New to me 78 NYB on its way but please Don't tell my wife

[Ripinator]

That part of it looks right. It’s the rubber hose in between that looks wrong.

The carburetor feeds from underneath at the center rear. It’s a rubber hose connection. Then the hose goes to a steel line to make a 90 degree turn to the front. From there it goes back to rubber before meeting the steel line coming up between the alternator and the block from the fuel pump.

My other mopars have it all steel.

On my '66 440, there is a break in the line from the fuel pump to the carburetor where an in-line fuel filter is installed. A short piece of rubber line connects the lower steel line from the pump to the filter, and another short piece of rubber line connects the filter to the steel line that goes the rest of the way to the carburetor. Maybe that is the extra setup you found with your car. . .

 

[commando1]

On my '66 440, there is a break in the line from the fuel pump to the carburetor where an in-line fuel filter is installed. A short piece of rubber line connects the lower steel line from the pump to the filter, and another short piece of rubber line connects the filter to the steel line that goes the rest of the way to the carburetor. Maybe that is the extra setup you found with your car. . .

Rip is correct

 

[Ripinator]

Rip is correct

View attachment 196770

Thanks, Stan. I forgot to mention that if you buy a Gold Line filter from NAPA, it comes with the short rubber hoses and the OEM-style clamps.

 

[commando1]

AND.... when Javier finally drop kicks the TQ into the nearest lake, it lines right up with the Edelbrock fuel line inlet...

 

[78Brougham]

finally drop kicks the TQ into the nearest lake

 

[73 T&C]

The correct line.

Right Stuff Detailing Fuel Pump to Carburetor Lines RPC6810

Just ordered.... been busy.

 

[73 T&C]

Two week report:

She’s running better every day.... but not perfect... yet.

When they say “ Lean Burn” they mean lean. ... and exactly balanced.

As I close in on both, she is running better and better. Drivability in transition from cold idle to fully warmed up is getting better as I close in on the proper setting. FSM not very helpful without NLA testing equipment. So it’s a little twist here and then there as I very slowly lean out the idle and open the throttle idle setting. Good news is mileage is creeping up from 6 to almost 9 in mostly city driving. Off line response getting better too.

Temp guage sensor went awol on Thursday. New sensor ordered.

A/C blowing cold but Freon level just a hair low as that tiny leak finally vented enough out to become noticeable. Front of compressor fitting is the source but I’ll need to have a full charge of r12 on hand before I tackle that issue. This is an RV2 issue I’ve dealt with before. PIA...

Cruise control still inop but getting closer.

 

[commando1]

but not perfect... yet.

 

[Duncan]

I think your gas mileage should improve even more/should be better. When finally I got the LeanBurn system on my 78 LeBaron working right, my mileage was in - or near - the 20s with it reaching as high as 25 mpg (that was at 70 mph with the ac going). Granted, that was with a LB on a 318 but I would think the system would/should still get in the mid-teens on a 440. Hoping for the best, anyway.

 

[73 T&C]

I think your gas mileage should improve even more/should be better. When finally I got the LeanBurn system on my 78 LeBaron working right, my mileage was in - or near - the 20s with it reaching as high as 25 mpg (that was at 70 mph with the ac going). Granted, that was with a LB on a 318 but I would think the system would/should still get in the mid-teens on a 440. Hoping for the best, anyway.

If I can get it past 10.... I would be impressed.

 

[73 T&C]

New alternator just crapped the bed tonight. Less than 2 weeks in. Very surprised. Little red light went on to tell me. Nice to see it worked at least.

Checked the voltage regulator just to check. Nope... it’s the alternator.

Can’t put out more than 13v with no load. 12.2v with lights and A/C all on. Crap!

I’ve got a dead spare I use to trade in while I wait for it to cool off. Got to dig it out now.

 

[LeBaron1973]

Gee, there's always something- hope all is back to normal soon.

 

[73 T&C]

Gee, there's always something- hope all is back to normal soon.

And that’s why it’s called a shake down... just driving it in and around town until I feel secure it won’t leave me.

 

[cantflip]

Plan B is always a AAA tow to secure storage and alternate transportation. Old stuff, scarce parts and lack of faith in somebody else touching my toys... Plan B isn't so bad once you've settled into the idea.

 

[73 T&C]

Just for the record, the alternator/charging guage warning light (LED) goes on at a drop to 12.4v or below in the system.

At least in this car.

Your results may vary.

 

[73 T&C]

Plan B is always a AAA tow to secure storage and alternate transportation. Old stuff, scarce parts and lack of faith in somebody else touching my toys... Plan B isn't so bad once you've settled into the idea.

That has always been plan B for me. Luckily I’ve only had to use the Hagerty towing benefit once.... when I accidentally ran out of gas in the wagon. My fault I fear. mis-judged the reserve.

 

[73 T&C]

New fuel lines goin in....

 

[73 T&C]

New sender brought new bad news. She’s running warm to hot. This is with only 82 degrees outside. She also warms up very quickly. Not that a quick warm up is a bad thing. Observed the needle climb and stall as the thermostat opened up about the 1/3 mark of normal range where it should have stayed. Needle then continued up to where you see it here.

The fan shroud also has quite the gap 3/4” at the top as if it was meant for a larger top tank. The sides are nice and tight. Will check the bottom to see if it has the same gap.

Need to check the part number on the radiator and also see if there was a towing package/optional radiator with 3 row core.

I’ve already installed a new thermostat, a new fan clutch, all new hoses and re-cored the 2 row radiator.

Trying to keep it stock but I’m running out of options. Last option remaining is to fill the gap at the top of the shroud (and possibly the bottom) to see if it makes any difference.

 

[Ripinator]

New sender brought new bad news. She’s running warm to hot. This is with only 82 degrees outside. She also warms up very quickly. Not that a quick warm up is a bad thing. Observed the needle climb and stall as the thermostat opened up about the 1/3 mark of normal range where it should have stayed. Needle then continued up to where you see it here.

View attachment 200855

The fan shroud also has quite the gap 3/4” at the top as if it was meant for a larger top tank. The sides are nice and tight. Will check the bottom to see if it has the same gap.


View attachment 200854

Need to check the part number on the radiator and also see if there was a towing package/optional radiator with 3 row core.

View attachment 200853

I’ve already installed a new thermostat, a new fan clutch, all new hoses and re-cored the 2 row radiator.

Trying to keep it stock but I’m running out of options. Last option remaining is to fill the gap at the top of the shroud (and possibly the bottom) to see if it makes any difference.

What the hell happened?!? Didn't you recently drive this car to Key West and back?

 

[73 T&C]

What the hell happened?!? Didn't you recently drive this car to Key West and back?

No. I only drove to Key Largo ( about 50 miles and mostly Hwy) with old temp sensor before it gave up the ghost. Old sensor was misreading the temp before it finaliy died.

Drove it to get some non-ethanol gas yesterday evening and to look closely at the warm up temp cycle with new sensor. Although light did not come on during the drive to get gas (about 5 miles), the light was on after fill-up and 10 minutes of heat soak. Cooling sister also burned up scLding coolant into the recovery tank.... no bueno.
She’s definitely running hotter than she should.

Unfortunately, my laser thermometer is in the shop and I can’t get to it till Monday. I will be trying some foam in the gap (3/4” between the shroud and top tank and check for same on bottom tank) to see if it has any effect for today. Plan on doing a little math to see what the numbers are: gap area vs rad cooling are... etc.

Checking also the off idle timing and rpm, confirming if it is still as I left it. As well as rounding up the usual suspects.