parallel symptoms that go with the issue of the idle degrading. And .... keep banging on that.
IE... Just changed the hose to the cruise control on a whim. I pulled it and sucked on one end while covering the other end with my finger. It was leaking slightly. No big deal and probably wouldn’t show in a smoke test.
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Cruise control....
Checking the car in the expressway after the last repairs to the TQ, I tried to engage the cruise. It didn’t engage. But I didn’t hit the brakes and let it coast down as I was coming to an exit.
I had set the cruise at 70. When it had coasted down to 55, the car started accelerating on its own and scared the **** out of me for a moment.
I gave it a little help and it held at 60 before I had to tap the brakes.
I just changed the hose from the booster to the cruise control unit today and we’ll see where that goes. But there’s hope for this unit.
That’s the last non working machine on this car.
Checking the car in the expressway after the last repairs to the TQ, I tried to engage the cruise. It didn’t engage. But I didn’t hit the brakes and let it coast down as I was coming to an exit.
I had set the cruise at 70. When it had coasted down to 55, the car started accelerating on its own and scared the **** out of me for a moment.
I gave it a little help and it held at 60 before I had to tap the brakes.
I just changed the hose from the booster to the cruise control unit today and we’ll see where that goes. But there’s hope for this unit.
That’s the last non working machine on this car.
Worried it had become a Toyota... or an Audi 5000???
Lol.... more like possessed by the PO who was pissed I was f’ing with his car!
No start issue today.
Drove to the lab for my blood work early in the morning. 2 miles
Drove home to shower and change for work. 2 miles
Drove to work. 10 miles.
Went to go to a meeting about an hour later.... no start
Had my electrical probe in the trunk so I proceeded to check the coil, ballast and ignition relay. Found power in all. Engine spun fine but I was alone so I’m couldn’t get someone to hit the start while I checked for spark. It started and ran perfectly for 3 seconds and stopped
Went to meeting
Came back after lunch.
In meetings until 6:00
Went outside knowing it would start. It started perfectly...
Need to get it to do it again...... in the shop.
This is a simple problem. Should be easy. Getting a few parts to have on hand in the meantime. Ignition switch, relay and ballast to start.
Drove to the lab for my blood work early in the morning. 2 miles
Drove home to shower and change for work. 2 miles
Drove to work. 10 miles.
Went to go to a meeting about an hour later.... no start
Had my electrical probe in the trunk so I proceeded to check the coil, ballast and ignition relay. Found power in all. Engine spun fine but I was alone so I’m couldn’t get someone to hit the start while I checked for spark. It started and ran perfectly for 3 seconds and stopped
Went to meeting
Came back after lunch.
In meetings until 6:00
Went outside knowing it would start. It started perfectly...
Need to get it to do it again...... in the shop.
This is a simple problem. Should be easy. Getting a few parts to have on hand in the meantime. Ignition switch, relay and ballast to start.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Halt. Put away the DMM fefore you have half the car torn apart,
I already know the problem.
I already know the problem.
Thanks Stan....
Describe it please....what is the repair?
The P.O. had that connection with an external wire tie that I took off just before the problem started... I guess I’m the cause this time.
But I don’t understand why that big connector would fail due to engine heat.
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Just a bad connection due to age. Clean it up and make sure the connection stays tight.
Don't overthink it, Jav...
Went with a friend to check out an NYB as a parts car in Lehigh Acres. The kid gave up after 3 months trying to figure out why it wouldn't start and let it go for 750. After the money was exchanged, I jiggled the connector, started the car, and drove it onto the trailer....
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Ran out of smoke juice so that got postponed. Also, had to work on some home projects and work projects at home.
But.... did a few minor things to keep moving the ball forward.
Also, fiddled with the cruise control. It still engages slowly.... but it engages and that’s the point. Set at 60 held 57 but not reacting well to hills..... still banging on it.
But.... did a few minor things to keep moving the ball forward.
Also, fiddled with the cruise control. It still engages slowly.... but it engages and that’s the point. Set at 60 held 57 but not reacting well to hills..... still banging on it.
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Going to need me one of these....
It’s the light socket for the drivers side turning lamp. The light was full of water stains when I cleaned it up. The socket was barely hanging in there with all the rust.
Anyone out there have a spare they would part with???
Stan?
Jeff?
It’s the light socket for the drivers side turning lamp. The light was full of water stains when I cleaned it up. The socket was barely hanging in there with all the rust.
Anyone out there have a spare they would part with???
Stan?
Jeff?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I actually found NORS ones. Please don't ask me where. It was the most obscure website on Earth and it was several years ago. I haven't had my coffee so let me wake up first.
EDIT; I wasn't awake. The NORS ones were for the cornering lamps, not the parking lights.
Back to you, Jeff...
(I gave Jeff a box of misc. sockets. Bet he can't find them now.
)
I actually found NORS ones. Please don't ask me where. It was the most obscure website on Earth and it was several years ago. I haven't had my coffee so let me wake up first.
EDIT; I wasn't awake. The NORS ones were for the cornering lamps, not the parking lights.
Back to you, Jeff...
(I gave Jeff a box of misc. sockets. Bet he can't find them now.
Cornering lamps sockets are what I’m looking for.
Did it again today.
One of the few thing I did yesterday, besides installing the new reaview mirror, was to studiously clean and confirm a good connection at the battery main lead to the starter.
Car ran perfectly all morning..... Went to visit my monster in law at the home with my nubile young bride; and when we got out....no start.
This time I had my multi meter, spare good spark advance computer with me in the trunk and my patient wife.
Checked for spark and found.....
No spark. Good connection at the battery main connector Stan pointed out and power to coil, ballast and Spark Advance Computer.
Sent wife to go do a bit of shopping down the street at whole paycheck.... ouch.
Was parked in the shade on the street, so I could work in peace.
Funny thing... everyone wanted to help that came by and I even got one of them to hit the ignition for me on one of my attempts and to confirm no spark....
Everything was coming up aces until I checked the pickup coil. No continuity and no measurable resistance. Aha!
Then the strangest thing happened, while checking continuity from the disconnected pickup coil lead to the spark advance computer, I had left the leads measuring resistance to the pick up on. When I got back to the multimeter... maybe 10 minutes ....I had resistance of 300 ohm at the pickup (well within spec of 150 to 950 ohms)
Plugged the pickup lead back in and she fired on the first cylinder to hit instantaneously.
Drove her home and turned off the engine. Attempted restart .... and all was fine. One hour later (after heat-soak while using another car to go order a new pickup coil.).....no start again.
When it gets here on Monday night, I may need to have one of you guys walk me through removal of the reluctor.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
So how do you take off the reluctor Mr smarty pants?OK, I was wrong.
But that connector needed to be cleaned, anyway.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I can't tell from the pic.
Is that the metal 3-lobe gozinta or the the plastic 2-lobe?
Is that the metal 3-lobe gozinta or the the plastic 2-lobe?
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